Jerry Wyss
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Tim, I use clear cause of all the comp-u-cut lettering on my boats.
O/T question
- Thread starter TimD
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Tim
I have never had problems buying small amounts of paint - but it is usually more expensive to buy small lots. As I said I'm not very familiar with PPG paints but they are available here, and yes they are the same (same company, same paint)
When it comes to 2 Pak paint there is no such thing as cheapo paint - some of it is just nicer to work with than others. As I said I have had good luck with ProTech paints and they are less expensive than others. You can get non-isocyanate paints at Supercheap but I haven't tried them and can't comment on how well they work.
Practice on what you want to paint - th worse that can happen is that you need to re-sand and respray it. At least you'll know it's sealed. If your really worried about weight just use 2 Pak poly urethane directly on the wood.
I have never had problems buying small amounts of paint - but it is usually more expensive to buy small lots. As I said I'm not very familiar with PPG paints but they are available here, and yes they are the same (same company, same paint)
When it comes to 2 Pak paint there is no such thing as cheapo paint - some of it is just nicer to work with than others. As I said I have had good luck with ProTech paints and they are less expensive than others. You can get non-isocyanate paints at Supercheap but I haven't tried them and can't comment on how well they work.
Practice on what you want to paint - th worse that can happen is that you need to re-sand and respray it. At least you'll know it's sealed. If your really worried about weight just use 2 Pak poly urethane directly on the wood.
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"Don,
I'm mainly interested in painting wooden rigger's and the appropriate cowls in either ABS or 'glass. All of my boats get painted in the yellow /orange /red sunburst style. Sounds to me like the PPG DP48LF & DCC Concept colours would be the lightest / most durable way to go. Correct?
Hopefully it's the same stuff here as it is in the States."
That's how I do it. Seal 'em with West Systems then DP primer & paint. I do clearcoat the tops of my sponsons as the graphics are ink on vinyl, definitely not fuelproof.
PPG paint is not cheap & as for small quantities pints are about as low as you get. But if you're like me & paint your "fleet" that same paint scheme you'll find it ain't so bad, especially for a tough as nails paint job. B)
I'm mainly interested in painting wooden rigger's and the appropriate cowls in either ABS or 'glass. All of my boats get painted in the yellow /orange /red sunburst style. Sounds to me like the PPG DP48LF & DCC Concept colours would be the lightest / most durable way to go. Correct?
Hopefully it's the same stuff here as it is in the States."
That's how I do it. Seal 'em with West Systems then DP primer & paint. I do clearcoat the tops of my sponsons as the graphics are ink on vinyl, definitely not fuelproof.
PPG paint is not cheap & as for small quantities pints are about as low as you get. But if you're like me & paint your "fleet" that same paint scheme you'll find it ain't so bad, especially for a tough as nails paint job. B)
Jerry Wyss
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Hey, Don and GTR,,I gotta confess that I don't know what "West Systems" is. I've heard Jerry Dunlap talk
about it now and then,,,What is it?
about it now and then,,,What is it?
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West Systems epoxy, #206 hardener & #105 resin, it's all I'll use to build & seal wood. Can be found at most good marine & boating supply houses as well as "in the know" hobby shops.Jerry Wyss said:
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Tim
Just to confuse the US guys - I never have any problems buying 250ml lots of paint from my locaql supplier. They supply most of the trade around here and are happy to mix small batches for me. You will need to learn about the Group system of coloring and how that effects pricing - higher the Group, higher the price. Guess where reds, oranges and some yellows fit.
Just to confuse the US guys - I never have any problems buying 250ml lots of paint from my locaql supplier. They supply most of the trade around here and are happy to mix small batches for me. You will need to learn about the Group system of coloring and how that effects pricing - higher the Group, higher the price. Guess where reds, oranges and some yellows fit.
Hey Tim, go to a panel beater and get paint from them, try to find one that is open on Saturdays. Some mix their own paint, these are the ones you want to find. After you have bought or bartered (slab will get you 250-500 ml) with them a couple of times ask if they have any "left overs" you could get cheap. Let them know what your painting and don't forget the reducer! Without reducer it goes on too thick and weighs too much. I haven't had to "Buy" paint yet!
I got a 4mm nozzle that sprays Gel Coat, messy but thin when you need less weight.
I got a 4mm nozzle that sprays Gel Coat, messy but thin when you need less weight.
Update.
I just scored my HVLP gun (1.4mm tip) and an in-line filter / regulator. Just need to get a few fittings, a filter at the gun, some paint and I'll be good to go.
I wonder how many times it will take me to paint a 1/2 decent job
Any tips or hints specific to painting riggers?
I just scored my HVLP gun (1.4mm tip) and an in-line filter / regulator. Just need to get a few fittings, a filter at the gun, some paint and I'll be good to go.
I wonder how many times it will take me to paint a 1/2 decent job
Any tips or hints specific to painting riggers?
