Batteries, what are you using?

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If you voted R/C 2400, would to you like to see people carry these? Maybe Chris Fines or someone does, I am not sure.
 
I'd like to know just how hard the cp1700's can be pulled.......say to where you can get 1v for most of the run? Also 1950's. How many amps does it take to get them down to 1v?

Gene
 
My guess to the question above is maybe 35amps?

Was noticing the 2600 NiMH graphs on your site. Those hold up quite well at high amps for NiMH! Nice and light too. I'm running an 05 right now, so lightness counts more than super high amps. Maybe I will buy some cells soon. My cp1700s are quite old.

Gene
 
For sport running and pushing them pretty hard I have had great success with RC 2400 but would like to know how close the CP2400 are. OR...is the best way to go the 3300 until better cells are avail? I run them in boats and electric trucks.

Also, are the 3300 cells more problems to take care of and do they last?
 
This may help some. This is a graph of pulse loads. These are 10 cell packs of CP-1700 and HR 4/5 1950's. As you can see 40 amps takes the CP1700 to 10 volts a bit quicker than the HR 4/5 1950.

www.battlepack.com/images/1950-CP1700SCR.JPG

I'd like to know just how hard the cp1700's can be pulled.......say to where you can get 1v for most of the run? Also 1950's. How many amps does it take to get them down to 1v?

Gene
 
CP2400's have a lower voltage under load than do R/C 2400's. but, CP2400's will last hundreds of cycles compared to R/C which in our life cycle studies lasted 100 cycles.

GP3300's are the cell to use in R/C boats when you look at the data. You might run HR 4/5 1950's in stock classes and do well with the lower weight.

thanks

Steve

For sport running and pushing them pretty hard I have had great success with RC 2400 but would like to know how close the CP2400 are. OR...is the best way to go the 3300 until better cells are avail? I run them in boats and electric trucks.

Also, are the 3300 cells more problems to take care of and do they last?
 
Nice graphs. Definitely need the larger cells I guess. Those 17s and 19s drop a bit too quick. I'm running a fairly hot modified right now, so I'm probably pulling close to that. Thanks for the info.

Gene
 
I bought six CP2400s from Hills about 3 summers ago - my first batteries I ever bought! I use them regularly in oval racing for N2 mono and hydro. I swap the CP2400s and a 1 year old pack of RC2400s between heats.

I cannot tell the difference in the packs when I am oval racing. Those CPs seem to have lasted quite well.

I follow the debates on cells and I am sure there is a difference in batteries when you are racing at a certain level. For me, the batteries don't make much difference - staying in lane 1 makes a much bigger difference in my racing results ;) .

Cheers RvE
 
If you had several R/C 2400 and CP2400's and tested them, some CP2400's would be better than the R/C 2400's. But in average the R/C 2400 cells will have a higher voltage during discharge. Zapped CP2400's would be better than non zapped R/C 2400's. So there are several varations that could make a CP2400 look really good. I ran CP2400 packs in Batavia in my Red UL sport hydro with an Astro 325. This setup was running with brushless systems at the time.

thanks

Steve

I bought six CP2400s from Hills about 3 summers ago - my first batteries I ever bought! I use them regularly in oval racing for N2 mono and hydro. I swap the CP2400s and a 1 year old pack of RC2400s between heats.

I cannot tell the difference in the packs when I am oval racing. Those CPs seem to have lasted quite well.

I follow the debates on cells and I am sure there is a difference in batteries when you are racing at a certain level. For me, the batteries don't make much difference - staying in lane 1 makes a much bigger difference in my racing results ;) .

Cheers RvE
 

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