Fuel bubbling around glow plug

[Ted buckley]

Just a general question: Breaking in a new Nova Rossi .21 5 port for/w my Son & notice bubbling of fuel around Glow plug.. Head bolts are tight & no wear on the threads for the glow plug.. Could it be the washer for the glow plug & does this engine really need the washer. Running 30% for break in- but he plans on stepping-up to 60% Nitro. Or, is this just the way Nova Rossi's are?

 

[TimothyJones]

Yes it needs the washer and the head bolts seal the water jacket for what your taking about.There is a seperate plate under the jacket for the sealing of the chamber.

It might be vibration causing liquid to jump around making it appear as if its leaking?

Its takes a standard long glowplug ie: mc-9,odonnell colors.

Tim

Just a general question: Breaking in a new Nova Rossi .21 5 port for/w my Son & notice bubbling of fuel around Glow plug.. Head bolts are tight & no wear on the threads for the glow plug.. Could it be the washer for the glow plug & does this engine really need the washer. Running 30% for break in- but he plans on stepping-up to 60% Nitro. Or, is this just the way Nova Rossi's are?

 

[Duck899]

Yes it needs the washer and the head bolts seal the water jacket for what your taking about.There is a seperate plate under the jacket for the sealing of the chamber.

It might be vibration causing liquid to jump around making it appear as if its leaking?

Its takes a standard long glowplug ie: mc-9,odonnell colors.

Tim

Just a general question: Breaking in a new Nova Rossi .21 5 port for/w my Son & notice bubbling of fuel around Glow plug.. Head bolts are tight & no wear on the threads for the glow plug.. Could it be the washer for the glow plug & does this engine really need the washer. Running 30% for break in- but he plans on stepping-up to 60% Nitro. Or, is this just the way Nova Rossi's are?

Is it around the plug where it threads into the engine or around the tip of the plug? New plug please...

 

[Ted buckley]

Yes it needs the washer and the head bolts seal the water jacket for what your taking about.There is a seperate plate under the jacket for the sealing of the chamber.

It might be vibration causing liquid to jump around making it appear as if its leaking?

Its takes a standard long glowplug ie: mc-9,odonnell colors.

Tim

Just a general question: Breaking in a new Nova Rossi .21 5 port for/w my Son & notice bubbling of fuel around Glow plug.. Head bolts are tight & no wear on the threads for the glow plug.. Could it be the washer for the glow plug & does this engine really need the washer. Running 30% for break in- but he plans on stepping-up to 60% Nitro. Or, is this just the way Nova Rossi's are?

Is it around the plug where it threads into the engine or around the tip of the plug? New plug please...

Actually, the plug is new, Head bolts are tight, Plug is tight, but it has a washer. Fuel seems to leech between the plug & where it threads in - but there is no damaged threads and the top is clean, then you start to see the bubbling.

 

[Ted buckley]

Yes it needs the washer and the head bolts seal the water jacket for what your taking about.There is a seperate plate under the jacket for the sealing of the chamber.

It might be vibration causing liquid to jump around making it appear as if its leaking?

Its takes a standard long glowplug ie: mc-9,odonnell colors.

Tim

Just a general question: Breaking in a new Nova Rossi .21 5 port for/w my Son & notice bubbling of fuel around Glow plug.. Head bolts are tight & no wear on the threads for the glow plug.. Could it be the washer for the glow plug & does this engine really need the washer. Running 30% for break in- but he plans on stepping-up to 60% Nitro. Or, is this just the way Nova Rossi's are?

Is it around the plug where it threads into the engine or around the tip of the plug? New plug please...

Actually, the plug is new, Head bolts are tight, Plug is tight, but it has a washer. Fuel seems to leech between the plug & where it threads in - but there is no damaged threads and the top is clean, then you start to see the bubbling.

It doesn't effect the performance of the engine, because its getting it's "R's", but it just seems to me like it's some sort of air/fuel leak.. None of my other engines do this, so it was just a general Search & destroy type of question.. I guess maybe one of you guys might have had something similar. B)

 

[Charles Perdue]

When a bolt, plug, ect is tightened, it has a tendency to stretch the base material and pull the threads up around the hole preventing the two parts from seating properly. In high performance engines and where the fit is critical, the top thread in the hole is gently removed leaving a slight taper in the top of the hole to eliminate this problem.

You can do the same using a countersink bit.

One other thing that I do is place the copper washer on the plug with the cup of the washer (the new washer is not flat) away from the plug, toward the head. When I install the plug, I always tighten the plug down and loosen it several times, progressively getting tighter, to seat the washer. The copper washer also helps to transfer the heat from the plug to the head and if full surface contact is not made, it can cause the plug to run hotter.

This may seem like overkill, but my plugs do not leak at all.

Just my way.

Charles

 

[TimothyJones]

Never had one leak as far as I know. When I'm starting mine there is only 1 min left on the clock and getting it to the water is my main concern.LOL

Call Glen Quarles me may know something.He is the dealer for N/R .

Tim

When a bolt, plug, ect is tightened, it has a tendency to stretch the base material and pull the threads up around the hole preventing the two parts from seating properly. In high performance engines and where the fit is critical, the top thread in the hole is gently removed leaving a slight taper in the top of the hole to eliminate this problem.

You can do the same using a countersink bit.

One other thing that I do is place the copper washer on the plug with the cup of the washer (the new washer is not flat) away from the plug, toward the head. When I install the plug, I always tighten the plug down and loosen it several times, progressively getting tighter, to seat the washer. The copper washer also helps to transfer the heat from the plug to the head and if full surface contact is not made, it can cause the plug to run hotter.

