JAE .12 Truex fan

[chuck st romain]

Here are a few pictures of my JAE .12 build. as you can see i am a big fan of martins. my girls uncle is an official and we get to go to a few races with "hot" pit passes and i would like to meet him next year when we are at one. gona try and get a short track as we usually are at either CA or Vegas.

at any rate, i havent finished yet but so far i love this boat. i am taking my time working on it 1/2 - 1hr at a time and making sure everything is good. i have the tub finished paying attention to strut location. there is alot of talk about battery packs fitting but a venom 1200 mah 5 cell stick fits fine. i had problems getting a lipo pack and regulator so i will just use this nimi. the servos were as recomended with the solinger rudder and motor mount. a collari .12 (or i have a novarossi but that is probablly going in my 2nd build) and everything else is built as recomended. i took my time as this is my first wood build. the sponsons are finished and ready to go on after i finish the pipe mount and i should get it wet within a week or so. not sure if i can this weekend or not, then i wont be able to for a few weeks as i am going to key west for the offshore races next week. i will get pictures of it finished and a video asap

as stated in several forums i tried to get the strut as low as i could. i am using the octura strut and short bracket. i cut the fin and front of the strut off then filed the bottom of the strut thin and flat as well as used a dremel to make a chanel in the top side of the ski. i then glued in a shim that pushed the stuffing tube as low as possable. we will see how it works and mod if necessary.

it is all sealed with 4:1 epoxy then stickered and cleared. i chose to use a clear lexan radio box lid as this is common on wood finished riggers and i like to be able to just glance into it and make sure it is dry before running again.

i just wanted to start a thread to help anyone that needs it as i am a first time wood boat builder but experienced FE guy. if you have any questions please ask as i learned alot doing research and building this one. i am also open to suggestions as to what i might do to improve my build as i will be building a 2nd one i am sure!

chuck

 

[Alexander King]

Here are a few pictures of my JAE .12 build. as you can see i am a big fan of martins. my girls uncle is an official and we get to go to a few races with "hot" pit passes and i would like to meet him next year when we are at one. gona try and get a short track as we usually are at either CA or Vegas.

at any rate, i havent finished yet but so far i love this boat. i am taking my time working on it 1/2 - 1hr at a time and making sure everything is good. i have the tub finished paying attention to strut location. there is alot of talk about battery packs fitting but a venom 1200 mah 5 cell stick fits fine. i had problems getting a lipo pack and regulator so i will just use this nimi. the servos were as recomended with the solinger rudder and motor mount. a collari .12 (or i have a novarossi but that is probablly going in my 2nd build) and everything else is built as recomended. i took my time as this is my first wood build. the sponsons are finished and ready to go on after i finish the pipe mount and i should get it wet within a week or so. not sure if i can this weekend or not, then i wont be able to for a few weeks as i am going to key west for the offshore races next week. i will get pictures of it finished and a video asap

as stated in several forums i tried to get the strut as low as i could. i am using the octura strut and short bracket. i cut the fin and front of the strut off then filed the bottom of the strut thin and flat as well as used a dremel to make a chanel in the top side of the ski. i then glued in a shim that pushed the stuffing tube as low as possable. we will see how it works and mod if necessary.

it is all sealed with 4:1 epoxy then stickered and cleared. i chose to use a clear lexan radio box lid as this is common on wood finished riggers and i like to be able to just glance into it and make sure it is dry before running again.

i just wanted to start a thread to help anyone that needs it as i am a first time wood boat builder but experienced FE guy. if you have any questions please ask as i learned alot doing research and building this one. i am also open to suggestions as to what i might do to improve my build as i will be building a 2nd one i am sure!

chuck

Your build looks pretty good but you might want to take a look at some of the forums about building this hull.. There are a few things you might want to consider changing like the strut location. There was a thread on the location of the strut with some sugestions that will help... check in and give it a read

and what do you mean by a experienced FE ? Im a little new here....

 

[chuck st romain]

i read alot about strut location and determined i would go with the one that said that the distance of the prop from the trandsome was not that important. then i tried to get it as low as i could.

what i mean if "Fast Electric" i have built about 30 or so electric mono's. now i am playing with nitro tunnels and figured a rigger would be a good fit for my collection

 

[opio]

FE = FAST ELETRIC

 

[Ron Zaker Jr]

i read alot about strut location and determined i would go with the one that said that the distance of the prop from the trandsome was not that important. then i tried to get it as low as i could.

what i mean if "Fast Electric" i have built about 30 or so electric mono's. now i am playing with nitro tunnels and figured a rigger would be a good fit for my collection

Looks really good.

 

[tmunn]

I have been doing nitro and gas for a few yaers now and am no pro but now do know a few things so.....I see that you may have an issue with your pipe trying to move in your metal on metal bracket.When you exhaust coupler heats up the taper on the pipe may alow the pipe to slide back inside your bracket.Just keep an eye on it.If that is the type of pipe clamp you choose to use then get one that is rubber coated and put it behind the convergent cone on your muffler or better yet get a small clamp for your stinger and make a small bracket to hold the bracket back there and do it in a way that you can slide the bracket in and out until you find the sweet spot fo that pipe.

I cannot tell if the throttle is a cable or solid rod but cables for me are fine for pulling no good for pushing unless there is not much room where they exit the outer casing and water will come back inside the cable housing unless you fill it full of grease or vasaline.

