RC Marine Designs Super Sport 45

[aussieboater]

Hi,

As the topic says how hard are they to build or fit everything into the hull as in engine mount stuffing tube set rudder and strut up

Thanks

Brad

PS: anyone have pics of theres please send them to me [email protected]

 

[Rich Jones]

Hi,

As the topic says how hard are they to build or fit everything into the hull as in engine mount stuffing tube set rudder and strut up

Thanks

Brad

PS: anyone have pics of theres please send them to me [email protected]

Very simple to set up. Just follow Phil's instructions and the boat will run well. You want to make sure you have a good turn fin though (ie Dick Tyndall, Virginia Craftsman). You want one w/ a hook that curves in toward the bottom of the hull. Any amount of left rudder at half speed and above and the boat will turn into a plane.

 

[Josh Stollfuss]

Check out this link for lots of good tips. http://www.rcboatmodeler.com/RB/reviews/super_spt45.asp

Josh-

 

[P THOMAS]

Steve Carter posted these SSP45 building pictures.

https://www.intlwaters.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=210

The boat comes with good setup info and the hull is marked for the strut and drive shaft holes to be cut.

Worst part for Aussis is the shipping cost, box is over size and cannot be sent by post to AU

 

[piper_chuck]

I've got an older one that I bought from someone else: https://www.intlwaters.com/gallery/albums/userp...9/SP40_Side.JPG

I've read through Phil's directions, doesn't seem hard at all. Personally, I'm more intimidated by trying to paint one to look good than handling the mechanical installation. This is one of my favorite boats. I really wish some other people in my club had sport 40s so I could race it more often.

 

[captwalter]

I had an old Phil Thomas Sport 40. It needed a considerable amount of weight in the nose to keep it on the water. The boat was wrecked and I bought a new one from Phil. Within a day or so I had the new one ready to go. His instructions and the setup of the boat when you receive it from him make it a very simple operation. I noticed when installing the cunards on the front that the round side went on the bottom and flat on top. Tested the boat and it did not need any weight up front. It was and is perfectly balanced. I wonder how many racers put them on upside down? I know we have three or four of them in my District with them upside down.

Perry

 

[P THOMAS]

Check out this link for lots of good tips. http://www.rcboatmodeler.com/RB/reviews/super_spt45.asp

Josh-

Hey Thanks for finding that one. That review is probally 10 years old. Anyone know the Bob Hastings that wrote the review? I think it was Larry Forman from Illinois that built that boat? Maybe Larry was just being anonymous. Larry was a great guy it was sad to know he passed on few years ago.

PHIL

 

[aussieboater]

Hi Phil

Whats your estimate cost for shipping ? Otherwise i may be able to get it out here in a shipping container.

Thanks

Brad

 

[P THOMAS]

Hi Phil

Whats your estimate cost for shipping ? Otherwise i may be able to get it out here in a shipping container.

Thanks

Brad

It is about $20 in the US Im thinking $200 air freight to AU

 

[aussieboater]

Hi Phil

Whats your estimate cost for shipping ? Otherwise i may be able to get it out here in a shipping container.

Thanks

Brad

It is about $20 in the US Im thinking $200 air freight to AU

Phil,

Mate i will see what i can do, getting one here another way as i love your sport 40 looks very nice.

$200 is crazey hey if they would just look after the model boater we would all have heaps more fun sending here there and everywhere,

i will get back to you soon

Thanks

Brad

 

[Ron Olson]

If I can build one, anybody with a little experience can! Probably the hardest parts were the front wings and the air slots in the cowl.

 

[piper_chuck]

If I can build one, anybody with a little experience can! Probably the hardest parts were the front wings and the air slots in the cowl.

Don't forget that rectangle in the bottom, word on the street is that's extremely difficult to cut!

 

[teddyd]

I've got an older one that I bought from someone else: https://www.intlwaters.com/gallery/albums/userp...9/SP40_Side.JPG

I've read through Phil's directions, doesn't seem hard at all. Personally, I'm more intimidated by trying to paint one to look good than handling the mechanical installation. This is one of my favorite boats. I really wish some other people in my club had sport 40s so I could race it more often.

If I can build one, anybody with a little experience can! Probably the hardest parts were the front wings and the air slots in the cowl.

Don't forget that rectangle in the bottom, word on the street is that's extremely difficult to cut!

MAYBE IF YOU PUT THE STRUT ON THE TRANSOM, YOU WOULD HAVE MORE BOAT TO RACE SINCE THAT HOLE IS SO DEFFICULT TO CUT. :lol:

 

[P THOMAS]

I think I can come up with some sort of square hole drill bit :lol: :lol:

 

[Ron Olson]

Chuck, the cut-out for the stuffing tube hole wasn't that bad. I used my Dremel with the right-angle drive attachment and a large reinforced cut-off wheel. The ends can be drilled out first to get that part out of the way.

I haven't taken that right-angle drive off my Dremel since I got it and wonder how I did anything without it.

The "Shark gills" engine vents in the cowling were trickier. I used some small pieces of 3/8" steel banding and added double-sided tape to the back. I made up several pieces then stuck them to the cowl and used them as a guide for the cut-off wheel for straight cuts.

I suppose that someone could use a saber saw to cut out the bottom.

As far as strut mounting goes, I mounted my Speedmaster strut to the inside of the transom, not the bottom mounted as I didn't like the idea of bolt heads sticking out down there. It was still legal doing it this way. Button head allen bolts would make for a smoother bottom if you can find them in stainless steel.

 

[piper_chuck]

Chuck, the cut-out for the stuffing tube hole wasn't that bad.

Sorry, I forgot to turn on the sarcasm flag. My post was a dig related to the thread lobbying for a change of IMPBA sport 40 rules to allow the strut to hang off the back. The way they've made it sound, cutting that little rectangle is very difficult!

I used my Dremel with the right-angle drive attachment and a large reinforced cut-off wheel. The ends can be drilled out first to get that part out of the way.

I haven't taken that right-angle drive off my Dremel since I got it and wonder how I did anything without it.

I hear you on that one. About a year ago I finally replaced my 25 year old single speed dremel with a new variable speed one. The kit I bought came with the right angle drive. It's a great addition.

The "Shark gills" engine vents in the cowling were trickier. I used some small pieces of 3/8" steel banding and added double-sided tape to the back. I made up several pieces then stuck them to the cowl and used them as a guide for the cut-off wheel for straight cuts.

I suppose that someone could use a saber saw to cut out the bottom.

It would have to be a really fine blade or it could tear up the glass. I think the dremel is the way to go, less vibration.

As far as strut mounting goes, I mounted my Speedmaster strut to the inside of the transom, not the bottom mounted as I didn't like the idea of bolt heads sticking out down there. It was still legal doing it this way. Button head allen bolts would make for a smoother bottom if you can find them in stainless steel.

McMaster-Carr has stainless button head allen bolts, but I think the transom is the way to go, it's stronger.