Swiss WIB bearings what are they.

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tmunn

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2006
Messages
1,560
I have seen this is posts and was suggested to me in a thread I started wondering what they are and if they are available at most bearing shops.

Are they better quality. higher bearing count or better cages or carriers than Japanese or chinese bearings.Do they cost a lot more.

Do you guys use them or just the cheapies.

Thanks

Terry
 
I always start out wanting to buy Swiss bearings from RaceCraft but they have always come as a mix

of Swiss, German and Japanese for all the Thunder Tigers I've built.

For my Picco's they always came WIB from RaceCraft. For high performance mod motors you want the best bearing

you can get and tend to them often with the best oil you can get.

I sure hope Ron stays in the buiz cause he has been the Best source for the better cut of bearings out there.

I sure would like to hear from him on here, I have about 5 new 3.5cc O/B's to test this spring and 3 of them

had their bearings changed before they have even been started,$$$,ching,ching,ching :lol:
 
I always start out wanting to buy Swiss bearings from RaceCraft but they have always come as a mixof Swiss, German and Japanese for all the Thunder Tigers I've built.

For my Picco's they always came WIB from RaceCraft. For high performance mod motors you want the best bearing

you can get and tend to them often with the best oil you can get.

I sure hope Ron stays in the buiz cause he has been the Best source for the better cut of bearings out there.

I sure would like to hear from him on here, I have about 5 new 3.5cc O/B's to test this spring and 3 of them

had their bearings changed before they have even been started,$$$,ching,ching,ching :lol:

Ditto on motors ready to run. I have two 3.5's and two 7.5s that I won't put fuel in until I replace bearings. Racecraft is on hold so without a trip to the Alps I guess Boca or K&B is the choice. ??????????
 
When I ran OPS, PICCO, and K&B's I always used Boca Bearings, used there Hi speed, Hi heat bearings, they were the Phenolic retainer veriety, and always had good luck with them.

Haven't run anything but what you get from Jerry Crowther, and Tidewater, since I started running CMB's

I will say, I tried Boca Bearings Ceramic bearings, tried them in 2 different engines, (OPS 67 & 45) both engines needed new bearings after the first race on them (1 weekend)

So at that point, that was the end for me, especially when I called Boca, and told them of the situation, I was told OH WELL???

Rick
 
Guys

I live in canada.I used the link posted above and have gone to the web site and see they are a division of a canadian company.

I contacted them for their Canadian distributor and I'll see what they have to say.

I only have the 3 and 3.5 cc nitro engines at this point and do not paln to go larger with the nitro but perhaps gas.

I have experienced some bearing failure on the 3 cc o.s. due to adding castor oil to my fuel to make what i though was an oil with more protection and I do not think it mixed properly.

The other time the bearings rusted due to poor cleaning on my part.

I swithed to Red Max fuels late last summer with 20% synthetic oil and have had no bearing failire since other than the one I stored with condensation in the engine.

I have spoken with a local bearing supplier who has severla sources of bearings and he has not heard of WIB but now I will call him with the name of the Canadian company they are associated with. Rotoprecision (Canada)Inc

Thanks guys i'll pursue the canadian route.If that does not work i'll try another path.

Is there a brand name that I should be looking from or is the name WIB the trade name for them or does WIB stand for the company that sells them.

Terry
 
Rick

Could you e-mail me Jerry Crowther's contact info.

I started to read your after run procedure and then got busy in the garage till late last night

I'll respond on the weekend

Thanks

Terry
 
When I ran OPS, PICCO, and K&B's I always used Boca Bearings, used there Hi speed, Hi heat bearings, they were the Phenolic retainer veriety, and always had good luck with them.
Haven't run anything but what you get from Jerry Crowther, and Tidewater, since I started running CMB's

I will say, I tried Boca Bearings Ceramic bearings, tried them in 2 different engines, (OPS 67 & 45) both engines needed new bearings after the first race on them (1 weekend)

So at that point, that was the end for me, especially when I called Boca, and told them of the situation, I was told OH WELL???

Rick
I had about $500 worth of the ceramics myself. The ones I tried failed immediately, and the rest were so tight and rough that they could not be used. They are Junk. Still have them by the way. No recourse
 
I ran Bocca Ceramic Bearings in my CMB 45 hydro in a PT Sport 40 all year with no problems. Also, I put them in my Mac .21 in my B mono no problems with either engine to date. Lucky I guess? However I would like to try some WIB's when the time comes.

