Wood Finish Help

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csmatheng

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2008
Messages
141
Hey guys (and gals :) ), I have completed two wooden pit boxes, a starter box and a fuel box. I am in the process of staining them and wanted to know what I should use to seal them with. Should I use a thinned down epoxy solution like we often do on our riggers or should I use a polyurethane gloss finish? I am uncertain as to whether the gloss finish would hold up to the fuel but I wanted to get some opinions. The polyurethane would be the outdoor type so that it would withstand the sunlight. What do you think????

Mike
 
Hey guys (and gals :) ), I have completed two wooden pit boxes, a starter box and a fuel box. I am in the process of staining them and wanted to know what I should use to seal them with. Should I use a thinned down epoxy solution like we often do on our riggers or should I use a polyurethane gloss finish? I am uncertain as to whether the gloss finish would hold up to the fuel but I wanted to get some opinions. The polyurethane would be the outdoor type so that it would withstand the sunlight. What do you think????
Mike
My first choice would be to seal it with epoxy, then spray an automotive clear.

My second choice would be to double up on the epoxy.
 
Hey guys (and gals :) ), I have completed two wooden pit boxes, a starter box and a fuel box. I am in the process of staining them and wanted to know what I should use to seal them with. Should I use a thinned down epoxy solution like we often do on our riggers or should I use a polyurethane gloss finish? I am uncertain as to whether the gloss finish would hold up to the fuel but I wanted to get some opinions. The polyurethane would be the outdoor type so that it would withstand the sunlight. What do you think????
Mike
POlyurethane for home use will not hold up to gas, nitro, fuels. I have tested many and they start to degrade within a few minutes. Epoxy, what would be good and also SPAR varnish. The epoxy will also become structural and help keep the hull together
 
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i use valspar water base poly on all my boat stands and on pit boxes, with no ill effects. and i'm not known to be "neat". i do like my stuff to look good and stay that way!
 
Thanks for all the info guys. I am using Minwax stain on the pit boxes. I think I may go with either the Valspar that Steve mentioned or double up on the epoxy that Brian mentioned. Either one of those should get the job done. I just want the boxes to hold up and last so we'll see :)
 
Thanks for all the info guys. I am using Minwax stain on the pit boxes. I think I may go with either the Valspar that Steve mentioned or double up on the epoxy that Brian mentioned. Either one of those should get the job done. I just want the boxes to hold up and last so we'll see :)
The water based polys have a different composition than the oil based. the valspar will hold up fine. I forgot about those LOL.
 
minwax has water based & traditional (varsol?) based stains & clears. they are not compatable. if you are going with the water based valspar, use water based stain. learned this the hard way............... sealing/brushable epoxies don't work well over water based stains, either. another lesson learned the hard way.
 
minwax has water based & traditional (varsol?) based stains & clears. they are not compatable. if you are going with the water based valspar, use water based stain. learned this the hard way............... sealing/brushable epoxies don't work well over water based stains, either. another lesson learned the hard way.
What you need to do first is to use a wood sealer over the stain. (sanding sealer) that will seal in the stain and allow the use of what ever finish you wish to use............( Im an old cabinet maker)
 
What pre-finish work besides sanding needs to be applied to wood before painting with gelcoat.

Doug
 
What pre-finish work besides sanding needs to be applied to wood before painting with gelcoat.
Doug
gel coat is epoxy or polyester resins with color added. you would need to seal in the stain also
 
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minwax has water based & traditional (varsol?) based stains & clears. they are not compatable. if you are going with the water based valspar, use water based stain. learned this the hard way............... sealing/brushable epoxies don't work well over water based stains, either. another lesson learned the hard way.
What you need to do first is to use a wood sealer over the stain. (sanding sealer) that will seal in the stain and allow the use of what ever finish you wish to use............( Im an old cabinet maker)
NOW you tell me :p :lol: ! just kidding, thanx for the info, should make life easier this winter build season :D .
 
minwax has water based & traditional (varsol?) based stains & clears. they are not compatable. if you are going with the water based valspar, use water based stain. learned this the hard way............... sealing/brushable epoxies don't work well over water based stains, either. another lesson learned the hard way.
most of the wood work in my house is finished with 211 minwax oil base stain, finished with valspar water base semigloss finish. no problems whatsoever
 
interesting, when i use water based minwax stain, valspar non water base finish or epoxy sealer has always fish eyed badly..........light sanding & wiping with both prepsol or acetone before clear didn't help. same between coats of clear.
 
interesting, when i use water based minwax stain, valspar non water base finish or epoxy sealer has always fish eyed badly..........light sanding & wiping with both prepsol or acetone before clear didn't help. same between coats of clear.

X10, sanding sealer is your friend
 

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