Sean Bowf
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2007
- Messages
- 716
I will probably get beat up for this...but here goes...I have been out with my Deuce twice...the first time out was about 7 tanks, and I think I was on my second run of my second outing when I broke my flex.
OK...lets look at some of the things wrong with the first releases of the MV (pre-deuce)...
1 - Rudder is cast instead of milled (needs to be sanded smooth)
2 - The inside of the hull could use a coat of epoxy...not only to make it smooth and easier to clean, but because the wood mounting blocks and side wood supports don't appear to be sealed. Also the mounting blocks in the early MVs had a tendancy to come loose from the hull.
3 - Engine sometimes does not line up with the stuffing tube.
4 - Radio...a few of us had problems with the old AM radio.
5 - The flex shaft collet does not run true due to the brass collet under the flywheel not being true.
6 - The flex collet wears out on the first release, and does not want to let go of the flex with the second release on the pre-deuce MVs.
7 - There is a small washer between the prop and the prop nut that is LARGER than the hub of the prop.
8 - Radio box breaks easily.
9 - Fuel tank lid does not close well, allowing pressure to leak past the lid.
10 - Header cooks the exhaust coupler leading to early failure.
11 - The drain plug/hole is on the wrong side of the hull.
12 - Speed...two ways of adding speed...either do a sponson mod, or change the engine out.
OK, lets look at what is fixed and what is not fixed out of the list...
1 - Rudder looks like the same rudder...still cast.
2 - The inside of the hull, mounting blocks, and the side wood supports all look the ssame. So far I have lost one of the screws from the fuel tank, and when I noticed my box had water in it, I went to tighten the screws in the bottom if it (common place for leaks in the old version) and the screws just spun. Upon a further look at the fuel tank, I noticed the screw was shorter. I think this is probably the cause of the problem.
3 - I never had a big problem with the early boats (I own four of them) not lining up properly...if they were a little off, I could loosen the screws that held the mount to the wood mounting blocks, push the engine a little left or right and tighten it back up to fix it. Well, this one does not line up and you can't fix it like the old ones...tighter tolerance between the screws and the mount. I lost a flex, S/B Y535, and bushing on my second time out due to a broken flex shaft that I think was caused by this misalignment. It also appears the engine is a little high for the stuffing tube. I guess that is my fault for not trying harder to line things up better when I realized they were not lined up well from the factory. I have never lost a flex before that was not part of a collisiong with the shore or something like that, till now.
4 - No problem yet with the radio...once I figured out how to bind the TX and RX. I have never had a 2.4 radio before...and when this one came without being married, and the instructions not saying anything...it took me a little while to figure out to take the receiver out of the baloon, and push the little recessed button on it to bind the RX and TX. If its in the instructions, I can't find it...and I looked twice.
5 - This collet does not run true from the factory. It is not far off, but it is off. The earlier boat, I never had this problem until I started messing with the flywheel (taking it off and putting it back on). This one was not true from the factory.
6 - The flex shaft collet on this one holds the flex too tight. It is a ***** to get loose. The flex actually looked sanded a little from the factory...the windings looked a little flattened. Also, the flex does not appear to be soldered...I had one strand that was trying to unwind when I first removed the flex.
7 - That little washer is still there...and still too large.
8 - They supposedly fixed the radio box...I have not had my boat long enough to know if it will be a problem or not.
9 - Same fuel tank...same problem. This one is probably the worst tank I have seen.
10 - Header comes with an SV27 cooler that a lot of us added to the early release MVs...nice upgrade.
11 - Drain plug and hole are still on the wrong side of the hull. This surprised me because they redid the molds to include a built in sponson mod...so I would have thought they would have moved the drain hole too.
12 - Well...the sponson mod is built in...and I only got a couple runs into my second trip out, so have not found a tune yet (only had one run with the GPS, and it was 28.5 MPH). The speeds I am hearing from folks that are using a Y535 is 35 - 40. I am a little baffled by this, because I had heard tell of 40+ MPH speeds with a sponson mod and the stock AQ engine...and I am pushing 40 - 43 MPH with the stock hull (no sponson mod), Y535, and a CVRM. Part of the reason I am baffled is because the new engine is listed with the same numbers as the CVRM. If this was true, I would think the ST engine would push the boat well up into the 40s with a built in sponson mod and a Y535. I think the ST engine specs are a bit exagerated, or the muffled pipe is not letting the engine fully unload. I will do some more testing when I have time.
An added problem I had on my Deuce that I had not experienced with the earlier releases of the MV, was that the bushing to flex clearance is too tight. Not sure if the bushing is spinning in the stuffing tube, or if the flex is turning in the bushing with how tight it was.
The HSN come set 4 turns out from the factory. This is blubbering rich, to the point (in my environment) that it would not run without the glow plug igniter attached. I had to turn it in about 3/4 of a turn to get it to run on the water so I could start the break in process.
