WOF HOOKS BAD !!!!!!!!!

[Ed.R]

28 " WOF Hooks VERY Bad . I think the tip of my sponson hit My prop .

When I check the bottom of the sponsons there are flat for about 13 + " and has a sharp edge . I'm thinking this is the problem . Is there anymore experianced WOf builders with an opinion . If so would just rounding the edge fix it .

I'm in need of some 2 cents

Ed.R

 

[RodneyPierce]

28 " WOF Hooks VERY Bad . I think the tip of my sponson hit My prop .

When I check the bottom of the sponsons there are flat for about 13 + " and has a sharp edge . I'm thinking this is the problem . Is there anymore experianced WOf builders with an opinion . If so would just rounding the edge fix it .

I'm in need of some 2 cents

Ed.R

Ed, you want a nice sharp edge pal. As far as the hookign goes, I think it seems to be somewhat of a problem for some people. One of the boats in our group runs good, the other hooks badly. The one that runs good has KB power, the one that hooks has CMB power. Might be a speed thing, but im not sure. JD shoudl be here to comment on this, im sure he will.

 

[Mike Byer]

from what I saw, stumble blocks are needed, unless you have some on it already, but I don't remember seeing any. Good race for a couple laps anyway.

Mike B

 

[Ed.R]

from what I saw, stumble blocks are needed, unless you have some on it already, but I don't remember seeing any. Good race for a couple laps anyway.

Mike B

No stumble blocks... That was fun for a little while .

Ed.R

 

[Mike Byer]

The Villain has them, and drives pretty good.

Mike B

 

[Ed.R]

The Villain has them, and drives pretty good.

Mike B

Yeah I noticed that , and alot of them on IW have them as well. I'll try that first before I get the roto - zip out. Kinda kick myself in the butt for not having them there today to try out.

Ed.R

 

[Mike Larson]

Hey Ed... Im testing a prototype for a freind with massive hooking issues.... Im getting it out a little at a time, First move, engine closer to boat..= better next, trimmed skeg on lawless=better yet.... The hook does not rear its head when the boats on the pipe, and rockin,... hence a balance issue (?) Heres the deal..... at low speeds the motor will not lift the rear of the boat enough to keep the hull from catching on the edge... your idea of dulling it has merit to a certain extent, I may experiment with just this theory..... also, I once solved the issue on a boat by makin stainless trim tabs for the rear, to help hold the boat higher in the water at slow speeds, and, as a bonus it prevented blowoffs to an extent..... Im not a tunnel expert, it takes time, and a lot of rowin' Good luck mike

 

[Ed.R]

Hey Ed... Im testing a prototype for a freind with massive hooking issues.... Im getting it out a little at a time, First move, engine closer to boat..= better next, trimmed skeg on lawless=better yet.... The hook does not rear its head when the boats on the pipe, and rockin,... hence a balance issue (?) Heres the deal..... at low speeds the motor will not lift the rear of the boat enough to keep the hull from catching on the edge... your idea of dulling it has merit to a certain extent, I may experiment with just this theory..... also, I once solved the issue on a boat by makin stainless trim tabs for the rear, to help hold the boat higher in the water at slow speeds, and, as a bonus it prevented blowoffs to an extent..... Im not a tunnel expert, it takes time, and a lot of rowin' Good luck mike

Hey Mike,

Moved the motor Back seemed to work A little better . Wouldn't it raise the nose if the motor was farther back ? I built mine with a 1" inset and made spacers so I could move the motor around . I have a 3/8 block in it know. Did you try stumble blocks ?

Thnks for the info

Ed.R

 

[RodneyPierce]

Hey Ed... Im testing a prototype for a freind with massive hooking issues.... Im getting it out a little at a time, First move, engine closer to boat..= better next, trimmed skeg on lawless=better yet.... The hook does not rear its head when the boats on the pipe, and rockin,... hence a balance issue (?) Heres the deal..... at low speeds the motor will not lift the rear of the boat enough to keep the hull from catching on the edge... your idea of dulling it has merit to a certain extent, I may experiment with just this theory..... also, I once solved the issue on a boat by makin stainless trim tabs for the rear, to help hold the boat higher in the water at slow speeds, and, as a bonus it prevented blowoffs to an extent..... Im not a tunnel expert, it takes time, and a lot of rowin' Good luck mike

Hey Mike,

Moved the motor Back seemed to work A little better . Wouldn't it raise the nose if the motor was farther back ? I built mine with a 1" inset and made spacers so I could move the motor around . I have a 3/8 block in it know. Did you try stumble blocks ?

Thnks for the info

Ed.R

Ed, Mike has tried stumble blocks, and I dont think it helped the situation if I remember right. Mike is one in our crew that hooks, one of my other buddys doesnt hook at all, and runs great, but it isnt near as fast as mikes boat either, sounds like we are all working on it tho, im sure between everyone with this problem, we can figure somethign out!

 

[Jerry Dunlap]

The designer of the JD WOF 28 highly recommends the use of the front stumble blocks.

