finishing resin

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john schultheis

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2011
Messages
708
hi just wondering if anyone has used great planes or z poxy finishing resin i'm kinda new to building so i need a good easy to use finishing resin to seal the hull on my jae 21 and also is this stuff water proof or does it need to be painted thanks
 
hi just wondering if anyone has used great planes or z poxy finishing resin i'm kinda new to building so i need a good easy to use finishing resin to seal the hull on my jae 21 and also is this stuff water proof or does it need to be painted thanks
I have used Z-Poxy in the past and was pleased with the results, but I prefer West Systems now. To get a really smooth finish I sand the first coat to knock down the raised grain of the wood and then apply a second finish coat. Always try the product on a scrap piece of the same wood your hull is made from FIRST to see how it reacts. If you follow the manufacturer's directions, you are probably going to be ok. As long as you coat all the surfaces evenly, it isn't necessary to paint over the resin for waterproofing.
 
Z-poxy works great, what I use exclusively. thin 50% with de-natured alky and apply in three thin coats, 180 sand between coats, prep with 200 prior to paint or clearcoat. you can speed cure time by setting up in the back of a truck with a bed shell in the sun! 120 deg ambient will cure it in 40 to 50 minutes

good luck

gh
 
Use the Z-Poxy on this boat, and then on your next one use West Systems 105 resin with 206 hardener. You will think back and wish you used West Systems with this project. It goes on easy and sands out beautifully. It has a longer application time allowing it to permeate the wood for the best seal. Make sure you get the pump set with it. It's an extra 15 bucks or so, but well worth it. It pumps the exact 5 to 1 ratio of resin to hardener for the perfect cure.
 
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Z-poxy works great, what I use exclusively. thin 50% with de-natured alky and apply in three thin coats, 180 sand between coats, prep with 200 prior to paint or clearcoat. you can speed cure time by setting up in the back of a truck with a bed shell in the sun! 120 deg ambient will cure it in 40 to 50 minutes

good luck

gh
I have used Greg's system and it comes out perfect.
 
Mas all the way. Put on rub off what didn't soak in about 20 minutes later. Let dry scuff with scotch pad and put second coat on. Good to go!

Nothing sands like Mas, no blushing either.

TL
 
I have been experimenting with West with the 206 hardener and also the Z-Poxy. The 206 is clear and gives the wood a slightly yellow color...the Z-Poxy is amber and gives an gives a bit darker tint to the wood. One question I have is...how much will they darken over time?

I am in the process of repairing part of the decking of a damaged boat that has a stained and sealed upper deck. It was originally finished with MAS...so I guess I need to know how much that product darkens also.

Thanks, Tim
 
I didn't know about West Systems when I built my .12 hydro, so I used great planes epoxy. It has become increasingly darker over one year. I did my .21 hydro with west systems. I haven't had it long enough to say for sure whether it will darken any more or not. I just liked the application and how easily it sanded. I'm sure the great planes stuff will be fine even if it darkens, but it is too thick to work with. I've tryed thinning it with denatured alcohol, but you get an uneven application. I also heard that doing this changes the chemical bonding properties of the epoxy. One other method that I used to use for a sanding sealer was poly urethane clear coat with micro balloons mixed in. You can apply it with a spray gun. I usually did 2 coats then sanded it completely out to remove the grain, then one final coat before painting. I sanded the final coat with 320 grit before applying color. It doesn't yellow at all, but it is expensive. I used white poly urethane under non white based colors as a base coat. I suppose I could have added micro balloons to white to save a step, but I never tried it.
 
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West system 206 yellows less than Zpoxy. West system 207 stays clear or yellows very little over time.
 
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John,

Do you want a natural wood finish, or are you just looking to seal the wood and don’t care what it looks like.. paint, no paint whatever..



Grim
 
Z-poxy or West Systems both work just fine for sealing and prep before finish.....ive even wet sanded and buffed the last coat of resin instead of shooting a clear coat and was surprised at how nice the finish came out......clear coating after the final sanding is easier and less time consuming though!
 
Ive been using zpoxy for years its fine, but ive been looking for something else just cause I know its something better(clear). Sig-poxy is great and Ive been wanting to try the west systems.Ive even used Devcon 2 ton crytal clear with some denatured alcohol and had excellent results.Devcon wins out coz I can get it at ace hardware. All the others require mail order coz the hobby shops are fading fast here in the triad area. I agree with the poster that said use your z poxy, then when you need to buy new try the west systems, and im sure you will see why the guys like it. If its a wooden boat I intend to paint I lay the zpoxy with a light glass cloth on the first coat then follow with another finish coat.What would be nice is if someone made a spray sealer that would give similar results as a finish epoxy.

Hugh
 
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2 seasons ago i tried something new on my boats. i seal the inside with bob smith finishing epoxy, because it's most hobby shops "store brand", it's inexpensive, & because i can't see inside sponsons and such i trust the strength of epoxy. on the outside i have been using deft brand lacquer based sanding sealer. it's a clear primer/SEALER for wood. goes on like water, soaks in very well & dries for sanding in about 1/2 hr. sands like any normal primer. 2 coats of that, then paint or clear. much easier, quicker & cheaper than epoxy. it's available in 1 qt. cans or spray bombs at lowe's. i've used it on 4 boats with no issues so far, & still have more than 1/2 the can left. any lacquer based paint will work over it & automotive base/clears will also. as a test, i sealed a small peice of plywood with it, submerged it in water for 2 days. came out just like it went in, no water soaked in past it, none of it has discolored either. for those of you that have seen my jae .21, this is how it's finished. used lustercoat clear over it. the can says good up to 25% nitro, but if you let it cure for a couple weeks before exposure to nitro, i use 65% with no issues. costs me about $15 to finish a .21 boat B) ........
 
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