FINISHING EPOXY GLASS PARTS

[P THOMAS]

This is some info i have included in my setup instrudtions for my boats.

Lots of people dread the finishing and painting of epoxy boats this makes it less of a hassle.

Epoxy glass parts will get tiny pin holes or small air bubbles due to the air trapped in the epoxy surface coat. we try to keep this to a minimum but you will find some on your parts.

The best way to finish the epoxy parts is to start by dulling the surface of the hull and cowl with a green finishing pad, do not sand into the glass cloth, this will cause more pin holes. Inspect the part for pin holes, use a sharp pointed knife to open any pinholes you can find.

Spackling paste used for wall board is good for filling pinholes.

Apply light weight spackling with a spreader. Fill all pin holes with the spackling remove any excess and let this dry for 2-4 hours. Lightly dry sand the parts with a red finishing pad. Check for additional pin holes and apply more spackling to any larger air bubbles. Sand the final coat of spackling and apply your first coat of primer.

Use epoxy primer and paint the part with epoxy or polyurethane paints.

Apply at least 3 light coats of clear to ensure your paint job will be fuel proof.

 

[user 115]

What are some names of good epoxy primer?

Thanks,

Charley

 

[Ken Hildreth]

Actually, I thin the Spackling compound with water, about to the consistancy of a slightly melted shake. I cant think of a better comparison. then apply it and wipe the excess off, I would let it dry at least three hours. then I sand it with 150 grit dry sand paper. any tough spots you may lightly use 100 grit. your final sanding should be done with a red scuff pad before you prime it. I have used this system successfully at least 5 times and it is the easiest method I have found. Dean Werges showed me this method about two years ago. works great. Ken

 

[Don Ferrette]

What are some names of good epoxy primer?
Thanks,

Charley

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PPG DP48LF is the best epoxy primer I've ever used.

 

[Ken Hildreth]

dp48lf is great sealing and filling and adheasion. BUt it doesnt sand real well. so after applying that you can get a great finish by applying two coats ppg k36 urethane prime this will make final sanding much easier. do your final sanding with paper no finer than 320 to ensure paint will stick well.hope this helps. Ken

 

[Terry Flynn]

What are some names of good epoxy primer?
Thanks,

Charley

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I use House of Kolor. KWIKURE Epoxy primer part # KP-2CFA and KP-2CFB

And I use house of kolor RU311 reducer just to thin it out a little. There are only two draw backs they only come in one quart cans and it's about 60 bucks for the two quarts, second is it's kind of a bear to sand. I sand it with 500 wet dry with a little bit of dish soap added to the water it helps it from plugging the sand paper. but on a positive note the stuff is like a rock when fully cured. and it gives a great finnish.

 

[user 115]

Thanks, guys..

Charley

 

[Don Ferrette]

dp48lf is great sealing and filling and adheasion.  BUt it doesnt sand real well. so after applying that you can get a great finish by applying two coats ppg k36 urethane prime this will make final sanding much easier.  do your final sanding with paper no finer than 320 to ensure paint will stick well.hope this helps. Ken

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You're right PPG DP primer is a ***** to sand, but it isn't really designed for sanding in the first place (read the product spec sheets). DP primers are not the ticket for filling, they should be shot one or two thin coats then paint goes right over that. For filling use PPG DZ3, it fills imperfections like pinholes great, dries virtually instantly & sands super easy. When I do a raw epoxy or polyester & glass hull like a scale boat I'll shoot the DZ3 & sand about 95% off until it looks nice & smooth like it's ready for paint. Follow that with 1 or 2 thin coats of DP then paint. If you're using the DP (or any epoxy primer for that matter) as a filler you're doing waaaay too much extra work & wasting alot of sandpaper too. :blink:

 

[dannyual767]

I like to build wood boats so I hope that these suggestions work for them as well?? For my latest hulls, I've got some epoxy sealer (kind of like a thinned out epoxy glue) that I'll use to seal the wood. Then I'd like to use the advice that you're giving!

 

[Don Ferrette]

I like to build wood boats so I hope that these suggestions work for them as well??  For my latest hulls, I've got some epoxy sealer (kind of like a thinned out epoxy glue) that I'll use to seal the wood.  Then I'd like to use the advice that you're giving!

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Seal it with West Systems then follow above steps. B)

 

[dannyual767]

I'm using a great penetrating sealing epoxy called Low V from Progressive Epoxy Polymers @ www.epoxyproducts.com . I've been using it for my Dumas SK Daddle and I'll use it for my father daughter project Lil Rascal.

 

[Mark Anderson]

The spackle thing is new to me. I just happened to pull a cowl and wheel pants for a quarter scale airplane out of the mold the day I read this, and gave it a try. Wow that works great. I thinned it with water and wiped it on with a paper towel. Sanded and primed, before I sanded the primer I repeated the spackel treatment to fill a couple of remaining holes. sanded the parts sealed and painted. The parts came out great. Thanks guys! great idea!

Mark

 

[Mike Stewart]

I like to use the light weight spackle, it doesn't shrink, and it is real light. At hardware store called "Patch and Paint". Add a little water (less than a teaspoon) this really makes it smooth and easy to work. Let dry 2-3 hrs. Sand. Easy Easy to work with.....light too.

 

[tunneldave]

Just remember that any spackle or wall board mud is water soluable for life even after drying. If you want to use this on your boats make sure it is sealed real well. There are many other products out there that would work better for something that is made to go in water.

Dave

 

[Mark Anderson]

So Dave what products/techniques do you use?

Mark

 

[Mike Stewart]

If the boats not sealed 100% that is a bigger problem than spackle getting wet. Isn't it?

<_< Think of the wet spackle causing paint to bubble as a warning sign of needed repairs. B) B) B) . just my 2 centavos.

 

[Rudy Formanek]

You might want to consider using exterior spackle (Yes, they do make it), it is turpentine based, not water based. I use Synkloids. Smells and works suspiciously like Violett's pinhole filler. Comes in metal pint and quart cans. I found mine at a non-Home depot type (ie small) paint store. Found the water base stuff pulls water when you wet sand and expands, even under primer. Shinks later slowly, usually after you thought you got everything nice and smooth. Seems like I still miss a small percentage of holes, no matter what filler/splackle I use. Next boat I will use the Synkloids and then try the thinned water based spackle to try and catch the last remaining ones. Rudy

 

[shifter11]

Actually, I thin the Spackling compound with water, about to the consistancy of a slightly melted shake.  I cant think of a better comparison. then apply it and wipe the excess off,  I would let it dry at least three hours.  then I sand it with 150 grit dry sand paper.  any tough spots you may lightly use 100 grit.  your final sanding should be done with a red scuff pad before you prime it.  I have used this system successfully at least 5 times and it is the easiest method I have found.  Dean Werges showed me this method about two years ago.  works great. Ken

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[Rudy Formanek]

My bad, I've had the spackle pull water even after topcoating, when I wet sand the primer (primer over spackle). Not suggesting to wet sand the spackle. Sorry. Rudy