wrist pin clip

[Gary Lauer]

I am rebuilding some nova .3.5's. The bottom line is I am having a terrible time inserting the wrist pin clips. I made a tool from tubing that worked good for used clips but not the new ones. Is there anyone that makes a tool that works? Thanks for ant help.

 

[SayMikey]

I struggle with those clips as well,the last os21 I replaced the piston /sleeve on I ended up using a clic type ball point pen with the guts removed. This helped get it in and it did not marr the piston

 

[Danny King]

On 21 engines I use my finger nail.

 

[Gary Lauer]

I cant use my finger nail, there to short and my thumbs are to fat. The ball point pen sounds interesting, but i cant see how it works.

 

[Wasted wages]

if you can find a pair of medical grade stainless steel hemostats, you can grind to tips down really narrow and they work great holding onto the clips...

I made a pair years ago and they still work fine.

 

[Brian Sorgente]

I use a Frank Orlic wrist pin installation tool, but a tube inside of another tube will work well too. I use a cut off wheel or a file to deburr the end of the clip so it slides down easier. Put it in the hole sideways, then spin it so it sits flat on the rod or tube you're pushing it in with, and then send it home.

Here's a pic of franks tool. Pretty easy to make, just some UHMW, some thumb screws, and a little shaft. I believe frank tapered the hole the clip slides in as well, so it compresses on the way down.

 

[SayMikey]

Took me a bit to figure it out Frank is a genius

 

[Gary Lauer]

I never thought about deburring the end of the clip. I cant grasp how Frank's tool works. and what is UMHW?

 

[Brian Sorgente]

I never thought about deburring the end of the clip. I cant grasp how Frank's tool works. and what is UMHW?

UHMW stands for Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene. Just a soft plastic thats handy for stuff like this.

Heres how it works. The shaft coming out the side is the same diameter as the wrist pin. Install the connecting rod and wrist pin into the piston, then slide the piston into the big hole in the plastic ring. Using the shaft, align the small hole in the tool with the wrist pin hole in the piston. Hold the piston in place with the shaft and gently tighten the thumb screws to keep it from moving in the tool. This keeps the wrist pin hole and the shaft hole aligned. Work the shaft around a little to make sure the holes stay aligned as you tighten the screws.

Now grab your new wist pin clip with a pair of needle nose pliers and insert it into the hole in the tool. Push it in the hole with the pliers from the middle of the clip, (turned 90* from how it will be in the piston) so the end of the wire doesn’t dig into the plastic on the way down. The hole is tapered so the further you push it in, the more it will compress. Using the end of the pliers, spin the clip so it’s facing the groove in the piston properly (or close) and then use the shaft to push it down the hole until it bottoms out against the wrist pin. You’ll hear/ feel it click into place, and you’re good to go.

I’m sure a video would do a better job of explaining it, but hopefully this makes sense. It's pretty slick.

Thanks,
Brian

 

[Daniel's Racing]

Be sure to span any access gap with the wire clip. Never align gap in clip to access gap.

You want the clips gap either top or bottom whichever one is further from any access cutouts.

 

[Mike Hughes]

Some clips have tangs on them. Some people clip these off because they have broken off and went thru the motor. I dont because it is handy for installing. They need to be installed correctly. The tangs should point up or down in the piston. Pointing in the direction of travel. If not they flex and will break off after a while.
Mike

 

[FloridaScaleBoater]

Some clips have tangs on them. Some people clip these off because they have broken off and went thru the motor. I dont because it is handy for installing. They need to be installed correctly. The tangs should point up or down in the piston. Pointing in the direction of travel. If not they flex and will break off after a while.
Mike

Yup, OPS used the clips W/ tangs.
Learned the pointing up or down from my mentor, Gus Johnson.
Years ago

 

[Wasted wages]

So that tool is useless on a CMB...right ?
I mean you could do one side of the piston prior to installing it, but that tool won't fit thru the exhaust port..Still have to get that second clip in somehow....

 

[FloridaScaleBoater]

So that tool is useless on a CMB...right ?
I mean you could do one side of the piston prior to installing it, but that tool won't fit thru the exhaust port..Still have to get that second clip in somehow....

Don't know what CMB you are working on, all of em I've seen, you only have access to the clip on one side of the piston.
A whole different process for getting that clip installed through the exhaust on an EVO style engine!

 

[Wasted wages]

Exactly.

 

[Brian Sorgente]

Yeah for an evo style engine I’d use brass tubes. But the process is pretty much the same.

Brian

 

[Gary Lauer]

Thanks to every one, I never thought of braking the sharp edge of the end of the clip. I should be good to go. I really like that tool, I may make one.

 

[Tim Kish]

Took me a bit to figure it out Frank is a genius

I've known that for years

 

[LarryConrad]

I use a Frank Orlic wrist pin installation tool, but a tube inside of another tube will work well too. I use a cut off wheel or a file to deburr the end of the clip so it slides down easier. Put it in the hole sideways, then spin it so it sits flat on the rod or tube you're pushing it in with, and then send it home.

Here's a pic of franks tool. Pretty easy to make, just some UHMW, some thumb screws, and a little shaft. I believe frank tapered the hole the clip slides in as well, so it compresses on the way down.

View attachment 303679

I use one of these also.

 

[Grimracer]

Install it in a clear plastic bag