This may seem like overkill, but my plugs do not leak at all.

Just my way.

Charles

 

[DON MAHER]

Ted,

Use WD-40 & fill up around the base of the plug, also put a drop or two on the stem seal. Now, by hand slowly turn over the motor. If the seal or copper gasket are leaking it will show up as "tiny bubbles".

Don

 

[Ted buckley]

When a bolt, plug, ect is tightened, it has a tendency to stretch the base material and pull the threads up around the hole preventing the two parts from seating properly. In high performance engines and where the fit is critical, the top thread in the hole is gently removed leaving a slight taper in the top of the hole to eliminate this problem.

You can do the same using a countersink bit.

One other thing that I do is place the copper washer on the plug with the cup of the washer (the new washer is not flat) away from the plug, toward the head. When I install the plug, I always tighten the plug down and loosen it several times, progressively getting tighter, to seat the washer. The copper washer also helps to transfer the heat from the plug to the head and if full surface contact is not made, it can cause the plug to run hotter.

This may seem like overkill, but my plugs do not leak at all.

Just my way.

Charles

I think Charles might be dead-on about the washer with Cup Down.. I'm usually the one Starting the boat, but not the one loosening the plug or taking it out.. It's my Son's boat & Engine and he did get it from Glenn Quarles.. Now that I think of it - My son did take the plug out to change to an Mc-9, when we started to run 60%. I remember the washer falling on the table before he changed-it, but I didn't observe him putting the washer on correctly or not :blink: I will ask... Thanks Guys..

 

[Jack ODonnell]

When a bolt, plug, ect is tightened, it has a tendency to stretch the base material and pull the threads up around the hole preventing the two parts from seating properly. In high performance engines and where the fit is critical, the top thread in the hole is gently removed leaving a slight taper in the top of the hole to eliminate this problem.

You can do the same using a countersink bit.

One other thing that I do is place the copper washer on the plug with the cup of the washer (the new washer is not flat) away from the plug, toward the head. When I install the plug, I always tighten the plug down and loosen it several times, progressively getting tighter, to seat the washer. The copper washer also helps to transfer the heat from the plug to the head and if full surface contact is not made, it can cause the plug to run hotter.

This may seem like overkill, but my plugs do not leak at all.

Just my way.

Charles

I think Charles might be dead-on about the washer with Cup Down.. I'm usually the one Starting the boat, but not the one loosening the plug or taking it out.. It's my Son's boat & Engine and he did get it from Glenn Quarles.. Now that I think of it - My son did take the plug out to change to an Mc-9, when we started to run 60%. I remember the washer falling on the table before he changed-it, but I didn't observe him putting the washer on correctly or not :blink: I will ask... Thanks Guys..

A plug should NOT have have a cupped washer. J.ODonnell

 

[Ted buckley]

When a bolt, plug, ect is tightened, it has a tendency to stretch the base material and pull the threads up around the hole preventing the two parts from seating properly. In high performance engines and where the fit is critical, the top thread in the hole is gently removed leaving a slight taper in the top of the hole to eliminate this problem.

You can do the same using a countersink bit.

One other thing that I do is place the copper washer on the plug with the cup of the washer (the new washer is not flat) away from the plug, toward the head. When I install the plug, I always tighten the plug down and loosen it several times, progressively getting tighter, to seat the washer. The copper washer also helps to transfer the heat from the plug to the head and if full surface contact is not made, it can cause the plug to run hotter.

This may seem like overkill, but my plugs do not leak at all.

Just my way.

Charles

I think Charles might be dead-on about the washer with Cup Down.. I'm usually the one Starting the boat, but not the one loosening the plug or taking it out.. It's my Son's boat & Engine and he did get it from Glenn Quarles.. Now that I think of it - My son did take the plug out to change to an Mc-9, when we started to run 60%. I remember the washer falling on the table before he changed-it, but I didn't observe him putting the washer on correctly or not :blink: I will ask... Thanks Guys..

A plug should NOT have have a cupped washer. J.ODonnell

Does this clear things up!! "One other thing that I do is place the copper washer on the plug with the cup of the washer (the new washer is not flat) away from the plug, toward the head."

 

[Richard Dahlheimer]

When a bolt, plug, ect is tightened, it has a tendency to stretch the base material and pull the threads up around the hole preventing the two parts from seating properly. In high performance engines and where the fit is critical, the top thread in the hole is gently removed leaving a slight taper in the top of the hole to eliminate this problem.

You can do the same using a countersink bit.

One other thing that I do is place the copper washer on the plug with the cup of the washer (the new washer is not flat) away from the plug, toward the head. When I install the plug, I always tighten the plug down and loosen it several times, progressively getting tighter, to seat the washer. The copper washer also helps to transfer the heat from the plug to the head and if full surface contact is not made, it can cause the plug to run hotter.

This may seem like overkill, but my plugs do not leak at all.

Just my way.

Charles

I think Charles might be dead-on about the washer with Cup Down.. I'm usually the one Starting the boat, but not the one loosening the plug or taking it out.. It's my Son's boat & Engine and he did get it from Glenn Quarles.. Now that I think of it - My son did take the plug out to change to an Mc-9, when we started to run 60%. I remember the washer falling on the table before he changed-it, but I didn't observe him putting the washer on correctly or not :blink: I will ask... Thanks Guys..

A plug should NOT have have a cupped washer. J.ODonnell

Does this clear things up!! "One other thing that I do is place the copper washer on the plug with the cup of the washer (the new washer is not flat) away from the plug, toward the head."

Hello Ted, i will bring my counter sink bit with to the pond on Sunday. I plan on going, as long as there are no gail force winds, and rain. Richard D