Classic Thunderboat Hydro - Rules - Size issue

[dschigoda]

I noticed that IMPBA will be offering in a new class next year called "Classic Thunderboat Hydro - Specialty Class". (See page 10 of the Sept. Rooster tail for more details). The rules appear to be well thought out, and it sounds like a class I would be interested in running in. But I am curious as to why the minimum hull dimensions are up to 3 inches smaller than the "Classic Thunder Boat" rules set up by the "Gas World Championship Rules of Racing" group? The engine specs appear to be nearly identical (stock < 26 cc, piped). Is there a specific reason why the IMPBA chose to have a smaller minimum size? Or were they just not aware of the other rules?

Dave

 

[Don Ferrette]

I noticed that IMPBA will be offering in a new class next year called "Classic Thunderboat Hydro - Specialty Class". (See page 10 of the Sept. Rooster tail for more details). The rules appear to be well thought out, and it sounds like a class I would be interested in running in. But I am curious as to why the minimum hull dimensions are up to 3 inches smaller than the "Classic Thunder Boat" rules set up by the "Gas World Championship Rules of Racing" group? The engine specs appear to be nearly identical (stock < 26 cc, piped). Is there a specific reason why the IMPBA chose to have a smaller minimum size? Or were they just not aware of the other rules?
Dave

It has nothing to do with being "aware of the other rules". The IMPBA BOD chose to initially start out with the minimum 46" length as there is already at least one boat out there (Zipp Kits Rivett) specifically tailored to these classic thunderboats. It was discussed during the board meeting that it would be unfair to exclude a manufacturer right off the bat for the sake of a couple inches. The Gas World Championship is just one race in Vegas basically structured around NAMBA rules and does not in any way dictate how rules are done except for that race. The IMPBA is the first to officially recognize this new class throughout the entire organization as I believe NAMBA has 2, maybe 3 districts so far recognizing the class but I'm sure that will change. I agree this will be a great class in both organizations in the very near future & since this is a one year trial there is nothing to prevent the rules from being "tweaked" along the way. If a person wants to compete in both organizations then there is nothing stopping them from building a 48" or larger hull. I plan on scratch building one of these this winter & anticipate a 48-49" length as I think any smaller may not trap enough air under it to loosen it up on the water but I may be wrong. Regardless it should be a fun class to compete in without spending a small fortune to do so.

 

[Brian Blazer]

I noticed that IMPBA will be offering in a new class next year called "Classic Thunderboat Hydro - Specialty Class". (See page 10 of the Sept. Rooster tail for more details). The rules appear to be well thought out, and it sounds like a class I would be interested in running in. But I am curious as to why the minimum hull dimensions are up to 3 inches smaller than the "Classic Thunder Boat" rules set up by the "Gas World Championship Rules of Racing" group? The engine specs appear to be nearly identical (stock < 26 cc, piped). Is there a specific reason why the IMPBA chose to have a smaller minimum size? Or were they just not aware of the other rules?
Dave

You have to decide if you are ever going to run in NAMBA. If you aren't, then you are ok with a smaller size. If you might run in NAMBA, then go with the larger size.

 

[dschigoda]

"...building one of these this winter & anticipate a 48-49" length as I think any smaller may not trap enough air under it to loosen it up on the water but I may be wrong. Regardless it should be a fun class to compete in without spending a small fortune to do so.

Don,

Thanks, Yes that makes sense to include existing commerially available hulls. I agree that it appears to be an inexpensive way to race great looking classic hydros. Especially in my case - I'm a re-entering racer - no starter, battery, glow starter, nitro, glow plugs, flow-o-meters, etc.

Maybe someone will start selling 1/7th or 1/6th scale drivers with open face helments and dummy engines soon? [opportunities abound!]

As far as hull size and speed - I suppose we won't know until we try... a larger hull will trap more air and give more lift, but it will also weigh more and have more aerodynamic drag (for a given design). Hmmm... more opportunities to fire up the old brain and experiment! If you went with a "smaller" hull, you may be able to compensate by designing in slightly wider sponson ride-pads. ...but a larger, wider boat should be able to get through the corners faster ...but a smaller, narrower boat could achieve a higher top speed...

And Brian - yes, that occured to me too. For a near endless "do-loop"...see the paragraph above! :lol:

Thanks guys!

Dave

 

[eddieh]

Maybe someone will start selling 1/7th or 1/6th scale drivers with open face helments and dummy engines soon? [opportunities abound!]

