Zipp 30" tunnel update

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John,
We have another prototype [#4] out and running with a RC boater that hasn't had any experience with RC tunnels before now....
I wanted to see what info I could get back from a RC outboard tunnel newbie......The boat is a FE and all the info I have received back is very positive....
Just 2-3 days ago I received a phone call saying he had run 4-5 battery packs thru the boat with absolutely no problems......
The boat went out , ran hard [est hi40's low 50's] and came back to the beach without rowing for it once.....That included wide open turns on a IMPBA course This was with a Zipp "P" motor and speed control on 4S and a 442 /3 blade prop.......Boat came back to the shore with no temp in the motor or ESC.....
Prototype #5 will hopefully be run this weekend , weather permitting ......This boat had a major design change that should make the building sequence much more user friendly and not affect the boats handling in anyway.......so far the new Zipp 30 tunnel appears to be "bullet proof"......I am very pleased.....
All that I believe that is left is coming up with a cowl that will give the boat its own identity.......If all goes well some tunnel myths are going to be challenged by this boat......Just like the JAE what really counts is where it touches the water...not the eye candy out of the water and it will still be under $100.00.....👍👊
I will keep you informed.......
Rod Geraghty
PS: Today I will contact the owner of prototype #4 and ask him to consider making a post as to his experience with the new Zipp 30" tunnel......
 
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With the above request from Rod. I am going to list the results from testing the newly designed tunnel that he is referring to as prototype #4. First off he is correct in saying that I have had no outboard tunnel experience at all. I did own a Dumas 3.5 tunnel 20 plus years ago. But, that was only because it was basically given to me. I think that I maybe put it in the water twice at that time. And, by no means am I the most technical, smoothest, and precise driver of any boat. Those days are long gong.
What I have experienced has been nothing but interesting and exciting. The boat is set up almost exactly the way it was intended to be. Rod, Mike Walker, David Hall and I have had several conversations throughout the building and setup process. I tried to adhere to the lessor expensive route in the configuration process to show that this can be an excellent entry level boat for a novice such as me. And, I am pushing the envelope to show that this is probably going to be one one the best tunnel designs to hit the water. Hopefully, it will entice the advanced boaters to take a look and show extreme interest. Believe me, this boat has NO bad manners designed into it!
Like I previously stated. And, the main reason that I have gotten Involved in this program. Is because I am just like many of you out there. Plus, I am not a big FE advocate. But, I do realize that something has to be done in order to save this wonderful hobby and competitive sport. So, the plan was to build a boat that was simple enough to build. Have a hull that would be reliable and stable enough to not have to retrieve it after every launch. Build a competitive boat on a somewhat limited budget. And, resemble a boat that people can associate with. That is where I came in. It looks like a real boat! It acts like a real boat! Plus it is predictable and for the most part it is like a boomerang. It comes back to where it started from!
As it is right now. The boat is running a Leopard 36mm X 7mm motor with a ZTW 200 amp controller. The controller is overkill for that size motor. But my intent was and is to put a 40mm motor on for testing as well. I tried it earlier but, have a water jacket clearance issue with the drive that I am using. I am using a Fred Howe "Lawless Quickshot " 3.5 drive converted to FE. The drive is machined so that not adaptor is required. The motor bolts directly to the lower unit reducing weight and induced roll forces in the turn. Fred has been very helpful and willing to assist me in this configuration. We are working on a couple variants that I think will improve performance even more. This part of the build is the only place that I went above where maybe a limited budgeted person would not go. I am sure the the testing with the stock K&B unit will turn out just as good. If all goes well the data should be available form that setup this weekend.
The design of the boat is very efficient and at multiple trim settings has never indicated that it was going to blow over on the straights. I have used many custom cut and pitched two blade props. But, thus far the best prop is an out of the bag cheap CNC 42mm 3 blade. This is another reason the boat can be a "budget boat". Just sharpen the edges of a stock out of the bag prop and off to the races you can go. Plus, almost guaranteed a place on the podium if that where your intent to be is. With any and all prop configurations. I am getting no load on the motor or esc. I have not put a gps receiver or radar on the boat. My guess that is usually pretty accurate. Is that the boat is consistently running upper 40's to low 50's with no noticeable speed drop-off as the batteries are depleted. the boat will turn under full power without any noticeable nose tuck inside a standard buoy course. On the other hand. I have turned this boat extremely sharp (15 ft. turn) at 3/4 throttle. Even then probably six out of eight times it makes the turn head back in the opposite direction. The other two times it did tuck the nose and flip. That was testing the extremes of the design. Only a poor driver like me would be doing that anyway. The pond water where I have been testing is 41 degrees F. The most temperature rise has been 34 degrees F. This shows that there is much more performance potential to be unlocked should you want to. Also, I do believe that this efficient hull design could be reduced in power performance and perform flawlessly as well. 3S power and probably a 440/3 blade prop would be great for a first time boater.
Let's face it guys. If possible, we all need to try to preserve and revive this sport in any way we can. I am not leaving nitro for sure. But, I said that if I am going to be involved in this venture. It has to be a boat that we all can look at and relate to. Whether a novice or a person that has been around boating for a long time. Plus, have a boat that you can have fun with. I think that we have accomplished our goal hands down. Now it is up to you all out there to help in whatever way possible to promote our hobby.
 
I just ran #5 last night. A few very slight changes. I also am not a tunnel guy I set it like all the above. P spec motor, K&B lower 4S batt. pack Also not an FE guy with out thinking first run I threw it in the water so once I got by the stupid stuff the boat ran great. Every thing on the boat but the lower unit came from Zippkit. Gona have to agree with every body above it is a fun fool proof boat.
 
John....i know right...who would ever thought a wood tunnel boat would have a wait list...i guess that is a excellent sign for intrest in the tunnel class..and I would guess most will be going electric...but...i need another build project for the winter.
 
I've got an extra NIB OS .21 outboard...Joe's kits are GREAT! Where do I get in line?

** Edit** I just e-mailed...
 
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Julio
I ran prototype #1 with an O.S. stock motor. It runs very well. With the changes to the new version it will be better. As soon as I can get a production prtotype, I will have it running with the O.S.
This will be a very good running affordable boat.

Mark,
What prop(s) did you use?
 

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