nitro in my engine my mistake

[tmunn]

It's a long story but nitro got in my new engine while i had the boat in a funny position while glue was drying.It went in past the need valve into the engine and out the carb and across the basement cushion floor .

I have the mess cleaned up but i would rather not run the engine until i am ready to run it for the summer probably 8-10 weeks away.

I took the Liner out and opened the carb up and dumped any remaining fuel and pretty much filled the crankase down past the side of the piston where the liner normally is situated and carb bore with ATF ...

Will this keep my engine in new condition till spring ??

Terry

 

[FloridaScaleBoater]

Terry,

I would fill the crankcas full of WD-40 a few times and rotate it around by hand, making sure to get the bearing REAL good.

Dump it out, repeat.

Then add your usual storage oil

 

[Tom Foley]

You can also stick any old pipe on it , loop a belt on the flywheel , have some one squirt your favorite lube in the open carb while you spin the motor over with a starter holding it upright into the trash can with some old newspapers in it . I have a flushing adapter that screws in the glow plug hole attached to a 3 foot hose with a small weight on the end , it just dangles in the can . this allows you to really flush the sucker out .Just did two motors yesterday like this . Personally I would run the motor with remote water supply just to hear it run and smell the Nitro !! :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[voodoohydro]

You can also stick any old pipe on it , loop a belt on the flywheel , have some one squirt your favorite lube in the open carb while you spin the motor over with a starter holding it upright into the trash can with some old newspapers in it . I have a flushing adapter that screws in the glow plug hole attached to a 3 foot hose with a small weight on the end , it just dangles in the can . this allows you to really flush the sucker out .Just did two motors yesterday like this . Personally I would run the motor with remote water supply just to hear it run and smell the Nitro !! :lol: :lol: :lol:

Tom did u make that Flushing Adapter or buy it? If u bought it could u tell me where i would like to have one.

Thanks, Keith

 

[Andy Greene]

You can also stick any old pipe on it , loop a belt on the flywheel , have some one squirt your favorite lube in the open carb while you spin the motor over with a starter holding it upright into the trash can with some old newspapers in it . I have a flushing adapter that screws in the glow plug hole attached to a 3 foot hose with a small weight on the end , it just dangles in the can . this allows you to really flush the sucker out .Just did two motors yesterday like this . Personally I would run the motor with remote water supply just to hear it run and smell the Nitro !! :lol: :lol: :lol:

Tom did u make that Flushing Adapter or buy it? If u bought it could u tell me where i would like to have one.

Thanks, Keith

I got mine from John Otto- Technology Hobbies-

813-651-1840

Andy

 

[tmunn]

I have them too called "blow plugs " and i blow my engine's out into an old sullivan tank.I was more concerned with leaving any nitro in the engine.

I am going the WD flushing and the afterrun oil route..Thanks evryone.

aeromarine sells the blow plug and my buddy dan made one using and old blown plug and some copper tubing.

He would prolly love to pust a pic.He likes doing that...

Dan ??

 

[Martin Hamilton]

I know a lot use wd 40 in their engines, Ive used it myself in engines. But Nova rossi state on their web site not to use wd 40 or such lubricants that contain silicones in these engines. Any thoughts on this.

Martin

 

[larcor69]

crap terry, I guess it's no good now, you can send it to me ...LOL

 

[Tom Foley]

You can also stick any old pipe on it , loop a belt on the flywheel , have some one squirt your favorite lube in the open carb while you spin the motor over with a starter holding it upright into the trash can with some old newspapers in it . I have a flushing adapter that screws in the glow plug hole attached to a 3 foot hose with a small weight on the end , it just dangles in the can . this allows you to really flush the sucker out .Just did two motors yesterday like this . Personally I would run the motor with remote water supply just to hear it run and smell the Nitro !! :lol: :lol: :lol:

Tom did u make that Flushing Adapter or buy it? If u bought it could u tell me where i would like to have one.

Thanks, Keith

I got mine from John Otto- Technology Hobbies-

813-651-1840

Andy

Thats what I was going to say !! I dont know how any one can be without one after using one for a while , no more face full of swill and you can flush the hell out of the motor

 

[Ron Olson]

A "Blow plug" is easy to make. Drill out a fried plug and solder a piece of brass tubing in there, 1/8" if I'm right as it's been a while since I made one. Add some fuel tubing to it and if you have one laying around, one of those clunks that most of us toss away that come with Sullivan or other tanks.

 

[Dan Hydro]

There you go Terry just for you.

You mean like this Ron!

Dan.

 

[jetpack]

tmunn,

Best thing I think is to make up some clean 80/20 mix and hook it up to your fuel nipple and use a blow plug like everyones talking about with your starter and keep it 1/4 throttle to draw some vacuum through the needle. Then use some after-run oil if you like.

Just going down the carb with oil won't necessarily clean the fuel passage, and I've seen bad needles because of it. It's best to follow where the fuel first goes into the motor when your trying to flush, then there's no missed caves if your not tearing down.

Using the fuel nipple and feeding the mix through the carb will atomize better than pooling the crankcase, and I think you get a better fog through the motor.

You can find small quanities of pure methanol by buying a yellow bottle of HEET from the gas station and a small bottle of Sig Castor from the hobby shop. Mix it the way you want, but I mix 80/20 and use it for a small seperate tank of fuel on the last fire of the day, switching to a hot plug to run it.

This way your not wearing your starter, battery, or putting any bad loads on your motor because of it. Pharmacy castor will work also if you're not constantly using 80/20 mix to run with, if it's more handy for you than Sig.

The mission is to get the nitro compounds out of the motor. That is what does the damage. The castor film can take care of the methanol (or whatever moisture it can draw) that is left inside the motor and because of that, after-run oil is up to your choice I guess. I don't use it except for long storage.

Martin H,

WD-40 is a mix of 15% mineral oil and the rest kerosene (basically). The high solvent content will over-flush the bearings of the right oil, and then after that if given enough time, a sticky mess. Baked mineral oil is nasty sticky. Using WD-40 would primaily be a bearing concern I would think, and lead to a "dry" bearing danger where the balls skate inside the races instead of rolling like they should.

David

 

[Tom Foley]

Jet .....you are overthinking this simple procedure a little bit......this is no different than what we do everytime we run our boats ....... sometimes the motors sit idle for many months and are ready to go when they come out of the box