TS3 FE setup

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One more bit of advice, based on past experience....

when you are shopping for contacts, one way to tell "quality" ones from "cheap copies" is to look at the barrel design. Doesn't matter the diameter of the bullet if the entire thing isn't in contact with the female side (boy, the sidetracking we could do with THAT statement!).

The better quality connectors, besides being made of better material, will also have a small relieve machined into them at the base of the bullet. This allows the contact to be shaped such that it contacts the inside of the female side it's entire length, and not just at the tips. You can tell if you have solid contact because, if you don't, the male bullet will "wiggle" a bit inside the female side.

Here are a couple of pictures to illustrate. One on the left is quality, one of the right is questionable:

2012038111416_407342 5.5mm gold.jpg lcsem0002.jpg

I'm going to stop now... as this particular post is getting a bit uncomfortable...
default_wink.png
 
I should add that I learned about timing and racing in the mill from the IMPBA style racing at the Winter Nationals. I still use these lessons in NAMBA races. I don't see any reason that current electric classes can't have a few laps of mill time. The P spec riggers now can run two mill laps in 30 seconds. We typically start electric races with everyone floating in position at the 30 second clock. You need to make at least a full lap to the start. If people wanted, the rules could run a 1 minute clock with at two laps required. Today's batteries shouldn't have any problem with that. Below are the results of some connector tests by Joerg. The nice table doesn't copy well in this forum, but the information is there

Lohring Miller

[SIZE=13.5pt]Plug[/SIZE]

[SIZE=13.5pt]Contact resistance[/SIZE]
[SIZE=13.5pt]Weight[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Noname 4mm gold connectors[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]0.5 - 2 mOhm[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]about 3.6g[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]AMP 2mm gold connectors[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]approximately 0.65 mOhm[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]about 0.4g[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]Nettle 4mm gold connectors (aluminum)[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]about 0.4 mOhm[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]about 1.2g[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]AMP 4mm gold connectors (twisted lamella)[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]approximately 0.25 mOhm[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]about 3.6g[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]Nettle 3.5mm gold plug[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]approximately 0:24 mOhm[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]about 1.3g[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]Schulze / LMT 3.5mm gold plug[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]approximately 0:22 mOhm[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]about 1.3g[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]Silver Kontronik 3.5mm plug[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]approximately 0:22 mOhm[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]about 1.1g[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]Nettle 8mm gold plate connector (Type S)[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]approximately 0:17 mOhm[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]approx 22.0g[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]Nettle 5.4mm gold plate connector (Type S)[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]about 0.16 mOhm[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]about 6.4g[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]Nettle 6mm gold plate connector (Type S)[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]approximately 0:14 mOhm[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]about 4.4g[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]MP Jet 3.5mm Gold Plug[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]approximately 0:14 mOhm[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]about 2.4g[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]old Hopf / LRP Silver 3.5mm plug[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]about 0.12 mOhm[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]about 1.3g[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]Original red Deans Plugs[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]approximately 0:10 mOhm[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]-[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]Plettenberg 6mm (lamella in socket)[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]approximately 0.09 mOhm[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]about 6.0g[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]Nettle 6mm plate (Type S) / LMT 6mm jack[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]approximately 0.09 mOhm[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]about 4.4g[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]NEW 6mm gold connectors (first generation)[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]about 0.08 mOhm[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]about 2.9g[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]MP Jet Gold 5mm plug[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]about 0.08 mOhm[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]about 6.5g[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]Schulze / nettle 6mm twin fin (aluminum)[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]ca 0075-0085 mOhm[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]about 3.5g[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]Nettle 6mm gold connectors (type L 2009)[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]approximately 0065 mOhm[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]about 3.2g[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]BK 5.5mm Gold Plug[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]about 0.06 mOhm[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]about 6.1g[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]LMT 5.5mm polished brass plug[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]approximately 0.05 mOhm[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]ca: 6.0g[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]Castle Creations 5.5mm gold plug[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]approximately 0.05 mOhm[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]ca: 5.3g[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]Nettle 6mm (L type 2010) / LMT 6mm jack[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]approximately 0.05 mOhm[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]ca: 4.0g[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]LMT 6mm gold connectors (very tight)[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]approximately 0:04 to 0:06 mOhm[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]about 4.1g[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]Nettle 8mm gold connectors (extremely tight)[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]about 0.03 mOhm[/SIZE]​
[SIZE=12pt]about 11g[/SIZE]​
 
Last edited by a moderator:
One more bit of advice, based on past experience....

when you are shopping for contacts, one way to tell "quality" ones from "cheap copies" is to look at the barrel design. Doesn't matter the diameter of the bullet if the entire thing isn't in contact with the female side (boy, the sidetracking we could do with THAT statement!).

The better quality connectors, besides being made of better material, will also have a small relieve machined into them at the base of the bullet. This allows the contact to be shaped such that it contacts the inside of the female side it's entire length, and not just at the tips. You can tell if you have solid contact because, if you don't, the male bullet will "wiggle" a bit inside the female side.

Here are a couple of pictures to illustrate. One on the left is quality, one of the right is questionable:

attachicon.gif
2012038111416_407342 5.5mm gold.jpg
attachicon.gif
lcsem0002.jpg

I'm going to stop now... as this particular post is getting a bit uncomfortable...
default_wink.png
Darin,

I started to get a little excited on that post !!! HAHA
 
The yellow connectors I used are Amass XT90H. I used them because that is what came on the batteries I bought. Should I be worried?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The start method for most of the larger (Nationals, etc.) NAMBA FE Races is that you must run at least one lap of Mill. So, like Grim says, we start from the shore and run one Mill lap, to the clock.
 
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