Scratch Build 90 size Rigger

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RCBOATMANIAC

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2006
Messages
112
B) Well the second build of an outrigger is in a status of work in progress since my 21 size is at a stand still. As soon as I can gets some pics taken I will post them for your viewing. This particular rigger is going to incorperate about 3 different riggers into one the front sponsons will look like RR , the Tub will have a little of SGX Eagle, and the decking will resemble the Avenger Spider, but so far everything is coming together as planned. I am currently awaiting the arrival of my drive components from Warehouse Hobbies I am going to use the RD-1 drive sysytem they manufacturer. The power house that is going to push the envelope is going to be an OPS 90 using a third channel needle valve, if there is any body out there that has any suggestions as to what or who makes the best needle valve suggestions are welcomed. So if there is any body else daring to divulge your build express yourself. Dave
 
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B) Well the second build of an outrigger is in a status of work in progress since my 21 size is at a stand still. As soon as I can gets some pics taken I will post them for your viewing. This particular rigger is going to incorperate about 3 different riggers into one the front sponsons will look like RR , the Tub will have a little of SGX Eagle, and the decking will resemble the Avenger Spider, but so far everything is coming together as planned. I am currently awaiting the arrival of my drive components from Warehouse Hobbies I am going to use the RD-1 drive sysytem they manufacturer. The power house that is going to push the envelope is going to be an OPS 90 using a third channel needle valve, if there is any body out there that has any suggestions as to what or who makes the best needle valve suggestions are welcomed. So if there is any body else daring to devegle your build express yourself. Dave

I really like the CMDi COURSE 3rd Channel. I use it on my larger engines.

Larry Jr.
 
I went to CMD wesite and looked through there whole catalog and couldn't find anything for remote needle valves. thanks for the input. Dave
 
So if there is any body else daring to divulge your build express yourself. Dave

Hey Dave....I'm starting on a 45 Cajun Bullet. It will have a CMB45RS in it. Jim
 
U can put up a WTB add and one will come up. Or I know my local hobby shop has them, alshobbyshop.com.

U can find lots of pics of them in many user gallery's. Help me out guys!!

Larry Jr.
 
Try Phil's Hobby Shop in Ft. Wayne, IN - 1-260-426-5056. Their website is HERE, although what is shown on the website is the CMD fine needle, that is only a drop in the bucket compared to what they actually carry. Give them a call. I've gotten the CMD coarse needle from them before (among many other items not shown) and their service is great. Hope this helps.
 
Well I did over that once I was able to get pics of the boat I'd post them for you to see how my progress is coming along. well I hope this works so it will link you directly to my gallery never done this before other than attaching the pics to the post. https://www.intlwaters.com/gallery/index.php?cat=10382 I hope this works first time. Any comments are welcomed. Thanks Dave
 
Hey Dave. The boat looks good! you need to trim the bottom of the strut to be even with the riding pad.is that the only support that the rudder has? Nick

ps who makes that strut?
 
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I got the drive unit from WareHouse Hobbies they call it the RD-1 Competition Drive. Yep I still have a few little mods left to do to it to make it mate up to the center riding pad. Believe it or not but the post they use to hold the rudder is very sturdy and is bolted together using 1/4x20 bolts. Thanks for asking Dave
 
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Well I got my wood order and now I have the front sponsons skinned they are looking pretty good for not having any patterns to go by to build the sponsons. All I had was the sponsons for my 45 size RoadRunner outrigger to go by. https://www.intlwaters.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=754 I do have a question thou I am wanting to find out what would be a good starting point to set the sponsons at. The width of the tub is 5 5/8 inch with the booms and the sponson collapsed the over all with of the sponsons are 23 1/2 inchs for a beam. Also for a 90 size rigger what would be a good beam width for the boat any suggestions would be welcomed. Thanks Dave
 
Well I got my wood order and now I have the front sponsons skinned they are looking pretty good for not having any patterns to go by to build the sponsons. All I had was the sponsons for my 45 size RoadRunner outrigger to go by. https://www.intlwaters.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=754 I do have a question thou I am wanting to find out what would be a good starting point to set the sponsons at. The width of the tub is 5 5/8 inch with the booms and the sponson collapsed the over all with of the sponsons are 23 1/2 inchs for a beam. Also for a 90 size rigger what would be a good beam width for the boat any suggestions would be welcomed. Thanks Dave

RC,

Is that an optical illusion or are the tips of the front sponsons higher that the top rear? If so you're in for some acrobatics. Typically you want 1/4" to 1/2" drop on the top from the back top to the front top to apply some downforce to keep the front down.
 
