Waterproof Charge Jack

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WikiWiki1

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Jun 3, 2005
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186
Has anyone found a plug that can be left out of the radio box to allow charging the battery without opening the box?

I have found several sources on the web but would like to draw on some experience before I collect a bunch of stuff I can't use. The location of the radio in my roundnose is under the deck. I want to be able to charge the batteries the night before a race with it installed in the boat. Then I will be ready to go on race day without having to reassemble it and hook everything up.

Thanks, Brent
 
Has anyone found a plug that can be left out of the radio box to allow charging the battery without opening the box?I have found several sources on the web but would like to draw on some experience before I collect a bunch of stuff I can't use. The location of the radio in my roundnose is under the deck. I want to be able to charge the batteries the night before a race with it installed in the boat. Then I will be ready to go on race day without having to reassemble it and hook everything up.

Thanks, Brent
Brent,

I use the Ernst charge recepticles from Tower Hobbies. For Furaba,LXE963. You will also need the switch with the extra wire.

<a href="http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=ernst" target="_blank">http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=ernst</a>
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Has anyone found a plug that can be left out of the radio box to allow charging the battery without opening the box?I have found several sources on the web but would like to draw on some experience before I collect a bunch of stuff I can't use. The location of the radio in my roundnose is under the deck. I want to be able to charge the batteries the night before a race with it installed in the boat. Then I will be ready to go on race day without having to reassemble it and hook everything up.

Thanks, Brent
Brent,

I use the Ernst charge recepticles from Tower Hobbies. For Furaba,LXE963. You will also need the switch with the extra wire.

<a href="http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=ernst" target="_blank">http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=ernst</a>

I have one of those but the cover doesn't fit very tight. I don't think it would stay in all the time. I'm going to look for a different cover or plug to keep it dry.
 
Cutting a hole in the lid with an expansion plug or film canister is best. Even though the box lid is sealed, there is still condensation to worry about, and venting the box between rounds reduces condensation.
 
the expansion plugs jon mentions can be had at a boat dealer or marine supply. ask for small livewell/bait box/cooler drain plugs. rubber body with a cam lock lever. put in hole, flip lever, plug expands to fit/seal hole. position charge jack within easy reach. pull plug & charge. available down to 1/2" for sure, maybe smaller........
 
Could do like Dick Jones does has two screws like Frankenstien that protrude out of the lid.Just hook your alligator clamps on them. :wacko: :lol: :p
 
Moparbarn, one little step further is to tie a piece of fishing line onto the box plug and the charging line so that when you pop off the plug you can then pull the wiring out.
 
Could do like Dick Jones does has two screws like Frankenstien that protrude out of the lid.Just hook your alligator clamps on them. :wacko: :lol: :p
lol and we have seen what the inside oh and outside of his boat looks like..
 
if your able to solder you can make your own switch---charge from it, water proof, and wont wear out like a regular one-- also can be made with out the ability to charge--- simple and effective!

100_0807-1.jpg


100_1265.jpg
 
Could do like Dick Jones does has two screws like Frankenstien that protrude out of the lid.Just hook your alligator clamps on them. :wacko: :lol: :p

I couldn't find a good connector, so I went with the frankenstien bolts. Thanks for all the ideas!

Brent :D
I was confronted with the same problem so I tried a few things. My main issue was that I didn’t have a drill the exact size for the aftermarket rubber plugs. My drill was always too big and hard to get the charge plug out even if it was a store bought lid.

Refinement #1 Went to the local U-Brew and bought a dozen corks that fit very nicely (they need to be tapered so that they have a tight fit). That got rid of the rubber stopper and it's weight as well.

Refinement #2 The Frankenstein solution. 2 4-40 bolts, nuts and washers with the battery terminals on them. The main issue with those was that there were spider webs (cracks) in the plexy probably because I tightened them up too much. This is working well in my mono. The only other issue was when I tried it on my other mono which had a carbon fiber lid. Carbon fiber conducts electricity. After a lot of sparks, needless to say, that went by the wayside. They are also ugly.

Refinement #3 On my latest build, I will be putting the charging terminals onto the pushrods. They are sealed and there aren’t any bolts sticking up. The only caution here is that the rods need to have plastic ends on at least one of them. I’ll be connecting to the throttle and the steering but if they aren’t insolated/isolated, there will be a short circuit. As long as the rudder and throttle do not complete the curcuit you're all right (mainly through the exhaust pipe mounts?).

One thing to remember, seal all wood in the radio box. If you leave the cover on without ventilation, the glue of the plywood, humidity and heat of the enclosure will be the ideal breading conditions of fungi of all sorts. I speak from experience here. It is nasty. I thought the radio box lid was fogged over but it turned out to be a "forest' of fungi.

Or you can do it the quick way, drill a 3/8 hole in the cover, seal it then by using the old stand by, duct tape EH. :lol:

Wally
 
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