Acoording to what i have read i agree with Alexander that your strut is too high but mr zaker would know better than me.

You did awesome and this is in no way a slam but since you asked i am giving you mho.

Terry Munn

 

[Ron Olson]

I kind of hate to tell you this but if you get a chance to meet Martin next season he'll be driving for another outfit, Michael Waltrip Racing, the #56 NAPA Auto Parts car. I'm sure that he'd like it anyway.

 

[chuck st romain]

i know martin is in a new ride but i couldnt get that sticket kit yet. i'm sure by then this boat will be in the weeds...

thanks for the input guys. i already figured out the pipe bracket and am going to scrap that one and go with one on the stinger. i will use that one while i break it in and determine how long it needs to be then change over to one on the stinger once i figure the legnth it needs to be.

i am using a cable for the throtle, pull. i have this same size and grease themm on my tunnels and no problems.

i guess i need to go back to the drawing board on the strut. everyone so far has told me it is to high up. the way it sits now is as low as the stuffing tube could be with the ski uncut. i thought that channeling the strut and grinding the bottom of the strut i was low enough but i will have to get a longer bracket. i think even if the strut was out of the ski i can only get less than 1mm lower but i will try.

thanks for the input and i am still open for ideas...

what do you know about cutting the cooling fins off the head??????

thanks again

 

[Ron Olson]

I've got the same strut on mine but it's in beryllium copper, that's why I was questioning it on another thread in here.

As far as cutting the heat sink fins off, I've done this several times. The primitive way is just to use a hacksaw as the large Dremel reinforced cut-off wheel doesn't quite go in far enough to do the job. I do with what I have and took off the top 3 fins but you can go 4 or more but 3 is a good starting point. The hacksaw is going to leave marks and look ugly when done so I cleaned mine up using a large beveled grinding wheel that goes into a drill to do the center then sanded the top fin until it was somewhat shiny.

 

[Neil LaGarry]

Looks good Chuck

I like it .I did notice the little chunk of wood glued to the bottom of the tub. I like the ability to change the strut angle of attack. I say remove it The Teflon tube inside the drive line is just problems, not many run them.Center of gravity is alot to the left Other wise nice build

Neil

 

[chuck st romain]

i have taken advise and got the strut a little lower (maybee 1mm) it now sits with the hub of the prop even with the bottom of the ski. i still am going to try and get it lower but i will give it a try like this first. i am starting with a back-cut 440 that has been cupped. i didn't cut the head as this motor has only been run about 3 tanks and still isn't really broken in yet. i will no doubt cut it in the near future but want to run it cold for now, if it dosnt get up to temp i will have a hacksaw on hand to do some mods.. i havent run it yet but am one zip-tie away from the first run. gotta go to work today so i hope tomorrow will be the day.

 

[shoboat]

Chuck,

I hope you reduced the X-440 propeller, it looks quite large in the picture.

I would trim the head before you go to the pond and test.

And you need to find a bigger carb size: .280" works very well.

Have Fun Testing,

Mark Sholund

 

[chuck st romain]

i ran my boat about 6 tanks of fuel today and i must say this is a great kit. turns out that by following the directions i nailed it on the head. my boat ran beautiful and i didn't have to adjust anything other than the steering trim and trying a few different props... i started with a stock 637 and was more than happy, next went on a modified 640 backcut and detounged and it was good enough that i used it for the rest of the day. the boat had the right ride angle and never even wiggled much less got loose.

to anybody building this kit - just remember that everyone has there own opinion on what works, and great ideas on modifying the kit. i guarantee if you follow the instructions to a T and get the strut in the right position (parallel to the tub, bottom of the strut against the ski) this boat will work right out of the box.

i must say that i am impressed with this kit and the r&d that the guys put into it. i cant wait untill the .21 is available

 

[mtruex]

i ran my boat about 6 tanks of fuel today and i must say this is a great kit. turns out that by following the directions i nailed it on the head. my boat ran beautiful and i didn't have to adjust anything other than the steering trim and trying a few different props... i started with a stock 637 and was more than happy, next went on a modified 640 backcut and detounged and it was good enough that i used it for the rest of the day. the boat had the right ride angle and never even wiggled much less got loose.

to anybody building this kit - just remember that everyone has there own opinion on what works, and great ideas on modifying the kit. i guarantee if you follow the instructions to a T and get the strut in the right position (parallel to the tub, bottom of the strut against the ski) this boat will work right out of the box.

i must say that i am impressed with this kit and the r&d that the guys put into it. i cant wait untill the .21 is available

B) B) B)

 

[chuck st romain]

good show today martin......

 

[SayMikey]

good show today martin......

Has anyone tried a Dumas Strut? Old school but no more than piece of k/s tubing silver soldered to a ss leg.... I have a small one to try and it should get the strut about as low as you can go

 

[Ron Olson]

Mike, I turned my Octura strut around today, removed the bullet and replaced it with a lead Teflon bushing. After test fitting it I then ground as much as I could off the bottom to get it even lower. I think what I need to do is go further out to get it down where I feel it needs to be.

 

[chuck st romain]

i will tell you guys.... just like rod told me.... and mine worked perfect, just follow the instructions and it is all go. the bottom of the strut against the ski and level with the tub..