Dave, I will be making 1/6th scale drivers, I have been appoached by a few guys, and I need to make them for my 1/6th cracker box anyway, They will not be full bodied, but the usual from the waist up, casting resin/casting foam, should be ok..... the first ones asked for were mid 60's/70's drivers, and then I guess I could make a full face from there if it's required..... I already made a 1/6th kneel down driver for a friend, for the cambel kit, but he is pretty much good for only that boat, here is a pic.... sorry it is from another forum where I am a Mod.....

more pics here

http://www.rumrunnerracing.com/feforums/ph...&ppuser=141

Tom/Don I hope this is all right, no offense meant...................

 

[Don Ferrette]

Maybe someone will start selling 1/7th or 1/6th scale drivers with open face helments and dummy engines soon? [opportunities abound!]

Dave, I will be making 1/6th scale drivers, I have been appoached by a few guys, and I need to make them for my 1/6th cracker box anyway, They will not be full bodied, but the usual from the waist up, casting resin/casting foam, should be ok..... the first ones asked for were mid 60's/70's drivers, and then I guess I could make a full face from there if it's required..... I already made a 1/6th kneel down driver for a friend, for the cambel kit, but he is pretty much good for only that boat, here is a pic.... sorry it is from another forum where I am a Mod.....

more pics here

http://www.rumrunnerracing.com/feforums/ph...&ppuser=141

Tom/Don I hope this is all right, no offense meant...................

Not at all, this is way cool, we need some 1/7th-ish scale early 60's style drivers like that. B)

 

[eddieh]

Don Thank you, ok so 50's and 60's drivers in 1/7th to 1/6th... something like this is what I would do.... and then the regular visored 60's early 70's open faced helmet these pics are of the 1/10th scales I have been making, and I also make them in 1/8th, I'll get busy for the 1/6th ones too......

 

[Don Ferrette]

Don Thank you, ok so 50's and 60's drivers in 1/7th to 1/6th... something like this is what I would do.... and then the regular visored 60's early 70's open faced helmet these pics are of the 1/10th scales I have been making, and I also make them in 1/8th, I'll get busy for the 1/6th ones too......

That second pic of the goggled driver is the shiznit!!! PERFECT style for the classic T-boats!! Can you do the cockpit liners as well? How about even the whole cowling section like in the pic? That Merlin rocks too!! Sure would make scratch building these big T-Boats alot easier!

 

[eddieh]

Don Thank you, ok so 50's and 60's drivers in 1/7th to 1/6th... something like this is what I would do.... and then the regular visored 60's early 70's open faced helmet these pics are of the 1/10th scales I have been making, and I also make them in 1/8th, I'll get busy for the 1/6th ones too......

That second pic of the goggled driver is the shiznit!!! PERFECT style for the classic T-boats!! Can you do the cockpit liners as well? How about even the whole cowling section like in the pic? That Merlin rocks too!! Sure would make scratch building these big T-Boats alot easier!

Don the liner wouldn't be hard, but what size and shape??? I could do the seat back as well... as for the cowl well I do not do F/G I have talked with Mike McKnight about gauge decals for a generic dash for 1/8th scale that could be cast, decals applied and vacuformed bezels installed but I have not made much progress, I do know that you could probably get a motor in that scale from Pete Stenke he has a website at http://www.lousfastrc.com/ModelDevelopment.htm

I am definately making the driver so I'll keep you guys posted.... what is cool is that the drivers are big enough that if you had a demented mind like mine you could actually have a servo inside the body and his head would turn with the same input for the rudder LOL.... I know sick.....

anyway I'll see what can be done... anybody have suggestions feel free to send me an email at [email protected]

c-ya fellas...

 

[Don Ferrette]

Don the liner wouldn't be hard, but what size and shape???

I'll hopefully should know more once my plans arrive from Roger & I get them scaled up.

 

[dschigoda]

I really like that second driver too.

On that driver, you could ALSO rig up a linkage from the rudder servo to the steering wheel, glue the drivers hands to the wheel, and it would look like he's driving the boat, while he's looking into the turns!

Dave

 

[eddieh]

I really like that second driver too.
On that driver, you could ALSO rig up a linkage from the rudder servo to the steering wheel, glue the drivers hands to the wheel, and it would look like he's driving the boat, while he's looking into the turns!

Dave

I like the way you think dave!! hahahahaha your a sick puppy..............