JD

 

[RodneyPierce]

The designer of the JD WOF 28 highly recommends the use of the front stumble blocks.

JD

LoL, straight from the horses mouth there Ed. Install teh blocks my friend, see what that does for you.

 

[Ed.R]

The designer of the JD WOF 28 highly recommends the use of the front stumble blocks.

JD

OK......... there you have it I'll defintly get them on there.

Read an interseting post I found from a search from Rod Gerahty about rounded edges .

Ed.R

 

[Mike Larson]

Yo, Ed. The builder made two different sets ( in height ) for me, They did not make a difference, from front of boat to back, turn side only, off side only,.... The boat will catch the edge..... granted, I did not want to sand the edge from the sponson prematurely, I plan to..... My theory is that only the last maybe 4 inches needs the edge,( I may step it also) and it is the forward part causing the hook. Action: the boat wont hook on the pipe, Reaction: the tunnel is "flying" holding said edge from touching the water. Settle down for the turn.... look out...... high speed turn, OK..... Dunlap's sponson's build differently than a villian, ie: the sheeting sequence is different, ( Jerry?) at least on my proto, so, its not like I wont solve the problem,Ive gained on it this season substantially,..... Why, a sport motor makes the hull run like a dream is beyond me....... I spaced mine to sport build specs to start, and quickly learned lessons..... Action: light, high Hp sport motor... Reaction: Easier for motor to achieve rear lift of boat, balancing on the fulcrum so to speak, causing little or no hook..... Heavy mod motor/pipe/oiler/lower..... Not enough Hp in todays market to overcome the gravity of this situation,,,,,,,, Im lookin into higher lift props..... trim tabs possibly........ I also have a suspiscion the location of the center of the airfoil may be of help...... I had some feedback from Gene on installing 1/8 inch rails, too.... Gene? Anyway, I know little, Row after em, Christ, if I didnt have to fight some trim issue it wouldnt be all that much fun, now, would it? Help from the tunnel gods on here would be a blessing..... Anyone? My thanks do go out to Marty S. He built me a fine boat to butcher, Im tryin like a mofo to make it plane as good as it looks...... Do run the motor ( mod) as tight to the transom as you can get it, for now, deep as you can ie; serious dia reduction in the prop, keep the r's up. Thats the point Im at, winters coming, theories to be tested..... Good luck mike

 

[Ed.R]

Mike ,

Mine is a JD WOF and the designer himself told me to install stumble blocks so stumble blocks it is . I made a 34" JD WOF it runs Great no stumble blocks needed . The only thing I did with that boat was play with motor heights . NO HOOK at all . There both sport motor set ups as well . Not sure if it would be worth the time and expense to build a piped boat just to race it 2 maybe 3 times a year . But then again thats what the 40 tunnel does . Thanks for everyone response . I have to go and get them stumble blocks .

Ed.R

 

[norm j]

hey you might want to bring down the throw on your steering servo

there are different ways to do this,one way is to use your transmitter

if it has the proper fine tunning adjustments,or move your clevesses

(on your steering horn) closer to the srew, of course that would have

to be even on both sides of the screw,there is the possiblity that

your steering is over responsive!

good luck!

norm j

 

[snowdog-2112]

hey you might want to bring down the throw on your steering servo

there are different ways to do this,one way is to use your transmitter

if it has the proper fine tunning adjustments,or move your clevesses

(on your steering horn) closer to the srew, of course that would have

to be even on both sides of the screw,there is the possiblity that

your steering is over responsive!

good luck!

norm j

I was beginning to think the same and more. These boats are not designed to make a hairpin turn, 30ft radius at the smallest. You no longer need to set the sponsons on these little guys. Keep the boat on plane and it'll turn just fine. They are designed for all out speed.

Have fun!

Snowdog

 

[GRoth265]

Ed; Listen to JD and put on stumble blocks, But do it with silicone so they can be cut off and a different set can be put on easilly, The angle of attack may be anywhere from 3 to 8 degrees depending on what the boat likes. I made a couple different sets and used 2 sided tape at the lake to try them out. Also keep the edges sharp. Greg

 

[Geraghty]

Ed; Listen to JD and put on stumble blocks, But do it with silicone so they can be cut off and a different set can be put on easilly, The angle of attack may be anywhere from 3 to 8 degrees depending on what the boat likes. I made a couple different sets and used 2 sided tape at the lake to try them out. Also keep the edges sharp. Greg

Remember to make the angle of attack of the block 3-4 degrees positive and 1/8th inch deep where the back of the block intersects with the sponson bottom.Have 1/16" of back and inside overhang on the bottom sheeting of the blocks.

 

[dghutt]

For what it's worth, I've found that the prop can make a big difference on my Hot Shot Sprint / K&B3.5 boat's propensity to hook. When I run an Octura x437 3-blade it handles fine, but a Prather S220 2-blade with no other set-up changes hooks all over the place. Can't steer it at all. I assume one generates more lift than the other or something. Needless to say I stick with the Octura.

I installed stumble-blocks to avoid submarining in rough water, but didn't notice much change in the hooking department.

Best of luck.

Dave