Josh-
 
In this neck of the woods SKF and NTN have a good reputation how do they rate for the nitro boat applications.

Terry
 
I got an email from Ron beofre Xmas and he stated he had some family illness he had to attend to for a while but he would be back later in 2007.
 
In this neck of the woods SKF and NTN have a good reputation how do they rate for the nitro boat applications.
Terry
Terry

They will work just fine. The main thing is you need a C3 fit and Polyamide retainers. The C3 fit is not problem to find as it is a standard use bearing in this country but the Polyamide retainers are harder to find from those companies in this country.

Mark
 
thanks guys i am going to see what i can find locally before I explore elswhere.

I made a few calls and will make a few more now that i know what I am looking for.

Thanks a lot

Terry
 
Terry,

In post #7 the castor did not ruin your bearings. I think your maintenance routine did that, not the oil.

Try some Risolone Engine Treatment you won't have that problem again.

Happy New Year,

Mark Sholund
 
Shoboat,

When I added the Bakers castor i took out 2 rear crank bearings within 2 quarts of fuel.I called the another fuel manufacturer and told him what had happened and he asked me to check the fuel again to see if there was any cloudiness in the fuel.He said if there was this was not a good thing and based on his families experience making fuel for since the 60's that the castor may have been bad .I also scuffed a couple P/L's on that fuel as well..

I dicontinued using the fuel i mixed with castor,switched to Red Max and have not had a problem other than one caused by my own poor engine flushing routine.

I am working on a new procedure thanks to fellow members here.

What affect does the Risoline Engine Treatment have on the engine life and bearings and how much treatment per quart of fuel would you recommend.

I will see if i can find some here in Canada..

I am currently running Red Max 30% Nitro with 20% Synthetic oil.

Thanks

Terry
 
Terry,

Not familar with Baker's castor. How much did you put in your fuel? The Risolone is just for after run oil, after you

blow your motor out with WD-40 or some other Water Dispersant lubricant. It sounds like you will be getting on track with

your new after-run routine. :lol: 20% oil is way too much for a 21 motor,but if it works well for you, go for it. :lol:

Happy New Year,

Mark Sholund
 
I added enough castor to the other fuel I was using to take it up to 18-19% oil content.

We were using this fuel in our .18 o.s. and I had planned on using it on our 21's as well.

The fuel manufacturer i am using now will blend whatever oil content/blend i want but I beleive he said their standard boat fuel was 19 or 20% oil.

When I ordered it I forget what i ordered now it could be 19% oil but we feel it gives us added protection.

Is this thinking wrong.Will it hurt anything or just not necessary.

I have 9 gallons here now so it looks like i'll be using it up :rolleyes:

Mark,

You have been at this a hobby a while if I sent you a couple pics of a small problem i am having with my ss20 and engine/pipe install would you have a look at them.

if so e-mail me at

[email protected]

Thanks

Terry

Happy New Year.
 
If I understand correctly, WIB was sold to Rotoprecision here in the Toronto area, I called them about a year ago and most of the bearings we use are only made if a run is bought. Can't remember but I think it's at least 100 bearings of one size. :(
http://www.wib-bearings.com/en/news.htm
Terry,

An entire "run" from most bearing manufactures is 1,000 to 10,000 pieces. I purchased 100 pieces of 6000 (.3937X1.0236X.3150) & 100 pieces of 6002 (.5906X1.2598X.3543), "special clearance", P6, bearings from Henry Nelson. These were made by & purchased from WIB of Canada. "Special radial clearance" for the 6000 bearing of (.0011 to .0015) & for the 6002 bearing of (.0014 to .0018) allows for heavy press fits. The press fit on the 6000 bearing is .0005 & the press fit on the 6002 is .0008. Buying the entire run ensures that all the balls used are the same size, within (+-.000010). These bearings had snap on polyamide cages which allowed them to be easily disassembled for ceramic ball replacement. Ceramic balls were purchased from Cerbec. I have tested & used these bearings for many years (6 to 8% oil), with no bearing failures. Individual bearings are tested for clearance & roundness before disassembly.

One problem with selecting bearings with a C/3 radial clearance (.0004 to .0010) is; if the bearings come with a lower radial limit, they would fall into the standard bearing class C/0 which has a radial clearance of (.0001 to .0007). Selecting a C/4 bearing would give (.0007 to .0013) radial clearance, eliminating the problem of a bearing that is to tight, which is the cause of most bearing failures! All of the above numbers apply to bearing ID's of 10 to 18 mm.

Jim :) :) :)
 
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