Well I got my wood order and now I have the front sponsons skinned they are looking pretty good for not having any patterns to go by to build the sponsons. All I had was the sponsons for my 45 size RoadRunner outrigger to go by. https://www.intlwaters.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=754 I do have a question thou I am wanting to find out what would be a good starting point to set the sponsons at. The width of the tub is 5 5/8 inch with the booms and the sponson collapsed the over all with of the sponsons are 23 1/2 inchs for a beam. Also for a 90 size rigger what would be a good beam width for the boat any suggestions would be welcomed. Thanks Dave

RC,

Is that an optical illusion or are the tips of the front sponsons higher that the top rear? If so you're in for some acrobatics. Typically you want 1/4" to 1/2" drop on the top from the back top to the front top to apply some downforce to keep the front down.
Isn't it funny how pictures can do that optical illusion so well, but you had me thinking so I went and placed it on a flat surface just to see if the front sponsons do actually point up. So far without the rear riding pads mounted on the bottom of the boat they are kind of parallel to the surface. Once I have the riding pads on I have the rear boom for the front sponsons made so I can make adjustments to the sponsons so I can get that slight down angle on the front sponsons. I appreciate the interest since this is my first scratch built outrigger any help would be excepted. If you have any suggestions on the distances that the front sponsons should be set at the distance from tub to right sponson and the same for the left. I was trying to shoot for a beam of 24 inches since it is a 90 size rigger. I am also building a 21 size outrigger, but I was thinking of using the dimensions from the blue prints on a Sundowner Outboard Outrigger.
 
My booms on a 90 boat are 14 - 15" long. I offset my tubs 1/2" towards the inside sponson, but I don't think its all that critical.

I do add toe-in on the sponsons by making the front boom 1/8" shorter that the rear boom. Then I bring each sponson 1/16" closer to the tub at the front boom than at the rear. This does two things I like. One it puts the turn fin as a slight angle that corrects for propwalk and two it tends to prevent water from running up the inside edge of the sponsons.

If you have that downslope on the top, you should be in good shape.

Nice looking boat.
 
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My booms on a 90 boat are 14 - 15" long. I offset my tubs 1/2" towards the inside sponson, but I don't think its all that critical.
I do add toe-in on the sponsons by making the front boom 1/8" shorter that the rear boom. Then I bring each sponson 1/16" closer to the tub at the front boom than at the rear. This does two things I like. One it puts the turn fin as a slight angle that corrects for propwalk and two it tends to prevent water from running up the inside edge of the sponsons.

If you have that downslope on the top, you should be in good shape.

Nice looking boat.
That is some good info, but can you or anybody have a recommendation to what would be a good setting for the sponsons the distance between the tub and the inside edge of the sponsons. Example right side 5 1/2 inches and left side 6 inches or should they be of equal distance from the tub, any suggestions are welcomed. Thanks Dave
 
My booms on a 90 boat are 14 - 15" long. I offset my tubs 1/2" towards the inside sponson, but I don't think its all that critical.
I do add toe-in on the sponsons by making the front boom 1/8" shorter that the rear boom. Then I bring each sponson 1/16" closer to the tub at the front boom than at the rear. This does two things I like. One it puts the turn fin as a slight angle that corrects for propwalk and two it tends to prevent water from running up the inside edge of the sponsons.

If you have that downslope on the top, you should be in good shape.

Nice looking boat.
That is some good info, but can you or anybody have a recommendation to what would be a good setting for the sponsons the distance between the tub and the inside edge of the sponsons. Example right side 5 1/2 inches and left side 6 inches or should they be of equal distance from the tub, any suggestions are welcomed. Thanks Dave
5" is good with 1/16" toe in on each sponson.
 
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