wildthing instructions

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Carl
Build the boat on a flat table. Stand up the bulkheads on the flat sides and attach the bottom of the boat to the bulheads building the boat upside down on the table. Start with the first two rear bulkheads, then after the glue drys pull the front of the boat down to the table and glue the two bottoms together. After the bottom is attached to the bulkheads you can turn the boat right side up and add the pieces of wood strips to the top of the sides. Cutting small cuts into the little blocks of wood will make them conform the the sides of the boat easily. Sand down the wood pieces so they form a good fillet for the deck to attach to. Attach the deck after you get the radio box and engine rails built. It's a really easy boat to build. Don't forget to put some floatation in the boat. Styrofoam or pool noodles work fine. I wrote a magazine article on the boat and how to build it but I don't remember what issue of R/C boat modeler it was in.
 
I am getting ready to glue a 26" wildthing together this weekend. I would like to drill the stringers for the engine before I assemble it. Does anyone have a dimension or measurement to reference for engine placement? What about choice of drive, is a stinger better than a strut? Any and all help is appreciated. Thanks
 
I am getting ready to glue a 26" wildthing together this weekend. I would like to drill the stringers for the engine before I assemble it. Does anyone have a dimension or measurement to reference for engine placement? What about choice of drive, is a stinger better than a strut? Any and all help is appreciated. Thanks
I have always used a strut or just let the stuffing tube exit the transom without a strut on small boats like that. Two layers of brass tube sticking one inch out the transom will work just fine. Only problem is no adjustment, so you need to know the exact location that works for the boat. I don't know if they make stingers that small.
 
I am getting ready to glue a 26" wildthing together this weekend. I would like to drill the stringers for the engine before I assemble it. Does anyone have a dimension or measurement to reference for engine placement? What about choice of drive, is a stinger better than a strut? Any and all help is appreciated. Thanks
I have always used a strut or just let the stuffing tube exit the transom without a strut on small boats like that. Two layers of brass tube sticking one inch out the transom will work just fine. Only problem is no adjustment, so you need to know the exact location that works for the boat. I don't know if they make stingers that small.
Thanks John, I appreciate the input. I believe the stinger from an Aquacraft SV27 would work, but your idea seems pretty straightforward and easy so I might give that a try. Is 33% of overall length a good starting point for engine location?

Thanks again,

Scott
 
I am getting ready to glue a 26" wildthing together this weekend. I would like to drill the stringers for the engine before I assemble it. Does anyone have a dimension or measurement to reference for engine placement? What about choice of drive, is a stinger better than a strut? Any and all help is appreciated. Thanks
I have always used a strut or just let the stuffing tube exit the transom without a strut on small boats like that. Two layers of brass tube sticking one inch out the transom will work just fine. Only problem is no adjustment, so you need to know the exact location that works for the boat. I don't know if they make stingers that small.
Thanks John, I appreciate the input. I believe the stinger from an Aquacraft SV27 would work, but your idea seems pretty straightforward and easy so I might give that a try. Is 33% of overall length a good starting point for engine location?

Thanks again,

Scott
31 to 33 percent cg is good. Ron is right on the strut vs stinger. The strut can be adjusted up,down,neg,and pos. I prefer struts. You can move the engine forward or back a bit but look at the cg for final adjustment. The cg usually comes in close to the engine flywheel.
 
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^^^^^^^^ That's the guy that I learned a lot about struts from when I had issues with a hull that I built. I tried using a Speedmaster stinger strut on a 26" hull and it gave me fits as it was too low on the transom. On my Wild Thing .12 as you can see I just used a regular inexpensive Octura strut with the fin removed and never had a bit of trouble with it.

With the CG at 33% you may not even need trim tabs. I had some on mine intitially but after a few runs they came off. I don't think that it will need a turn fin either as I'm only running a tiny one and it'll turn as tight as I want it to.
 
I went thru my r/c boat modeler magazines today and found the article on the wildthing build. October 2000 issue. You can probably order that issue at r/c boat modeler.
 
I went thru my r/c boat modeler magazines today and found the article on the wildthing build. October 2000 issue. You can probably order that issue at r/c boat modeler.
Many thanks John and Ron, I appreciate all the helpful info.

Scott
 
Well i finished my wildthang off with goldleaf 23k Red pinstripe and clear. All lettering and red is hand painted. John I don't know if you ever saw it finished.I know you saw the video over on jims boat dock. What you think. I am going to build one to match it. Either for my .67 or .90 not sure yet



 

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I have a copy of wildthing construction article in pdf. If u still want it, Please give me your email adress.

DR
 
Well i finished my wildthang off with goldleaf 23k Red pinstripe and clear. All lettering and red is hand painted. John I don't know if you ever saw it finished.I know you saw the video over on jims boat dock. What you think. I am going to build one to match it. Either for my .67 or .90 not sure yet
I like it! Good job.
 
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