Klass Kote Greens
- Thread starter Kez
- Start date
Help Support Intlwaters:
Danny King
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2012
- Messages
- 2,279
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2003
- Messages
- 7,159
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2005
- Messages
- 1,231
Ray,
That looks like a color they mixed for me years ago. It is called "Crapshooter Green". Color did not come out like I thought it would. When I opened the can, the color looked bad. Thought when it dried it would look better. It didn't. It got uglier.
Stu
That looks like a color they mixed for me years ago. It is called "Crapshooter Green". Color did not come out like I thought it would. When I opened the can, the color looked bad. Thought when it dried it would look better. It didn't. It got uglier.
Stu
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2003
- Messages
- 7,159
The can in my shop is labeled Medium Green #355. Was not a mixed color.
I understand they custom mix colors but I am hoping i can get it in the standard color they offer. I am not sure if they can mix the same color consistently.
Thanks, k
Thanks for posting the photo Ray. I am looking for a brighter green. Almost like the Interstate Battery kind of green. I did see the medium green on their web page and it did not look quite like the color in your photo.
K
Jerry Betke
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2005
- Messages
- 191
I and some of the other guys in our area have started painting all R/C boats (nitro, gas or electric) with Rustoleum 2X rattle can paint and spraying automotive clear ureathane over the 2X and graphics. I prefer using the 2X satin paints because I don't have to spend time sanding off the gloss. Just a light scotch bright is all that I do before applying graphics and clear coat. Rustoleum 2X comes in a bunch of colors, and I am sure that you can find what you are looking for. You can also get Spray MAX 2K Clear Glamour (3680061) ureathane in a spray can from Amazon for $20/ $25 bucks. There are others that go to the automotive paint store and get base coat colors (mixed) and clear coat automotive paints put in a rattle can. Either way saves money on paint and the hassle of using spraying equipment and cleanup. Always were a paint mask (If you can find one)!! Good luck. JB
Hi Jerry,
I've been wanting to give rattle can a try. I hate cleaning up the spray equipment. My boat already has KlassKote white. I may actually use rattle can for trim colors and then clear over the whole thing with KlassKote. Does Rustoleum 2X work better than others? Is Rustoleum 2X an enamel paint or lacquer? Do you let it dry a week before applying decal and clear? I know the Spray Max clear is very good. But I do not have a self contained respirator. So I will stick with epoxy clear
Thanks, k
I've been wanting to give rattle can a try. I hate cleaning up the spray equipment. My boat already has KlassKote white. I may actually use rattle can for trim colors and then clear over the whole thing with KlassKote. Does Rustoleum 2X work better than others? Is Rustoleum 2X an enamel paint or lacquer? Do you let it dry a week before applying decal and clear? I know the Spray Max clear is very good. But I do not have a self contained respirator. So I will stick with epoxy clear
Thanks, k
I've considered doing that, but - What happens if you were to get a scratch, chip, bump or crack in the fuelproof clear coat, and then some fuel lands on that scratch? Would the fuel then eat its way under the clear coat and ruin the non fuelproof paint underneath? Just wondering.
Thanks.
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2003
- Messages
- 16,194
That's exactly what can happen and I've seen it numerous times. Unfortunately it often ends up an entire re-do as once the lifting/separating starts it often doesn't stop. Something else maybe to consider is the type of boat. Riggers typically require the least amount of paint (unless you get crazy with the colors and/or paint scheme) so they might be better suited to "risk it". Something like an 1/8th scale or other large "full body" hull that might get a complex or "cool" paint job I'd say not worth it but that's just me. I've "bitten the bullet" and just accepted the higher cost of automotive acrylic urethanes for the sake of a fuel proof paint job.
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2003
- Messages
- 16,194
And one other thing- make sure every drain, pushrod, hardware, etc. hole is drilled BEFORE you paint regardless of paint choice. I've seen too many paint jobs get trashed after fuel and/or oils wicked under the paint from the exposed edges of holes drilled after painting.
Yes, I drill and seal the holes before painting. In fact, I sleeve the engine rail holes by gluing a piece of K&S brass tubing.
Jerry Betke
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2005
- Messages
- 191
Rustoleum has their own formula. It is not a lacquer! It is really nice to paint with. I agree with Don about painting a 1/8 Scale boat with auto motive paints. Most of the 1/8 Scale boat colors have a paint codes that needs to be mixed. I have seen the paint jobs on Dons boats and they are beautiful. The boat I am holding was painted with four different colors using PPG automotive paints. The cost for the paints alone was over two hundred dollars. The painting as I suggested works great on electric and gas boats. I have painted a couple of nitro riggers and friends of mine have painted numerous Sport 20 /40 boats with this method. I notice that a lot of RIggers have the hulls cleared and the cowlings painted in a bright color. Any damage to the paint should be quickly sealed up no matter what paint is applied. I am more concerned with damage to the boat that is not properly repaired or sealed to keep not only nitro but oil from getting into the wood or glass fibers. Paint as you want! I was just offering up some alternatives to paint cost and equipment required to get colors on a boat. The water is now liquid in Michigan. Now all we need is to get out of quarantine!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! JB
I agree to everyone's comments and will not be using Rustoleum on the AVL scale that I am building. I would not even try it on a Sport 40. But I have a perfect project and will be trying it tomorrow if it is warm enough.
Bought the Rustoleum 2X black. The bottle said primer + paint. I will give it a try.
I have the entire boat painted white with KlassKote. The plan is to add the trim with Rustoleum and then clear over everything after adding decal. Will post results.
Bought the Rustoleum 2X black. The bottle said primer + paint. I will give it a try.
I have the entire boat painted white with KlassKote. The plan is to add the trim with Rustoleum and then clear over everything after adding decal. Will post results.
It was finally warm enough to do some painting today. The 3M masking tapes I have are over 10 year old. The tapes feel harder than they should be. Painting supplies are not considered essential business so I decided to use what I have. It did not turn out too well. Lots of bleeding under the tape.
The Rustoleum 2X has much heavier coverage than normal rattle can. I was not used to it and ended up with some minor runs. Will sand it out before adding decal and clear. The paint still feels soft where epoxy paint would be hard enough for handling by now. I hope this technique works as I really hate cleaning up the guns.
The Rustoleum 2X has much heavier coverage than normal rattle can. I was not used to it and ended up with some minor runs. Will sand it out before adding decal and clear. The paint still feels soft where epoxy paint would be hard enough for handling by now. I hope this technique works as I really hate cleaning up the guns.
Attachments
- Joined
- Oct 27, 2005
- Messages
- 7,202
While the painters are gathered , I'm looking for small measuring containers to mix 8:1 catalyzed automotive paints in very small quantities for use with my airbrush . I find myself wasting a lot of paint because I can't accurately measure small quantities . thanks .
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2003
- Messages
- 4,206
Tom,
Get yourself a food scale. I use one for my epoxy and dont see why it cant work for small batches. You want one that goes down to gram weight.
Get yourself a food scale. I use one for my epoxy and dont see why it cant work for small batches. You want one that goes down to gram weight.
I have been using SS spoons I picked up at a Dollar store. I bought different sizes down to tea spoon. I use one for the paint and another one for the catalyst. Then I put thinner in a small glass bottle and clean both spoons in it. The thinner will be used to thin the paint. There is very little waste this way. I've been mixing Hobby Poxy, K&B superpoxy and now Klass Kote like this
Similar threads
