Mike Hughes said:
Armorall on the axles worked great for me. I do believe they don't allow it, but hard to prove. Just make sure you get all the excess off with a rag.Mike
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Mike, the first line in a Scout oath is "On my Honor". Showing the boys how to cheat isn't really the objective.
This is what my son and I did & they are all legal. My son won @ the regional level 4 years in a row. Our state did not have a state race.
1. Turn the nails on a lathe to cut the flashing off. Take off as little as possible because reducing the diameter of the axle makes the wheel flutter.
2. Cut the inside of the head @ a 5 degree angle to reduce the contact area on the wheel.
3. Polish the axle with 1 micron paste.
4. (If you have access to a lathe, use it. The scout mandrel is no good unless you modify it.) Locktite a piece of brass tubing over the mandrel to create a pocket to hold the outside of the wheel hub.
5. Index the madrel with a dial indicator before you mount the wheel.
6. Index the screw head once it's mounted.
7. Cut just enough off of the O.D. to clean it up to make sure you keep it above the minimum O.D. True the inside edge of the wheel. This is more important than you may think. I'll explain later. Don't worry about polishing the outside of the wheel.
8. Instead of using the slots on the block, flip the block over and drill individual holes for each axle on the top of the block with a 5 degree camber. This allows the wheel to run on the inside edge of the wheel and offers the least rolling resistance. it also keeps the wheel in alignment.
9. Extend the wheel base as long as the rules allow.
10. If your rules allow it, paint section of the block that the wheel contact the body with "Slip Plate". This is a paint with a graphite base. It can be polished to an extremely slick surface.
11. When placing the axles in the block, use a .030 feeler gauge to set all of the wheels to the same depth.
12. If you can find it, use the BSA graphite in the blue tube. it's much better than the teflon or any other graphite we found.
13. If the rules allow, make hub caps out of round stickers. This will hold in the graphite. The graphite also sticks to the glue creating a bearing for the nail head to role on. It keep's the wheel in alignment and makes the car run true.
14. Add the weight as far back as possible to take advantage of the pondelem effect caused by the track's transition. Hollow out as much of the front of the car to make it as light as possible.
15. Using a level glass surface of at least 5 feet long, draw a straight line with a grease pincel the full length of the glass. Roll the car on the line, if it moves off of the line before reaching the end, twist one of the front axles a 1/4 turn and repeat. If you have to rotate it more than 3/4, go to the other side and repeat. The front wheels are more critical because they have the pressure on them while the car is accelerating. We used a CMM to align the wheels
Lastly, if you have the means, make a 2 lane track and build more than one car and test, test, test and don't let the other dads touch the car! My son started on his cars the day after the last race of the year.
I've attached a photo of his final car. It's the natural wood colored one. On this particular car we filled the inside of the wheel cavity with epoxy to add weight which was allowed at the time. My son won every heat by more than .5 seconds so the next year the rules were amended.