FE interest

[jim shipley]

I've been viewing a lot of good info on this forum about electric boats.

Having been in the Nitro side of it, I'm wanting to get into the FE action.

I need help in getting into it. I would like to run "P" set up in a 21 rigger, need info on motor types, controller, mounts, servos, running hardware, chargers, power supplys.

Would really love to hear from the experts out there.

Look forward to hearing from you.

Sincerely Jim............

 

[Jerry Muro]

Jim if you are looking for all out speed go JAE Rigger you will be amazed at the speed and handling. Jerry even in a P spec

 

[jayt]

Welcome Jim! There is a very wide range of options for a new FE boater. This can be a bit intimidating, it's not just "get a NovaRossi, 60% fuel and a 1645 prop". There are not a lot of FE riggers available, although the JAE seems to be a good choice. There are really two "P" classes for riggers, a growing unofficial "Spec" and non-spec which both operate on 14.8 volts. The former usually runs the motor and speed controller from an AquaCraft UL-1 hydro (available separately), the latter runs almost any brushless motor with a Kv (rpm/volt) around 2000 to 2300. The "Spec" setup will run in the 60s with the right prop, the latter in the 70s - but the cost difference is considerable. The hardware will depend on the hull you choose, but most will use 3/16" flex cables and props.

I recommend that your first FE boat use a "spec" setup. This is still plenty fast, less expensive if you make a mistake (and virtually all new FE boaters do, regardless of how many years they ran nitro), and there is more likelihood of finding other FE boaters to run with. As for chargers, there are too many to list, and you can pay from $30 to $300. While I have owned several different LiPo chargers including high-end products, I still like the basic AstroFlight 109 the best. Simple without a lot of bells and whistles, it is very versatile and easy for even the computer-challenged to operate. The best power supply will depend on how many chargers you want to feed at one time.

I recommend looking at some FE boating sites to learn more. One of the best IMO is http://www.offshoreelectrics.com. There are threads on the JAE rigger setups and a lot of experienced folks to help you. But like any Internet site - be careful who you use as your 'expert' advisers. There are a few folks who seem to know a lot but who in reality do not. Nothing different than here, just be cautious. The very best thing would be to find an FE club near you and visit with them. That way you can actually see a variety of FE boats and their support equipment. The important thing to remember is to have fun!

.

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[D. Newland]

One option for a charger, and you don't need a separate power supply:

Hyperion AC/DC Charger

As Jay mentioned, go the P-Limited (AKA P-Spec) route for power. Use the UL-1 motor and ESC combo, or you can use the UL-1 motor and an after market ESC.

UL-1 Motor/ESC Combo

For batteries, use a 4S Lipo battery, 4200 to 5000 mAh, and 25C + discharge rate for premium packs, 35+C for more economical packs. Something like this is what i consider a premium pack and I've had good luck with the 25C pack, even though they now offer a 35C and 45C pack. The 25C pack is less weight than the others:

Hyperion 25C 4S 5000 mAh Lip

Others are successfully using Turnigy brand lipos for less $$.

For motor mounts, I custom fabricate mine, but this one is purposely built for the JAE .21:

JAE FE motor mount

I wish there were some FE interest in Las Vegas, but I'm not aware of any...NAMBA FE racing that is. Keep asking questions!

 

[lohring]

We just had a great day of racing P spec riggers at the Fourth of July race in Centralia, Washington. It was interesting to compare the P spec boats to the 3.5 hydros. Nearly all the P spec boats finished all four heats while often only one 3.5 hydro was running at the end. Both classes had equal speeds. There were no problems fitting the electric boats into a nitro race series using 7 to 10 amp charge rates. While Brian Buaas' glass hydro design was the most common hull, the day was won by a JAE rigger. Props are the secret, and no one has the final answer with H7, H10, and S15 props all being tried using various cuts and cups.

Lohring Miller

 

[Chilli]

Same results in IMPBA D12. The the P-spec boats so far have run very well with the nitro boats. Speeds are comparible but the FE boats do have a clear advantage when it comes to DNF's. One little growing pain last race. I pulled into the infield a little too quickly after a heat and my buddy was coming out of turn two. He didnt know what I was doing and thought I was going to T-Bone him. He did a evasive manuever and I believe flipped his nitro rigger. I'll be sure to remind participants next race that the FE boats can pull into the infield and also for the FE guys to slow it down after crossing the line and pulling in.

Jim, I'm far from an expert but for a economical, reliable, fast, easy to build, east to set up first FE, I suggest you get yourself a JAE 21 FE kit and hardware from www.zippkits.com and the UL1 motor, water jacket and controller combo from www.offshoreelectrics.com and you'll be well on your way. I prefer the WRP 2.5" motor mount from www.southriverrcboats.com It's pleny strong for the UL1 motor. You just have to make sure you install it before you intall the deck on the tub. Be carefull with prop recommendations. Many are using electronic speed controllers other than the stock UL1 controller and too aggressive a prop could fry it (and the motor for that matter). There is nothing wrong with the newer stock controller with the larger capacitor. It has been proven very reliable and I dont have any problems keeping up with the nitro guys. I have been using the 1450 and H7 props with no issues.