ATLAS VAN LINES BUILD

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Those you will probably have to make yourself as I've never seen them. I know RCBC has the scoop style ducting for the "Blaster" but for the ones on the inside, I think you're out of luck
 
Those look great. If I don't like the way the ones I am making turn out, I may have to order them. Thanks for the info.
 
I have the mirrors and cowl latches in place now and have the NACA ducts on order from Hobby King. Getting closer to sealing the hull. Mirrors need a little mork work to make them look even. All sanding for putting on the West Systems is done.

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Well, I put the boat all back together and found a couple of issues I will need to address. With all the back end of the boat being so crowded with mounts and things, I will have to rework the mounting for the rear deck cover. I had to cut away part of the inner brace in my hatch to clear the hump in the tune pipe. CG looks pretty good.This aside It is going pretty well on my mistake boat. Also for those interested, I weighed the boat and at this point it weighs 12 lbs. Enjoy the pics.

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12 is good. By the time you get it painted and dialed in, you will still be in the 12.5-14 range. All in all, looks good
 
Does anyone have a good tutorial for applying West Systems ? Where should I start on the boat ? Its also starting to cool down here, around 64 for a high temp. Thanks.
 
Thats good info, but what i need to know is where to start on the boat. top, bottom, side, where ? Do I do the whole top at one time, or a section at a time ? How liberal do I coat the surfaces ? Do i use brushes or foam painting pads ? How long do I wait to scrape with the credit card ? How much do i scrape ? What is the procedure and how long do I wait before i apply the next coat ? How many coats do I apply? What grit do I sand with in between coats ? Do I use wet or dry sandpaper ? Can you see where I am going with all these questions ? Its my first wood boat using Wesy Systems.
 
Okay, lets get started then. Here's my take, others may be different.

Start where: I'd start on the transoms since they are the smallest areas to be done. Next, I'd do the tunnel and work up the sides and finish with the deck. Do one area at a time so that you won't have to worry about wet epoxy being rubbed off while working on another area.

How thick: Try to keep the coats fairly thin as you're going to be taking some off later anyway. Make sure the area you're working on is completely covered so you don't have to go back and patch it later

Foam pads or brushes: I use the disposable metal handled brushes. No need to clean them afterword and they can put on a decent layer of glue fairly easily

When and how much to scrape: This really depends on you. When I did my Pak build back in 2011, I applied a thin layer and let it totally cure. I later sanded it down with 220 grit paper and from there moved to finer grits to finish it off. I'm sure there are others that will tell you to scrape and when, just never done that myself.

As far as the rest of your questions, I'll defer those to people that know more than I do
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Mark C.,

On the opening page of IW, right hand column at the very top of the page - there is a video by Greg Hahn of him doing his Qatar. Have a look at it - it doesn't come any better.

Boat looks GREAT. CHEERS !!! Bob
 
Thanks for the tip Bob. I have watched the Greg Hahn video. I do not intend on fiberglassing the boatwith cloth. So is the process the same with the exception of not using the fiberglass cloth on the boat. I also see a lot about the scraping process but have never seen it done. Can you fill me in on that.
 
Mark,

How did this boat run? Any weird tendencies? I am building the 77 Blue Blaster and was curious on how they perform.
 
Does anyone have a good tutorial for applying West Systems ? Where should I start on the boat ? Its also starting to cool down here, around 64 for a high temp. Thanks.
Use 206 slow cure hardener. Make full strokes on the pumps so you get the correct mix. Use a wide shallow mixing container (you can buy spendy epoxy boat containers but I buy junk Tupperware containers and plastic bowls at thrift shops) as it will take longer for the epoxy to go off than say a tall narrow container. Let dry completely and lightly sand between coats with 220 and wipe it off with a little denatured alcohol. Really work the epoxy into the wood grain and don't use anymore than you have to. Use paper toweling to sop up any puddles that form. Epoxy in itself and has no strength to speak of. Using more than needed is like throwing rocks in the boat and is a performance killer and in a crash isn't going to make any difference at all.

When I was building wood boats I would always use a cheapo aquarium pump and some T's and run them up inside the boat to dry it out between races. It will keep the wood rot at bay (no matter what you do wood boats will get small cracks inside) and keep the boat from gaining weight over the course of a season.

You are going to use a muffler right? Most clubs have a dB threshold you have to stay under.
 
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