MUTT II

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Drew Hamilton

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 13, 2003
Messages
52
I am trying my best to get the right set up, but how do you guys keep these hulls on the water? It is the new all fiberglass hull, has Mike Hughs hardware. When I built it, I did my best to keep all the weight in front. Complete boat, ready to run and painted weighs 7lb 10oz.. Balance point now is about 1'' behind sponsons. I have played with strut depths, and negative angles, X series and 14 series props, likes the 1455 best. I just can't seem to keep it from blowing off! And this is with the fuel tanks full! Any ideas? Do I start hanging weights on the front? Thank you for your help, Drew
 
Hi Drew,

With the CG an inch behind the transom the only thing I can think of is the strut needs to be deeper. I've only had one sport hydro I couldn't keep on the water and it was simply overpowered for it's size. On that one I did try putting an air dam under the hull to break the air flow, it worked but it's not an ideal fix. What you do is take some electrical tape and build a dam across the tunnel floor right at the sponson transom. I ended up with a dam that was (are you sitting down :rolleyes: ) an 1/8th inch above the ride surface of the sponson. The boat was still fast and could win races but like I said, it wasn't the best fix.

Paul.
 
Drew,

1455/3 and add weight to the front canoes. Mine is trimmed out 9 ozs on the

right side and 5 ozs on the left side. I have a older wood version so maybe

things are different on yours. I know a few people that could never get the

boat to stay on the water for 6 laps, and they gave up on it. Patience will pay-

off with this boat,but it does like to fly. I think the designer is an avid airplane

enthusiast also. :) I would contact Mark about your troubles,he will tell you how

to fix it.

Good Luck Testing,

Mark Sholund
 
Drew,

You need to change that strut over to the extended Speed Master strut. Did you do that? The strut Alfred gave you will drag the boat back causing resistant thus make the boat blow over. Something on that line. :wacko:
 
What Mike and Paul said

But ooooh noooo dont hear what the pit man said

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
 
Is this Alfred's old boat? Thats the problem. :blink: He never listen to what we say. We even help him at nats and he still wanted to do his own thing. Give Mark a gingle. He'll point you in the right direction.

[email protected]

Mike
 
Rodney :eek: the extended( long) speedmaster strut is not allow for Sport 40 follow new rule by Namba must use standard strut and drive dog ( rear end transon) :( I dont know Why!! :ph34r: maybe cheat quick fast??? ..Allan
 
Allan,

I have to go through my rule book, but I'm not talking about an extended strut off the rear transom but under the deck. If you can't use the extended strut is that the same rule for scale?
 
Mike Hughes said:
Is this Alfred's old boat? Thats the problem. :blink:   He never listen to what we say.  We even help him at nats and he still wanted to do his own thing. Give Mark a gingle. He'll point you in the right [email protected]

Mike

92896[/snapback]

:lol: ROTMFLOL :lol: :lol:
 
Mike!! Tell me more about this air ****. What is Marks phone number. The strut has been modified. I totaly rebuilt the boat!!
 
Hi Rodney! I don't race namba, but the drive dog can not be behind rear transom. The strut he had on the boat is metal. It is round bodied with a thin blade, and was set up for square drive. I removed the needle bushings and made a plug to press inside. I ran the stuffing tube straight through and use the Speed Master type bushing. Then I machined the front so it tapers down to the stuffing tube. It is preaty stream lined, can't realy see this causing much drag.

Mike and Mark, I wondered about the lead weight AIR DAM idea. I guess that is the next step with this boat. The first outing with the boat was to break the new engine in alittle, had some fuel problems but still got some run time with 2 blade props. Fixed the fuel problem and took it out again with a 1455 3/blade. Needle was close and Holy S---, the thing was a rocket! Made it about 3/4 of a lap before----well you know. So I was trying two blades to slow it down alittle and to try to get the set up.

Allan, thank you also for replying. If I forgot anyone, sorry. Thank you all for the replys! Drew
 
re: air dams.

Let me see if this pic will post. If not send me an e mail, I will send it to you.

Bill
 
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Here is a little hint. Mark runs the lead air dam. Run the 3 blade. It will help keep the rear end of the boat up which in turn will keep you from blowing off.

Mike
 
Drew, Please follow Marks instructions! Take a look at the credentials of the guys that are giving you data. First off do they even have a Mutt II, then how many District races, series, Nationals... Have they won with the boat? IF YOU SET THE BOAT UP BY THE BOOK IT WILL WIN!!! If you need a set of Mark's instructions drop him an email. The boats Mark and I have been so successful with are set up by the book. For gosh sakes get a prop that Mark has done for that hull from Mark make sure he knows what motor you are using. That hull was designed around that prop. I have been driving for Mark since he made his first generation hulls. I have been contacted by so many people that complain about the boat blowing off and when I ask if they followed the setup instructions to the letter they tell my something like "That can't work" or "I didn't do that because the boat will be to heavy"... If you set it up by the book it will work . Leave out just one of the "recommended" setup instructions and it will most likely not. Neither Mark or I keep anything on what we do with that hull to ourselves so please follow the instructions. By the way Mr. Lanza would not listen and I never did see his boat run worth a darn and that includes when we whooped up on him at last years NAMBA nats. :eek:
 
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Drew

The air **** is just a line of lead weights that run across the underside of the air trap.

Mike
 

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