Good Batteries?

[mitaccio]

I just bought some Panasonic NiMH 3000mAH batteries from my local shop. They say they are the best thing out there. (I hope they told me the truth.) They were never matched and I don't know what that means. Do they need to be matched, or can I just use them and let time match them for me? Any ideas what would be good to do with them?

 

[sjslhill]

They lied....but these will work okay for you. Remember to store them with some charge.

I'd run them in stock motor classes for longer runs. Modified motors will make them lose capacity.

thanks

Steve

 

[Pagemaster]

Mitaccio, what are you using them for? If its not stock racing like Steve H said I wouldn't bother matching them.

Steven Vaccaro

www.OffshoreElectrics.com

 

[mitaccio]

I have a rigger that I bought from Climat Boatworks, the Blizzard. It's for fun mainly, no racing, speed is always good though. Also, why should I keep some charge in the batteries? I thought that NiMH batteries were free of memory.

 

[sjslhill]

Because NIMH cells die when stored without charge in them. Memory has nothing to do with it. Next time buy some GP3300 cells or HRSC 2600 cells.

thaknks

Steve

www.battlepack.com

I have a rigger that I bought from Climat Boatworks, the Blizzard. It's for fun mainly, no racing, speed is always good though. Also, why should I keep some charge in the batteries? I thought that NiMH batteries were free of memory.

 

[rcrdps]

Steve. What do you recomment for storing nicads? After you discharge to the .9 cutoff, do you leave them at that, or do you then discharge them slowly till they're dead? I used to do the slow discharge afterwards(<1 amp), but I remember you mentioning to discharge them like you run them, so that's what I do now. Lately I just discharge to .9 cutoff and store them like that. Is that fine?

Gene

 

[drobie]

I have a rigger that I bought from Climat Boatworks, the Blizzard. It's for fun mainly, no racing, speed is always good though. Also, why should I keep some charge in the batteries? I thought that NiMH batteries were free of memory.

Steve is being modest and humble and responsibly not tooting his own horn, so I will. Buy your batteries from him at www.battlepack.com. Consistently one of if not the best value in batteries out there.

As for matching, no one seemed to answer your question so I will.

Simply put, a pack is only as good as its worst cell. Chemistry can vary among them. Matching involves taking individual cells and running them through several charge and discharge cycles and monitoring the results. Cells with essentially equal numbers are then sold and/or assembled together.

The data that is monitored is voltage, run time and internal resistance.

Word has it that (and Steve might confirm this) that cases of GP cells are shipping with lots of good quality cells.

Matched cells cost considerably more because of the labor involved in matching them. You can buy single unmatched cells for 5-$6 each. Matched cells can sell for as high as $12 a piece although you'll get a much better value than that from Steve.

Am I a satisfied Battlepack customer? You bet!!

 

[sjslhill]

Store Nicads at a discharged state...take them to .9V a cell under load. A 7.2V pack, 5.4V ect.

Steve. What do you recomment for storing nicads? After you discharge to the .9 cutoff, do you leave them at that, or do you then discharge them slowly till they're dead? I used to do the slow discharge afterwards(<1 amp), but I remember you mentioning to discharge them like you run them, so that's what I do now. Lately I just discharge to .9 cutoff and store them like that. Is that fine?

Gene

 

[rcrdps]

discharged,,........ meaning all the way down? You say down to .9v under a load. Would that be considered all the way down, or should I do the slow discharge after that?

 

[sjslhill]

Discharge them to .9 under load and your done. That's my opinion.

thanks

Steve

 

[rcrdps]

Cool. Thanks.

Gene