Picco 67 assembly question

[Jesse Carlton]

Good morning everyone! I'm new to the Picco (.67 Bluehead EXR), in the process of a rebuild and I've got a question. In looking at the drum, there are two slots. which of these should the crank be engaged in? I don't think having the timing 180 out would be a good idea!

Thanks for the help!

Jesse

 

[FloridaScaleBoater]

Use the slot that would be opening the drum, while piston is moving upwards in the sleeve.

The upward movement of the piston drawns a vacuum in the lower case, which in-turn draws fuel through the intake.

Hope that makes sence.

 

[Jesse Carlton]

Thanks for the quick and speedy response. That was what I was thinking....but did not want to error! I'm trying not to add a motor to the X-mas list! LOL!

 

[FloridaScaleBoater]

Thanks for the quick and speedy response. That was what I was thinking....but did not want to error! I'm trying not to add a motor to the X-mas list! LOL!

Remember the oil hole in the lower rod faces the intake track also

 

[Jesse Carlton]

Yep....bought a titan rod from Brad....easy on that since it needs to say Titan when I look inside...lol!

 

[Terry Keeley]

And the closed end of the wrist pin should be facing the exhaust.

 

[ChrisCapaldi]

Jesse, Another thing to pay attention to is the how the crank pin / bottom end of the rod butt up against each other. The crank should have a radius (some of the earlier ones don't) and the rod bushing should be chamfered to match it without binding. Once you have that set correctly you will be much less inclined to spun rod bearings / rod failure.

Chris

 

[Jesse Carlton]

Terry and Chris....thanks for the additional tips, I will make sure that everything matches this info....it is greatly appreciated! Any suggestions on assembly lubrication or any other additional tips? Thanks again guys!

 

[Joe Warren]

The Correct drive pin hole location is the One Closest to the Intake Opening in the drum. :huh:

 

[Terry Keeley]

Terry and Chris....thanks for the additional tips, I will make sure that everything matches this info....it is greatly appreciated! Any suggestions on assembly lubrication or any other additional tips? Thanks again guys!

Are the bearings out? RU replacing them?

If so make sure the new ones are fully seated in the case. After mounting the bearings with the case still warm pull the crank and using an aluminum plug that contacts the outer race gently tap the bearings to be sure they're seated. You could also use a socket that's the same O/D as the bearing's outer race. Then assemble the crank, flywheel and collet while it's still warm, make sure there's a little end play in the crank (that's the clearance in the front bearing) and that it's absolutely free. Let it cool on it's own and make sure it still has end play and it's still free.

I like to assemble everything dry so there's no oil drag, then oil it up after it cools. I use a light spindle oil but almost any light oil will do. Apparently WD40 in the can has moisture so I wouldn't use that for long term storage.

 

[Jesse Carlton]

Joe - Thanks for keeping it basic for me, I tend to over think things from time to time!

Terry.....Yep, bearings were replaced too. Made sure to assemble it all while still warm and everything seems smooth and correct. Thanks to everyone for their help and guidance on this.