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Intlwaters

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Joined
Jan 30, 2009
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11
Yo all, I'm new to this forum. Been on RCU a few years though so some here will probarbly know me from there. My current project is a .21 Speedmaster Mono. Jsut starting to get towards the finishing stages... Turning out to be quite an expensive boat to build.... Here are some pics.

Boat_1.jpg

boat_4.jpg

boat_3.jpg

boat_5.jpg

DSC00021.JPG
 
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Yo all, I'm new to this forum. Been on RCU a few years though so some here will probarbly know me from there. My current project is a .21 Speedmaster Mono. Jsut starting to get towards the finishing stages... Turning out to be quite an expensive boat to build.... Here are some pics.
Nice looking boat. Welcome to IW.

Zach
 
Welcome aboard Aidan,

I ran the exact boat last year a few times(Bill Britton's), setup properly it can be wicked fast. It was a copy of John Otto's setup (TechnologyFuels) and ran great. Bill is here on the board but mostly in the Tunnel Forum- look him or I up if you need help.

Andy
 
I need some guidance on exactly what i need to order now..

So far i have

.21 Speedmaster Hull

CMB .21 Valvola

Speedmaster stinger/strut and SM rudder

2ch Radio.

I know i need to order an Octura X400/3 and a Sully SS-8 Fuel tank (will 8oz be enough for this engine/setup) and an 18" 3/16 flexcable welded to a 3/16 stub shaft.

What else do i need to order... :/ i have no idea..

Aidan
 
okay i have just ordered:

.187 18" flex cable with 3/16 stub shaft

Octura X440/3 bronze 3/16 dog drive propeller

Hexflex 1.4 unf 3 16 Coupling

.187 drive dog

.187 brass tube for 18 inch flex cable

Aidan
 
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Welcome aboard Aidan....next you should order about a 10 inch starter belt, motor mounts (maybe someone with more experience with this type hull can help you with that choice), a 12 inch length of 1/4 inch brass tubing and a 3 foot length of 7/32 inch brass tubing. Figure out where the drive shaft will exit the bottom of the boat and cut a slot for the 1/4 inch brass tube and epoxy that in place.Be sure to sand the area around the slot with very course sandpaper so the epoxy will not fall off. Then slide the 7/32 inch tube thru the 1/4 inch tube and run that back to your stinger. The 7/32 inch tube will allow your shaft to spin with less friction. If your tubing gets bent from an accident you can slip it out and install a new one without cutting it out of the bottom of your boat. Also do not paint the bottom of your boat. To cut down on friction, sand the bottom of the boat with 400 grit wet or dry sandpaper sanding from front to back and vice versa. Do not sand from side to side. Mount the motor as low as possible in the boat (to where you can just get your drive belt on) to lower the center of gravity. Keep the angle of the motor about 7 or 8 degrees. If you have any questions for me please send me a private message. Good luck and God bless. Jim Fullmer
 
a 3/16 cable uses a 1/4" brass tube not a 3/16 or 7/32. then you glue a 9/32 tube in the boat. you have to give the cable a little room
 
You will need to whack a little off the end of that stinger. I think it's 1/2 inch but can't remember exactly. I'll find out then post again. Just remember to take out the brass end piece (can't remember the name of that either!) before you cut.

Bill
 
I already have Speedmaster mounts for the motor.... Take 1/2" off a beautifully machined $40 Strut? why lol.

Jim. The hull is ready made and ready to go into the water.. The tube will exit straight through the transom. or so ive been told which is where ive drilled the hole..

Thanks for the help and advice guys. i appreciate it

Aidan
 
what pipe and nitro % are you going to be running in the valvola?

also what year is the valvola?

carl
 
Valvola is New. Not sure on nitro but i think im guna go for a 3.5 MACS.... i have no idea on headers though.. i dunno what i need or where to look
 
Valvola is New. Not sure on nitro but i think im guna go for a 3.5 MACS.... i have no idea on headers though.. i dunno what i need or where to look
 
Aidan;

get ahold of my good friend Ian Folkson. iansboats.co.uk

he is the CMB importer there in England.

OR if you can get ahold of Dave Marles. he is a good sorce of CMB info as well.

carl
 
You're correct Aidan, the stinger exits the cable through the transom. Some folks use a small wedge or bracket inside the hull to keep the shaft in alignment with the motor collet. This is often done with the larger motors; it may not be necessary on the 21. But pay attention to shaft alignment when adjusting the strut; it is easy to make the cable rub the tube. I prefer to use a wedge mount bonded and laminated to the hull bottom. I make a triangular wedge from high density foam and bond it to the hull about 15mm from the collet. I then pot a short stub tube to the wedge that is 1 size larger than the stuffing tube. I then laminate a ply of kevlar over the whole thing. When potting the tube to the wedge, I have a small length of 3/16" music wire mounted in the collet and telescope the appropriate size tubes over it to ensure exact alignment.
 
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i would use a ops 3280 pipe, or an andy brown 21 pipe, the mac 3.5 just dont have the volume you need for that engine, after mounting the engine as low as possible then make your hole at the bottom of the rear of the transom then line up the shaft, then do what tnrc said about making the flex tube mount to the hull bottom, make sure all your radio box hole's are water prof, and follow the set up from the mfg. your on the right path, and keep asking questions, everyone on here is great and love to help everyone!!!
 
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Sound less 80DB in europe better to buy AB21 TL with extra muffling through CMDI contact Andy Brown Good Luck!
 
""the mac 3.5 just dont have the volume you need for that engine,""

then I guess you woudn't believe what pipe I'm running with that engine in a new Seaducer, and making tremendous RPM

Mac's 3.5 airplane pipe??
 
I already have Speedmaster mounts for the motor.... Take 1/2" off a beautifully machined $40 Strut? why lol.
Jim. The hull is ready made and ready to go into the water.. The tube will exit straight through the transom. or so ive been told which is where ive drilled the hole..

Thanks for the help and advice guys. i appreciate it

Aidan
Because the prop will be too far from the transom without cutting the stinger. I have the same boat and stinger and it handles worlds different (read: bad) without cutting the stinger back 1/2 inch. Remember, hardware is not one size fits all, merely a starting point for where you are going.

Also if I remember correctly, the setup sheet even mentions it.

Bill
 
So i should turn 12.6mm off the end then? as for pipes. not bothered about noise :/ just want something that performs good and i can afford hahaha. Could somebody take me a photo of their stuffing tube setup as i have no idea whaere to go, got the tube now. will post pics later next week of the build so far. Engine should turn up today, if not will be next week. also, ive put a bit of plywood on the inside of the transom and bolted the stinger on through that. is this correct? just made sense to be honest.

If anybody has msn, feel free to add me at [email protected]

Aidan
 

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