Tim...here's what we do with cars we restore...if it's a really thick run, machine sand it down to the point that you can just feel it above the surface use like 600 wet....switch to 600 again but this time on a block and by hand slowly sand off the rest checking your progress [use lots of water it keeps the paper clean/lubricated] until it is level with the rest...now the run is fixed but you still have all the scratches...
So out comes the 800 wet...hand block the conplete hull or the side that is bad till it looks level....go easy and slow...clean everything off with water and let it dry...no comes the fun part..lightly spray the sanded part with shacker can paint [different color than the hull], just dust it....this is called a guide coat...switch to 1000 wet and lightly sand the hull again...the highs will have no paint, the lows will have paint...continue to sand until the lows are gone [or close depending on how bad they are]
Now you can switch to 1500 wet or get out the buffer with some cutting compound and start polishing....once shiny switch to buffing compound and them polish....
The hull will be perfectly straight and as shinny as glass!!! Yes it's a lot of work just like on the cars...paint is rarely perfect until this is done!!!
Two things that are important when spraying clear....it's hard to see how much you are spraying on...so watch for the gloss on the paint to come up and stop and then do another coat
-if you can spray the surfaces flat ei: bottom+dry sides+dry top+last you will have better control...besides your going to wet sand anyways
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