This boat handles rough water better than the older MVs. Not sure if it is the sponson mod, the deep strut setting, or a combination of both. This boat went through water that my Mod MV would not have handled well.
Sean
OK...lets look at some of the things wrong with the first releases of the MV (pre-deuce)...
1 - Rudder is cast instead of milled (needs to be sanded smooth)
2 - The inside of the hull could use a coat of epoxy...not only to make it smooth and easier to clean, but because the wood mounting blocks and side wood supports don't appear to be sealed. Also the mounting blocks in the early MVs had a tendancy to come loose from the hull.
3 - Engine sometimes does not line up with the stuffing tube.
4 - Radio...a few of us had problems with the old AM radio.
5 - The flex shaft collet does not run true due to the brass collet under the flywheel not being true.
6 - The flex collet wears out on the first release, and does not want to let go of the flex with the second release on the pre-deuce MVs.
7 - There is a small washer between the prop and the prop nut that is LARGER than the hub of the prop.
8 - Radio box breaks easily.
9 - Fuel tank lid does not close well, allowing pressure to leak past the lid.
10 - Header cooks the exhaust coupler leading to early failure.
11 - The drain plug/hole is on the wrong side of the hull.
12 - Speed...two ways of adding speed...either do a sponson mod, or change the engine out.
OK, lets look at what is fixed and what is not fixed out of the list...
1 - Rudder looks like the same rudder...still cast.
2 - The inside of the hull, mounting blocks, and the side wood supports all look the ssame. So far I have lost one of the screws from the fuel tank, and when I noticed my box had water in it, I went to tighten the screws in the bottom if it (common place for leaks in the old version) and the screws just spun. Upon a further look at the fuel tank, I noticed the screw was shorter. I think this is probably the cause of the problem.
3 - I never had a big problem with the early boats (I own four of them) not lining up properly...if they were a little off, I could loosen the screws that held the mount to the wood mounting blocks, push the engine a little left or right and tighten it back up to fix it. Well, this one does not line up and you can't fix it like the old ones...tighter tolerance between the screws and the mount. I lost a flex, S/B Y535, and bushing on my second time out due to a broken flex shaft that I think was caused by this misalignment. It also appears the engine is a little high for the stuffing tube. I guess that is my fault for not trying harder to line things up better when I realized they were not lined up well from the factory. I have never lost a flex before that was not part of a collisiong with the shore or something like that, till now.
4 - No problem yet with the radio...once I figured out how to bind the TX and RX. I have never had a 2.4 radio before...and when this one came without being married, and the instructions not saying anything...it took me a little while to figure out to take the receiver out of the baloon, and push the little recessed button on it to bind the RX and TX. If its in the instructions, I can't find it...and I looked twice.
5 - This collet does not run true from the factory. It is not far off, but it is off. The earlier boat, I never had this problem until I started messing with the flywheel (taking it off and putting it back on). This one was not true from the factory.
6 - The flex shaft collet on this one holds the flex too tight. It is a ***** to get loose. The flex actually looked sanded a little from the factory...the windings looked a little flattened. Also, the flex does not appear to be soldered...I had one strand that was trying to unwind when I first removed the flex.
7 - That little washer is still there...and still too large.
8 - They supposedly fixed the radio box...I have not had my boat long enough to know if it will be a problem or not.
9 - Same fuel tank...same problem. This one is probably the worst tank I have seen.
10 - Header comes with an SV27 cooler that a lot of us added to the early release MVs...nice upgrade.
11 - Drain plug and hole are still on the wrong side of the hull. This surprised me because they redid the molds to include a built in sponson mod...so I would have thought they would have moved the drain hole too.
12 - Well...the sponson mod is built in...and I only got a couple runs into my second trip out, so have not found a tune yet (only had one run with the GPS, and it was 28.5 MPH). The speeds I am hearing from folks that are using a Y535 is 35 - 40. I am a little baffled by this, because I had heard tell of 40+ MPH speeds with a sponson mod and the stock AQ engine...and I am pushing 40 - 43 MPH with the stock hull (no sponson mod), Y535, and a CVRM. Part of the reason I am baffled is because the new engine is listed with the same numbers as the CVRM. If this was true, I would think the ST engine would push the boat well up into the 40s with a built in sponson mod and a Y535. I think the ST engine specs are a bit exagerated, or the muffled pipe is not letting the engine fully unload. I will do some more testing when I have time.
An added problem I had on my Deuce that I had not experienced with the earlier releases of the MV, was that the bushing to flex clearance is too tight. Not sure if the bushing is spinning in the stuffing tube, or if the flex is turning in the bushing with how tight it was.
The HSN come set 4 turns out from the factory. This is blubbering rich, to the point (in my environment) that it would not run without the glow plug igniter attached. I had to turn it in about 3/4 of a turn to get it to run on the water so I could start the break in process.
This boat handles rough water better than the older MVs. Not sure if it is the sponson mod, the deep strut setting, or a combination of both. This boat went through water that my Mod MV would not have handled well.
Sean
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