Squaring Flex Shafts?

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+1 with namba276.

i have the sem on my Crapshooter 45 and other boats...

Awesome system.

................Chris.............
 
Buck, just a standard strut with lead Teflon bushings...stub shaft set screws to the squared ferrule...square cable then slides for and aft an1/8" or so. Cable is locked between collet and ferrule. Reduces the force on the bearings of the engine, and if the cable breaks you don't lose everything. The system works awesome...
I think Buck is asking because the "standard" strut of today is designed to use a .014" wall brass sleeve for the bearing. I am familiar with the Octura teflon bushings and I am pretty sure their o.d. is larger than the brass sleeves that most are using today. So, most of today's struts would need to be bored out slightly for any bearing upgrade.
 
Well too...I'm only running .150 on my 20 boats and .187 on my 40 boats. No gas or 67 stuff currently in my collection.

Also have little call for .250 stuff...

To add...I don't think it matters which type of bushing you use in the strut...it makes no difference when considering my drive system...I prefer the lead Teflon over the brass sleeve type. To each his own...I'm going to order 20' of .250 cable and maybe I'll sell some 1/4" stuff
 
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Check this piece out, no big ferrule needed.

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Bob,

I'll definitely order several .250" custom double square cables, let us know when you get it in.
 
Buck, I just ordered 20' of .250 cable...once it shows up, I'll let you know.

Thanks guys, Bob
 
The worst part of a square drive using a ferrule in front of the stub shaft is the stuffing tube just ends with a wide open end. Nothing to keep the lube contained in the driveline IMO is a poor design.

In a cat all the grease/oil runs right out and gets flushed clean by the water. Even worse I a mono with all that junk ending up in the boat.

Lead teflons fit in the stock strut bore.
 
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The Octura 1/4" ss skeg strut is the bomb. Just cut the skeg off. Thy make bullit nose for it and spacers to use there lead Teflon bushings.

Thy also make all the flex cables squared on the end and all the shafts thrust washer and every thing else you will need to do what ever you want.

Go to Grave RC web sight and put Octura in the search. pics of almost every thing Octura makes in stock.

Love standing in front of the wall of stuff and just looking at what thy make.

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IMO, double square is the only way to go...but that's my opinion. I have had no issues with grease go in the boat...I lube the shaft every other heat. No screeching comes from my boats. I don't use grease either...Teflon tubing with a combo of bar lube and stp works well, and, non of these lubricants are water affected. Ever try washing your greasy hands with water? Doesn't work too well...also, the gap between ferrule and stuffing tube is minimal...1/16 - 1/8 max...try it, you'll like it!

Bob
 
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I have been using square drive in my 20 hydro for 20 years thanks to Marty Davis .You can use the strut with the stuffing tube all the way thur the strut and a brass bushing.Use a cable with the hard shaft and make it the lenght you need and send it to Bob to square it on one end.At the engine make a delron tee sleeve to put over the stuffing tube.Make a delron collar drill the hole for a tight fit for shaft with two 440 screws one on each side this will keep it balanced and then split the collar in two.This will keep the shaft in and will let it float back in forth.

Dave
 
I use a one piece square on one end on my .21 rigger at the eng with a K&B square collet. Put a 3/16 cable clamp on it so it dose not come out. Use a Teflon washer on the strut for the prop thrust.

The only thing I don't like is the square end will not go threw the brass strut bushing. when you pull the shaft it has to stay on the shaft. you cant use lead Teflon as the square end will not go threw them.

If you want to change the brass shaft bushing you have to take the drive dog off.
 
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Try my system guys...you'll love it...no hassle, easy to set up...no extra machining. No breakage, no nightmare...easy.
 
Guys, I received the .250 cable today. Let me know if I can help you.

Thanks, Bob
 
Ok one more set up which I am using in my gas rigger. I use the stub shaft with the drive dog, teflon washer and the SS ferrule square hole up front. Now I buy a simple cable with one square end. I install the cable into my standard compression collet at the engine and the square end goes into the ferrule at the strut. when I pull my engine if I don't loosen the shaft at the engine then it comes out with the engine and leaves the whole square drive strut as is.

My other option is to simply leave the standard cable as we run it today with the thrust washer at the drive dog. at the engine end just insert a square collet into the existing one and have the shaft squared off. Install the shaft saver and your done.

Pros and cons,

PRO: First system allows you to order everything and do it all our self.

Cons: Need to have shaft oiler or grease and also grease the strut bushings.

Stuffing tube short from strut and no support at strut end (no big)

Pro: second set up is simple and pretty much what we run now. All we need to add is the thrust washer and shaft saver up front.

Cons: Need to cut and send shaft out to get square end done plus not easy to replace at lake unless you have a backup shaft for each boat.
 
Try my system guys...you'll love it...no hassle, easy to set up...no extra machining. No breakage, no nightmare...easy.
So - when it's time to remove and re-grease the flex shaft, do you just loosen the set screws in the ferrule that is holding onto the front of the stub shaft, back out the stub shaft, then pull out the flex cable?

Where can I get the squared ferrule (for the front of the stub shaft)? Or do guys just file the hole square?

Thanks.
 
I know you can get 1/4 square collets from Aeromarine, didn't see anything smaller or ferrules on the website
 
I have .150 .187 &.250 collets and ferrules. I have .150 .187 &.250 cable...I need to know the thread pattern of your engine to be sure I have what you need...
 
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