converting gas to electric

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Dan Ellison

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2012
Messages
198
Where I live it is only electric so I am thinking of converting my gas hulls to electric. Most of my builds are in the 45" to 47" range so what size would I convert to, 8s , 10s ect. I also am in the process of scaling down my rigger and sport to 32" range for 4s or 6s. any advise , thanks!
 
I did this to a sprintcat 42 and ran it on 12s. I would get a 5692 minimum. You can try 8s or 10s or even 12s with one KV and prop up or down. I would stay in the 15k-20k RPM range ideally and keep using gas props so you dont need special stepped prop shafts.

I converted mine back to gas and couldnt be happier. Electric simply cannot compete with gas over distance in my experience. I pulled 7000w to get into the 60-65mph range. and got around 90 seconds of runtime from 1500g of battery. (I go by weight of battery instead of mah).

electric shines in the 4s-6s range. so your other builds will be pretty simple and fast. generally you build 4s hulls up to 34" or so. and 6s hulls 35"-40".

heres a prop calculator that goes a long way in helping figure out RPM and prop
https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/conversion.php
 
Last edited:
Dan,
I would go with the scaled down version first. The legal limit in NAMBA is 34" on a P boat. That is a 4S and very popular.
Mike
 
Where I live it is only electric so I am thinking of converting my gas hulls to electric. Most of my builds are in the 45" to 47" range so what size would I convert to, 8s , 10s ect. I also am in the process of scaling down my rigger and sport to 32" range for 4s or 6s. any advise , thanks!
Morning Dan,
I had spoken to you years ago about making one of your sport hydro hulls sized for a sport-40
I sure would like to see this as an option.
36 to 38" length
 
Dan,
I can't believe I'm hearing you talk about going electric! I do understand your situation though...
You have been the primo gas boat designer and builder seems like forever. I'm sure once you figure it out it will be great. A lot of really knowledgeable electric guys here that are more than willing to help. Please keep us posted on your progress...

Marty
 
Dan,
I can't believe I'm hearing you talk about going electric! I do understand your situation though...
You have been the primo gas boat designer and builder seems like forever. I'm sure once you figure it out it will be great. A lot of really knowledgeable electric guys here that are more than willing to help. Please keep us posted on your progress...

Marty
Thanks Martin, yes I've been building gas since its inception in the early 90's. I'll still be building gas boats but if I want to personally run close to home I'll have to venture into "electric" I've drawn up boats for almost every class including nitro but gas has been my home.
 
Hello Dan,

Many good options for power systems out there. First I would skim through the NAMBA rule book for FE classes. The Sport Hydro class in particular has some specific rules like the gas boats do. The most important is the length limit for the respective classes. 34" for P/P-Ltd and 40" for Q. S&T are are 60"

The P or P-Ltd class is a good place to start out. There used to be a huge difference between the open power system P class and P-Limited, but now with the better motors there is little difference unless you design a specific boat for high power and heavy weight of a full P system.

For P-Limited there is a very good power system recipe.
Motor: Tenshock 2240 6T or 7T. The 6T is a 2700kv motor better suited for riggers and the 7T is a 2300kv motor which works well for either. These motors come with a 38mm can diameter which needs to be machined down to 37mm to be legal in NAMBA. If you don't care just leave it as is. A lot of guys are sending old gold can Aquacraft motors to Don Huff who can rewind them. This is a very competitive motor and similar to the Tenshock 2240. If you would prefer a more inexpensive motor to begin with look at a Leopard 3674, TP3630 or a SSS 3674. Shoot for a KV range between 2200-2700kv.

If you want a full P system let me know and I can list out the full P power system options.

As for ESC's, if you want datalogging get a Castle X8S hydra. This is a 300A ESC that is also waterproof. If you don't care for datalogging and want a cheaper option many people run the OSE Raider 150. This is not quite as capable as the Castle ESC, but it's a good controller for the price. You will want to keep the all the wires short so layout is also important.

Lipos: For sport hydro I would recommend a pair of cells to straddle the motor and ESC. 3000-5000mAh per pack is what most racers will run. So you want a minimum of 6000mAh combined up to 10,000mAh total which is the NAMBA legal limit. For a rigger you might find a single larger capacity pack fits better. Many guys are running 6000-7800mAh single packs.

Look at SMC, Dinogy, RoaringTop and Turnigy Graphene. You will want 60C or better for most batteries unless you run a pair of large capacity packs then you can drop down to 45C.

Most guys run .150 cable with a teflon liner for the P-Limited power systems and .187 for full P. Build the stuffing tube from 1/4" brass and you have the option of running either cable.

That's a start. Keep the questions coming.
 
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