pros n cons of sealing a wood frame boat.
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anthony_marquart
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depending on what you seal with,.. they may not fit up well.. may swell or gain thickness of adhesive in the joint areas..
steve wood
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yeah,you got to.klasskote, just before you sheet it
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I've done this with West Systems. Especially with exterior sides. Never had a boat fall apart, so I guess it must work.
JD
JD
Patrick Mulvany
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All my wood builds get the frame set up and true then seal with fiberglass resin prior to sides,bottom and top go on . then I seal the insides of the sides etc after install to make sure all has fitted. With the bigger boats there is more space to work with so it's not such a pain!! You may want to wear rubber gloves it may get messy!!
Later!!
Pat
Later!!
Pat
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( I pre assemble hull, then) i mark my joints and mating surfaces with a sharp pencil (then I disassemble parts) then fine-line tape them, ( this is done in preassembly and fitment) I fine line tape all the flat surfaces and joints, then I apply the west system, let it dry, pull the tape,then blade the surfaces smooth and scotch brite them. (when ready to assemble hull) I wet -out the joints and gluing surface, then and add some thickener and apply it to all surfaces. assemble and clamp. then I take a small foam brush and smooth the joints. if applying balsa re-inforcers in any joints, I do it now and re-brush the joints and make sure all is covered. I use the same methods when attaching the skins. I scotch-brite and re-seal the interior as I apply the skins. this may be a little overkill, but is super strong.
I updated for clarification of process I use
I updated for clarification of process I use
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Andy Brown
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I think Mike is talking about sealing the wood frames BEFORE doing any assembly.
I think it would be ok as long as the parts are scuffed off as you mentioned. However, the glue penetration of assembly would not go as deep into the wood.
For many joints that is not critical. For joints such as the transom, gluing into raw wood is best.
I think it would be ok as long as the parts are scuffed off as you mentioned. However, the glue penetration of assembly would not go as deep into the wood.
For many joints that is not critical. For joints such as the transom, gluing into raw wood is best.
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David Santistevan
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Andy,
I am building Blazer Lauderbach and that Is exactly what I did. So far so good. I used Systems 3 Clear Coat, let it soak in about 20 minutes and the wiped the excess off each part. I then used a straight edge blade to scrape the parts to make them like glass. Then I am just scuffing the parts as I glue and they are holding well. The inside of the boat is beautiful. No extra epoxy so it is very light. No problem with the glue holding so far,
I am building Blazer Lauderbach and that Is exactly what I did. So far so good. I used Systems 3 Clear Coat, let it soak in about 20 minutes and the wiped the excess off each part. I then used a straight edge blade to scrape the parts to make them like glass. Then I am just scuffing the parts as I glue and they are holding well. The inside of the boat is beautiful. No extra epoxy so it is very light. No problem with the glue holding so far,
Hydro Junkie
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In my builds, I normally don't coat anything until after the parts are epoxied together. After the epoxy has cured enough to hold the parts without clamps or tape, I brush on a lite coat of epoxy on everything with disposable paint brushes to make sure it's sealed. When it comes to installing the skin, I coat the whole inner surface and then secure it in place. That being said, on a Dumas boat that I'm working on, because the mahogany is so porous, I taped off the larger frames and coated them with West Systems mixed with microballoons using a putty knife. This was intended to keep weight down, force the epoxy paste into the wood and leave raw wood for gluing to
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Brandon Atwell
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Thats how we built our new tunnels from Carl Van Houten. We dry fit all the parts to make sure they fit, then did a thin coat of epoxy over all the pieces, snapped it together and let it cure like that. Joints that we knew took a hard beating, such as the transom or edges of the hull, we mixed a thick epoxy up and resealed them. Definitely cut down on weight, as our prior gas tunnel weighed in a tick over 23, while this one barely passed 17
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hi Andy and Mike, (clarification) I was talking before assembly . so you still have raw wood to raw wood when assembling. I updated the process for , I hope,
clarification[
