Octura Props

[Rick Doane]

Does anyone know the alloy number for these props?

Thanks......Rick

 

[Terry Keeley]

Does anyone know the alloy number for these props?

Thanks......Rick

Yup, 21C (C82510), here's heat treat info if that's what you're after:

http://www.brushwellman.com/alloy/tech_lit/AT0015_0295.pdf

 

[Rick Doane]

Does anyone know the alloy number for these props?

Thanks......Rick

Yup, 21C (C82510), here's heat treat info if that's what you're after:

http://www.brushwellman.com/alloy/tech_lit/AT0015_0295.pdf

Thank you Mr. Terry. I have seen that data before. I just did not know what the cast alloy was. Are those similiar numbers to what you use?

 

[Terry Keeley]

Yup, exactly what I use.

What I've found works best is to take the rough cast prop, heat to 1450F for 15 mins or so, water quench. The prop is now soft and easy to sharpen/balance/bend on.

To harden I go 625F for 3 hrs or so and turn the oven off for a slow cool, this way you get rid of any scale and nasties from the 1st step.

You'll notice the prop now has a nice "ring" to it, and don't try to bend it after that! :blink:

Another way I learned from Gary Preusse that works well is to heat the prop with a torch in a dark room, get it an even dull red and quench. Then put it in your kitchen oven and run the clean cycle, the missus will think you're tryin' to help! :lol:

 

[bzubee]

Walt Barney and I were just talking about that Terry an dthe use of the dish washer, plus I told him about using the food saver 'Vacum storage' Kitchen appliances work well for hobby stuff.

Yup, exactly what I use.

What I've found works best is to take the rough cast prop, heat to 1450F for 15 mins or so, water quench. The prop is now soft and easy to sharpen/balance/bend on.

To harden I go 625F for 3 hrs or so and turn the oven off for a slow cool, this way you get rid of any scale and nasties from the 1st step.

You'll notice the prop now has a nice "ring" to it, and don't try to bend it after that! :blink:

Another way I learned from Gary Preusse that works well is to heat the prop with a torch in a dark room, get it an even dull red and quench. Then put it in your kitchen oven and run the clean cycle, the missus will think you're tryin' to help! :lol:

 

[Rick Doane]

Yup, exactly what I use.

What I've found works best is to take the rough cast prop, heat to 1450F for 15 mins or so, water quench. The prop is now soft and easy to sharpen/balance/bend on.

To harden I go 625F for 3 hrs or so and turn the oven off for a slow cool, this way you get rid of any scale and nasties from the 1st step.

You'll notice the prop now has a nice "ring" to it, and don't try to bend it after that! :blink:

Another way I learned from Gary Preusse that works well is to heat the prop with a torch in a dark room, get it an even dull red and quench. Then put it in your kitchen oven and run the clean cycle, the missus will think you're tryin' to help! :lol:

A couple of more questions.....I have tried 1200F for one hour and is softens fairly well. In fact, I took an ugly twisted one that I have had for about 25 years and was able to straighten it very easily. I could not even tell where is was bent before. Wish I took pictures. Anyway, the question is does it get softer at 1450F? And, can you reheat, after hardening, to the solution annealling temp again and rework the prop?

 

[Terry Keeley]

Yup, exactly what I use.

What I've found works best is to take the rough cast prop, heat to 1450F for 15 mins or so, water quench. The prop is now soft and easy to sharpen/balance/bend on.

To harden I go 625F for 3 hrs or so and turn the oven off for a slow cool, this way you get rid of any scale and nasties from the 1st step.

You'll notice the prop now has a nice "ring" to it, and don't try to bend it after that! :blink:

Another way I learned from Gary Preusse that works well is to heat the prop with a torch in a dark room, get it an even dull red and quench. Then put it in your kitchen oven and run the clean cycle, the missus will think you're tryin' to help! :lol:

A couple of more questions.....I have tried 1200F for one hour and is softens fairly well. In fact, I took an ugly twisted one that I have had for about 25 years and was able to straighten it very easily. I could not even tell where is was bent before. Wish I took pictures. Anyway, the question is does it get softer at 1450F? And, can you reheat, after hardening, to the solution annealling temp again and rework the prop?

Never tried anything less than 1450F in my kiln 'cause that's what's recommended, I guess when heated with a torch you prolly end up with something less, maybe that's why they're not quite as hard done that way.

Yup, you can heat, quench, work and harden, in fact I used to bring a toaster oven to the record trials in case I wanted to bend on a wheel in the motel room. :lol:

A lot of guys overlook this for some reason, you can get your props real thin and sharp and they keep a nice edge!

 

[Rick Doane]

Yup, exactly what I use.

What I've found works best is to take the rough cast prop, heat to 1450F for 15 mins or so, water quench. The prop is now soft and easy to sharpen/balance/bend on.

To harden I go 625F for 3 hrs or so and turn the oven off for a slow cool, this way you get rid of any scale and nasties from the 1st step.

You'll notice the prop now has a nice "ring" to it, and don't try to bend it after that! :blink:

Another way I learned from Gary Preusse that works well is to heat the prop with a torch in a dark room, get it an even dull red and quench. Then put it in your kitchen oven and run the clean cycle, the missus will think you're tryin' to help! :lol:

A couple of more questions.....I have tried 1200F for one hour and is softens fairly well. In fact, I took an ugly twisted one that I have had for about 25 years and was able to straighten it very easily. I could not even tell where is was bent before. Wish I took pictures. Anyway, the question is does it get softer at 1450F? And, can you reheat, after hardening, to the solution annealling temp again and rework the prop?

Never tried anything less than 1450F in my kiln 'cause that's what's recommended, I guess when heated with a torch you prolly end up with something less, maybe that's why they're not quite as hard done that way.

Yup, you can heat, quench, work and harden, in fact I used to bring a toaster oven to the record trials in case I wanted to bend on a wheel in the motel room. :lol:

A lot of guys overlook this for some reason, you can get your props real thin and sharp and they keep a nice edge!

Thanks again Terry. Thin props are the best. They have to be hard though.

 

[Terry Keeley]

Yup, before I caught on to this I'd notice one of my boats acting goofy all of a sudden, couldn't find anything wrong until I looked at the prop on a pitch gauge.