FUTABA USA

Intlwaters

Help Support Intlwaters:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Rich,
Anytime the servo is being called to go somewhere it doesn't have the power to move to or even hesitates even momentarily anywhere along the travel or even loaded to point where motor isn't able to run at full rpm. The motor is being fed juice to go but it can't go so it doesn't move and the locked rotor or stalled servo occurs. When this happens the amp draw goes through the roof and you have very close to a dead short at the motor wires. This heats everything up really fast and the load is more than the electronics were ever designed for and it smokes the servo. Often it is a part on the board callled the amplifier that releases the majic smoke but when they lock up any part including he motor is suseptible to being fried. If it doesn't move for a few seconds that is all it takes.
K makes sense. Thanks. So, for instance, if you don’t set your end points and you are cranking the servo full but the throttle setup doesn’t allow further movement.
 
Rich, The very basics of this are EPA (End Point Adjustment)

One never wants to allow the servo to continue to attempt to move IF a mechanical stop dictates the end of the travel.

Just use the EPA to adjust the end of the servos travel.

Grim
 
K makes sense. Thanks. So, for instance, if you don’t set your end points and you are cranking the servo full but the throttle setup doesn’t allow further movement.

Yes exactly. We do not have the issue usually with the channel 1 steering servo as we are usually backing the throw way back (in order to drive it)from where they would be stopped mechanically unless like say a battery shifts somehow and the servo horn locks against it.

Usually it is the throttle or remote needle that needs the end points correct and the throttle you have to set the braking end point as well.

When they flip if you have your failsafe set it will go where ever you set it too. Just make for certain there is no strain during full backtrigger because that is how many get smoked.

The radios that will bind to more than one receiver per model number you have to be certain you have shut off the boat you were on before changing models. Wrong model number will tell other boat to go where it can't most often.

Lots of scenarios to fry a servo or everything as when servo fails often it is a dead short. This can get everything in the box.
 
that is a darn good little unit for sure... (was my work grunt radio before T-FHSS came on board)

7PX for me and the 324RX are my favorite!

Grim
 
LOL my favorite radio when I raced nitro,,, 3 EGX lol S31 servos 3rd channel, I wish I would of saw Terry's sale he had a mint 2.4 , EGX I still use sticks
 
I like sticks for hydros but have not used one in a few years now.. the older systems like that are cool but one model memory.. not for me! (I got to much junk!) LOL

Grim
 
I needed a transmitter box for few of my TXs and decided to try this one

https://futabausa.com/product/ubb1220/

Seemed unconventional and the interior parts.. just how is that going to work?

I struggled with the use of the factory divider but could have made that work. It had one smaller chunk of convoluted foam that is nice but.. I was like. this is a nice size box.. what can I do with it.

Sleeping on it I got up thinking.. hoping they will fit.. I will stand them on there fronts!..

BINGO!

I drew up and laser cut speaker foam to hold them in place.. the cover has convoluted foam on it at just the right size to "pinch" the transmitters and hold them in place beautifully.

I LIKE IT ALOT!

Grim... 20240308_062948 (Medium).jpg20240308_062955 (Medium).jpg


Adding to this.. is a clip on shoulder strap.. I wont use it all the time but will be nice when making those long walks to the hot pits with a starting box in one hand and a boat in the other..
 
Last edited:
I picked up one of these as well. I am hoping that I can get 2 stick style transmitters in. Fingers crossed.
 
Back
Top