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ClayGlover
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inTimidator, you may want to do a guide coat first if you want to fill any imperfections that show up more clearly after painting one solid color. Or you can use a high build primer and sand it back off. Primer adds weight real quicklike B)
what are you painting mate?
what are you painting mate?
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Hey Clay,
One of the guys I race with has his boats called intimidator. Don't think he'd like me taking that name on Wild Bill
Got a few sets of sponsons, a 21 tub and a 67 rigger tub to do. I'm most likely going to use the PPG system as the guys all reccomended it!
Tim.
One of the guys I race with has his boats called intimidator. Don't think he'd like me taking that name on
Wild BillGot a few sets of sponsons, a 21 tub and a 67 rigger tub to do. I'm most likely going to use the PPG system as the guys all reccomended it!
Tim.
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Jerry Wyss
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I'm following you around Tim,,I just like being next to "The Fire".
The DP48LF primer is a key part of the process,, the "48" is for white, "50"is
grey and "40" is another color can't remember. Clay is right,,you can end up
adding a lot of weight,,,But you can use the pimer as a filler on small parts
that don't have a lot of imperfections. This primer can sometimes can sand
like Granite (Rock) but you can add some 870 reducer to it for easier sanding
and for some flexable parts. The DP (primer) is hard enough that it makes
good lines, like on the sponson bottoms when used like filler.
I like to put on the primer which shows the highs and lows and add filler where
needed and go to work on it real good and create a whole new searface.
This is where I like "Base Coat" (DBU),,it's practically all pigment, and covers
the "leopard" looking piece you just sanded. Do a good job on the DBU and you
can clear after 20 minutes,,Done. Uh,O,,I think I here Don Coming
The DP48LF primer is a key part of the process,, the "48" is for white, "50"is
grey and "40" is another color can't remember. Clay is right,,you can end up
adding a lot of weight,,,But you can use the pimer as a filler on small parts
that don't have a lot of imperfections. This primer can sometimes can sand
like Granite (Rock) but you can add some 870 reducer to it for easier sanding
and for some flexable parts. The DP (primer) is hard enough that it makes
good lines, like on the sponson bottoms when used like filler.
I like to put on the primer which shows the highs and lows and add filler where
needed and go to work on it real good and create a whole new searface.
This is where I like "Base Coat" (DBU),,it's practically all pigment, and covers
the "leopard" looking piece you just sanded. Do a good job on the DBU and you
can clear after 20 minutes,,Done. Uh,O,,I think I here Don Coming
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:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:Jerry Wyss said:
How'd ya know....
Hey if basecoat/clearcoat works good for you that's cool. Here's another twist on primer for ya- use DZ3 primer surfacer to fill you imperfections & sand most of it off. The DZ3 sands super easy, unlike the DP48LF which is like sanding a brick when it's cured. Then follow the DZ with a thin coat of DP which you won't have to sand. Follow by your choice of PPG topcoat & there you are. B)
Jerry Wyss
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I must confess Don I haven't used a couple of the things you mentioned, I've been
using , basically the same three components for 20 years, except they took the lead out of DP and DAU several years ago. The DCU 2000 series is about the best
clear I've ever used, it's "wetting" action is a real treat and much easier layer on
light coats than the old leaded Acrylic Urethane,,without getting the weight up
that is. (I don't know,,,I could just "hear" you coming) I got a good laugh tho'.
Jerry
using , basically the same three components for 20 years, except they took the lead out of DP and DAU several years ago. The DCU 2000 series is about the best
clear I've ever used, it's "wetting" action is a real treat and much easier layer on
light coats than the old leaded Acrylic Urethane,,without getting the weight up
that is. (I don't know,,,I could just "hear" you coming) I got a good laugh tho'.
Jerry
impba3548
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I use a 5 hp 2 stage compressor @ 150 psi, run mainly a plasma cutter & occasionally an impact wrench with it, I use a dryer composed of a 2.5" stainless steel piece of tubing with clamp fittings on each end (I work in the dairy industry), the can is about 12" long & is filled with rolled up kotex maxi pads, no moisture ever & I use this thing on anybodys air when Im portable or my own & have never had a problem with moisture...
I can email a picture if youre curious as to what it looks like.
toilet paper filters are good too, & I think the disposable diapers would work too.
The kotex filters work with the kotex brand maxi's only, the thin ones wont work, they pack in the end & plug the filter outlet.
We used these filters to keep the oily water etc out of the gas burners on the plastic carton machines....
mike
I can email a picture if youre curious as to what it looks like.
toilet paper filters are good too, & I think the disposable diapers would work too.
The kotex filters work with the kotex brand maxi's only, the thin ones wont work, they pack in the end & plug the filter outlet.
We used these filters to keep the oily water etc out of the gas burners on the plastic carton machines....
mike
