Search results

This is no insult to you Steve or Steves...I was invited to particpate on this board and liked what I saw...you are a part of that, Steve. Maybe it is us that feel a little insulted. I don't care about where they are posted...hell I guess I can chase info as well. Every board I play on has an...

We call those...exclusive deals, Kelly. Bottom line... it generates traffic, sales, etc, etc, etc. I know you can pick your choice where to post, Steve, but does that serve the rest of your customers. Will we only be able to buy your cells from Offshorelectrics in the future? The days of only...

Forget the belt drives that is outdated stuff. Fuller and a couple others have what is needed. I am considering building one as well.

:blink: ..... as soon as I hit send I knew I was going to get that one! Too funny.

I wet sand all body parts before priming or painting. Always did this on cars and I have never had paint come off or flake. I like 400 and on to 600 just for a light sanding. Then I blow all parts dry and do not wipe...it creates static Electricity...I tack off and shoot. Between colors and...

Good job to both of you...to the winner and the sponsor of the project. Fun stuff and we need more or it! Ralph, I read you story and wondered if I missed it or you do not use wet sanding. I always wet sand no matter if it is the color coat,primer or even the first clear coat. Just wondered...

Peter...very nice job! Is that the 22" version? Will you end up making the larger version as well?

Doug...I was in awe so much I missed the part of vac made cowl...nevermind :) ...and I love flat black hardware!! Paint holds up just fine on all mine so far but mine have been colors--- but I really like the black! You did good.

Doug, What is the cowl made from? Is that a prefab canopy from a plane? Looks light and fast. Great job!

I read some military specs that said either NICD or NIHI should be keep in a cool spot like a fridge (they used a temp like 45-50 degrees) Not sure why except I think it slows down the chemicals going on in there.

Steve, great to see you are doing the research. This is the stuff I love to see. Thanks for going the extra mile when you could be like most others and just sell the stuff.

Paul...if you are running hughey or Fuller struts then forget the Octura size (too long) and get one of mine made for those struts. I will have some done soon.

If adjustment is what you want to make easy then use the .98 stuffing tube set up with teflon and leave about the same teflon exposed at the strut. I did hear Doug was having problems with his and I think even broke or something. I pretty much figured it was not cleaned well or he did not use...

One other point I missed...wire is MUCH better balanced for high rpm running. How many flex cables blew at the SAWS? Even a bulky .130 cable won't handle the power much over 16 cells. Weight is also an issue.

Wow...I missed the REAL message in Dicks post. He and Paul agree on something!!! I'm kidding...just had to give you both that one. ;)

There is nothing hard about adjusting these drives. I understand Paul does not run teflon, nor do I. Not using teflon is a plus for free running drives. Not for everyone. Any boats I have built for people I usually use teflon because it is easier to adjust. I agree...you won't find a faster...

Paul, excellent work and excellent weights! I suspect you will run a Turbo tranny with a big BL motor?

My only thought is on nitro is that the load range and vibration a nitro hits is rough compared to an electric...heck just starting them they could scream several thousand rpms and then we throw it in the water running a 2000 rpm. Never do that with FE. Most of my comment is based on Shock...

I am not sure I would try it on a nitro. It may be fine for the .12.15 motors but anything higher should run .130 or larger cable. The collet at the motor would be the hard part to make it work.

Nope...I have to learn that one