my new twin .67

Intlwaters

Help Support Intlwaters:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Cant remember the name of the thread but it had a lot of good info on twin setups . Maybe someone canned it to your thread. Have fun pass ya later Charlie
 
William,

I have a small book that I use for my recordings. Had a propane meter and now have a Boris meter. More accurate. If the propane tank is getting low it will not give as accurate readings as a full tank = pressure drops.

In my book I record the date, location, weather conditions (sunny, cloudy, hot, cold, etc), boat, engine, pipe & length, glow plug, prop, fuel mix (ie. 50%, 60%), temperature, humidity, air density and finally the flow setting, That gives me a very good reference point at all times and I can get it very close with a little bit of the 3rd channel. Every one of those items WILL affect the needle setting.

One last thing to remember, the normal nitro content is based upon a true temp of about 70 degrees. If it is 90 degrees, the nitro content drops several points. Example: 50% at 70 degrees temp will become about 45% at 92 degrees temp. Using the readings I noted above, if a day starts out at 65 degrees in the early morning, and gets to 90 degrees in the afternoon, you can reset the needle to the flow setting that is optimal regardless of the current weather. It takes a little bit of work at first to get the data but it will make the racing much better and successful.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
receivers came today. waiting on 6v receiver batterys and some props

twin receivers.jpg
 
If you want the motors to live....I would Highly suggest that you use MAC 13cc pipes on those motors.

That current set up will have you looking for parts that are not out there. It will be FAST..Rev to the Moon...And them the Rods will be gone...

Not to say that they will not go with the larger volume pipes....But they will give you a chance until you talk with someone that can help you

Keep the motors alive...

Oh...I still have my H-48 from my 80's.....I would suggest H-32's @ 6.0........But What would I know...
default_ph34r.png
 
Last edited by a moderator:
thanks BigChuck this is my first twin. I not know much about picco motors. don't want to destroy them. until I get cmb .67 evo in it
 
thanks BigChuck this is my first twin. I not know much about picco motors. don't want to destroy them. until I get cmb .67 evo in it
Will try get new NR 67DD or NR91DD reason good price than CMB67 $$$
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I went with the novarossi .67 motors waiting on the shim kits to arrive.

thanks to Ron Shaw for all his help.

nava .67.jpg
 
Looking good William!

The H-48's that someone recommended will be FAST props, but not the best place to start.

Here is my list of recommendations:

Firstly, I would highly recommend 40% nitro in the Novarossi 67's

H-32's stock to start with. Cup up to as much as 6.0" when ready for more speed....as Charles suggested.

We ran 91 mph with the MAC 67's in that boat using the H-32 props.

H-38's would also work well. Stock to start with and then cupped up for more speed. These props would be my top choice.

The 1667's will work, but are a bit big in blade area. We ran them on that boat with MAC 84's cut to 64 mm and cupped 5.8"

A full blade set would be ok at around 5.2" cup on the 67's.

40% nitro will make tuning easier than 50% or 60% and will run faster than most think.

I got two reports in the last two weeks from customers that are running fast on 40% nitro.

One is running a CMB 101 Evo in an Old 90 SG. Ran 91 mph in oval trim.

The other is running a CMB 91Evo, in a new 80 SGX-2 with H-50 prop. Ran 99 mph yesterday in oval trim on 40% nitro. Speed checked on Stalker radar.
 
thanks for the all the info andy. I have 50% I run. I have the h32 props h48 props and 1667 props cut to 64mm cup 5.0 soon I get head shim kits I will be testing it.

those picco motors will be coming out. were is a good starting point with flow meter with these nova's
 
thanks for the all the info andy. I have 50% I run. I have the h32 props h48 props and 1667 props cut to 64mm cup 5.0 soon I get head shim kits I will be testing it.

those picco motors will be coming out. were is a good starting point with flow meter with these nova's
What is the carb bore on the 67 Nova?
 
Beautiful boat William. ​

I've had several SGX's and they are fantastic running boats.

Some years back Andy himself posted the following tips for setting up that boat (twin SGX) and I saved them to my own notes so I will pass them on hoping they may assist you. Andy can verify (if he sees this) if the dimensions still are valid today.

Best of luck to you.

[SIZE=9pt]#1. Set the right sponson tip 0.100" higher than the left sponson. You can adjust them up or down, but always maintain
the 0.100" differential.[/SIZE]​

[SIZE=9pt]#2. Set the right strut at 1 1/2 degree negative.

#3. Set the left strut at 1 degree negative.

#4 The struts could be a little more or less, but maintain the 1/2 degree differential. The bottom of the struts must be lower than the bottom of the center sponson. About .030".

#5. Set the break lines of your turnfin parallel to the deck line of the tub.

#6. We have always used the 1.1" blade. 5.3" long is enough. Too long will glue the front sponsons down in the turn.
This can cause the back end to come around as you accelerate out of the turn.
This area is important. Too much strut angle will cause the props to lift sooner than the front sponsons lift upon acceleration out of the turn and cause the boat to pull hard right.
Out of sync. engines will also cause this. If the engines are not together you will be chasing your tail, so be sure to keep them in sync.

#7. Good servo power is a must.

#8. Keep the hull running clean, never too tight. Keep sharp sponsons too! Sand the bottoms!

#9. Make sure the drive dogs are not pressing against the struts when under load. This will transfer torque to the hull.

#10. No thick shaft grease. Same effect as above!

#11. Use only stock SGX turnfin. DO NOT round off or smooth off the leading edge bevel. This is very IMPORTANT!

#12. Keep the struts square to the transom. Do not angle them.[/SIZE]
 
thanks you Tony I will write those down.

thanks to everyone for the comments and help.

I always wanted a twin rigger.

I was told this was a sg .67 when I bought it
 
Last edited by a moderator:
thanks you Tony I will write those down.

thanks to everyone for the comments and help.

I always wanted a twin rigger.

I was told this was a sg .67 when I bought it
Twin 67/80 SG. Same boat. Twin 67/84 SGX has some improvements
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Latest posts

Back
Top