JAE.21 FE pulling to the right

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riggerman

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2003
Messages
361
Hi all im running a JAE. 21 FE im noticing running down the strait away's the hull wants to pull to the right and i have to use left rudder to correct the situation not what i expect for an outrigger! #1 i checked sponson distance for being parralell to the tub everything is 110 % for being paralell. #2 the rudder is set perfectly strait. #3 i put a 2' srait edge ruler against the turn fin and its paralell to the sponson and tub. The only Zippkits hardware left on this hull is the rudder and the 3/32'' aluminum turn fin. Could the problem be within the turn fin? A friend mentioned there is an after market upgrade turn fin. Where can i buy one? what else could cause the JAE to pull to the right? Regards Andris Golts.
 
How much left rudder do you need? I always set my rudder so that the right side of the rudder is parallel with the tub. This makes it look like there is left steering input, but there is no extra drag added.
 
What motor is it set up for P class or P limited. Mine was pulling very bad when I switch from P limited to P prop walked bad. Figured out I need a bigger boat to run P class.
 
Is the strut off setted to on side an straight. Also is it flexing Under a load.
 
razor sharp turn fin.. BLEND/feather it to make the edge... razor sharp propellor... blended as well... razor sharp rudder same deal... i've toed a pair of them to date and this solves the issue but I've then encountered the hull "crabbing" a touch and i dont like that either... work on it... itll come in.... 'luck... mike
 
Rudder depth is key on these hulls, if not deep enough it will pull right, especially under acceleration.
 
Hi Andris we have to know what motor, batt and prop is in your boat.....overpower use to overveer the Jae 21.I built one using a Leopard motor 4082 2000kv on 6s that took me sometime to learn how to accelerate this boat.Yes a little toe in in the right sponson will help also an offset in the strut too....well tuned this boat can be really fun......https://youtu.be/ym0vOQDDbIc

Gill
 
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Thanks to all for the excellent replies to my post.Ken i installed a Speedmaster .21 hydro strut to replace the Z-21 strut that came with the hardware kit The Speedmaster has no flex im using the original Zippkits rudder which has a lot off wobble in it i wonder if this may be a problem ?Gil the motor is Leopard 3674 1900 kv on 4s 5000 mah lipo and 150 amp esc. Regards Andris Golts.
 
All my P-Limited JAE's ran straight as an arrow but when I made a full P powered version I had a pulling problem. Spent a whole day with John Finch playing with toe in, twisting the strut and different rudders sizes and extensions.. The only thing that worked was offsetting the tub 3/8" toward the right sponson. The boat runs straight and turns on a dime. There is nothing wrong with the Zippkits turn fin. Just make sure it's really sharp and the leading edge is tapered back. I'm also using the Speedmaster Mini rudder. A larger rudder just slowed down the boat.
 
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How much input on the wheel or stick do you have to apply to keep straight when running .

After you run apply same input an look at rudder whats it showing.

If more than 1/8 someing not square

If less can be play in drive shaft on or rudder

Also offset drive line is a must on boats that show alot of tork as i mentioned in early post.an mentioned in post above by Chilli.

Ken
 
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I have to ask again even though it was asked above. What prop are you turning? Does it still have the tongue? I know this may sound simple, but often the simplest things are the culpret.
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Ben... what are your measurements prop and rudder etc... ie: if, the rudder leading edge is too close to the propellor the force of the propwash may be forcing the rudder... the servo is holding against the force of the boat harder the faster it goes and the thrust coming off the propellor doesnt help... i can.. measure my old boat for you as i switched to speedmaster strut... and rudder... anyway also.. what servo and linkage do you have set up in there?.... i could be wrong but....... had me an oval boat once.... itd do the course without touching the wheel.... luck... mike
 
Ben... what are your measurements prop and rudder etc... ie: if, the rudder leading edge is too close to the propellor the force of the propwash may be forcing the rudder... the servo is holding against the force of the boat harder the faster it goes and the thrust coming off the propellor doesnt help... i can.. measure my old boat for you as i switched to speedmaster strut... and rudder... anyway also.. what servo and linkage do you have set up in there?.... i could be wrong but....... had me an oval boat once.... itd do the course without touching the wheel.... luck... mike
Note: To avoid confusion, Mike's inquiry is for Andris to answer as the owner of the thread.
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Andris an easy solution to the Zipp rudder is use a 1/8" brass tube that works like a bushing to get rid of the wobble.A drill press can do this task.Good boating Gill
 
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