ML Boatworks RSX310 , My 1st Outrigger design ever! 31", P/ P-ltd FE Rigger!

[Mike Luszcz]

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[gooycheese]

How are you re enforcing the area where the turn fin is mounting?

 

[Mike Luszcz]

There will be carbon added around the boom support tubes, and hardwood block in the turn fin area. It will be plenty strong!

 

[Mike Luszcz]

Getting a little closer. The cowling plug is now fully shaped, and ready for its first coat of Duratec Surfacing primer, and if I get that sanded down without breaking through then I can polish it, wax it, and make a mold!

The sponsons are now sheeted, and I am working on the top deck sheeting template. I also got the motor in and placed it to see how it fits. I got the booms cut down to make a 14-7/8" spread from inside sponson edge to inside sponson edge. I will start there, and go narrower as needed. I added the brass tubes in the tub for the booms to travel through, and added the collars for now. It is starting to look like something! Mike

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[Mike Luszcz]

Maybe its time to put a kit list together for potential interested parties. I am still going to test this thing, and make changes if needed first, but I don't want people battling down the road. This will be on IW as well.

Ones I know about so far are (and sorry if these first few are out of order, we can correct that as I look through the posts)

FE Version:

1) Darin Jordan OSE
2) Terry Davis OSE
3) Kent Seal IW
4) Paul 785 x 4 kits OSE

5) Jerry Muro-boatnuts IW/OSE

Nitro Version, when available:

1)Glenn Quarles wants to test

2) Rockin Robin Stebbins?

 

[Mike Luszcz]

Lots of canopy plug work going on last night, and getting stuff together for customers orders, but I did get the nosing added, and the canopy plug for this kit is ready to sand and polish, and make a mold!

RSX310 canopy, and the 38" Seebold tunnel canopy plugs, and a Formula 357 canopy plug!

 

[Mike Luszcz]

FE Version:


1) Darin Jordan OSE
2) Terry Davis OSE
3) Kent Seal IW
4) Paul 785 x 4 kits OSE
5) Jerry Muro/ Boatnutz IW/OSE
6) JHL1963 OSE
7) Reed Eagle OSE
8) Maryland FE- Pete Welty Jr. OSE
9)
10)





Nitro Version, when available:

1)Glenn Quarles wants to test
2) Rockin Robin Stebbins?

 

[moparbarn]

You know it, Mike!! Thanx for putting me on the list (-;

 

[Mike Luszcz]

No problem Robin! Thanks!

Canopy plug is fully sanded up to 1500 grit, rubbing compound work done. Next is polishing compound, then mold release....

Fitted the rudder and strut. If you look closely you can see I cut the rudder bracket as it was about 1/8" to wide to fit. I did this at an angle so it would tuck in behind the strut bracket, using it for support. Added the water inlet and outlets as well. Long night of sanding as I have 4 different plugs in development right now, and they are all at the sanding stage before polishing.

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[Mike Luszcz]

FE Version:


1) Darin Jordan OSE
2) Terry Davis OSE
3) Kent Seal IW
4) Paul 785 x 4 kits OSE
5) Jerry Muro/ Boatnutz IW/OSE
6) JHL1963 OSE
7) Reed Eagle OSE
8) Maryland FE- Pete Welty Jr. OSE
9) bhorowitz- Bob Horowitz OSE
10)





Nitro Version, when available:

1)Glenn Quarles wants to test
2) Rockin Robin Stebbins?

3) Shane Bastick

 

[Mike Luszcz]

I had some questions on OSE if I had concerns about the deck curvature being to much, so I wanted to clarify my thinking. If anyone on IW had any concerns, hopefully this will explain my madness. Here is my response.

No, I am actually not concerned. I already cross checked the tub curvature against that of the center section GSX310 sport hydro...same overall curve, Then I checked the sponson top deck curvature vs. the GSX310, this rigger has a good deal less curvature. So, overall, based on previous experiences, this one is more tame. You have to use the quarter round on the bottom tho! That is a key feature, allowing me to design in this much curvature into these hulls.

I also measured the top deck tub length vs. the lower pan tub length, and the numbers work out where the top deck should pull the hull towards the water, not away. The cowling may have some lift effect, but less than any of my sport hydro cowls due to its overall height, and only 2" width.

Next, ride pad width is 1-5/8". The GSX310 is a touch more, and the GP310v2 is 2" at the trailing edge, and almost 3" before the air relief. The sponson deck, and center section on the GP310 is also much more radical than the GSX310, or this rigger.

Now, The JAE 21 is a 1-1/4" sponson width on the ride surface. Yes, that is slightly less than mine..what 3/8"? But, due to that narrow width and lack of non trip, you have to run the CoG way back, or in rough water, the boat tanks. (See a Gas JAE with the original sponsons..disaster) With my more traditional non trip style sponson, you can run your CoG more like a sport hydro, and keep the bow down where it needs to be, and have the advantage of non trips in rough water, which to me..is a huge goal in this project. The huge amount of space in the tub to shift the battery forward or back, gives us a LOT of adjustability.

Next, we have the inside sponson edge upper air trap rails. These, which you have seen me use on tunnels, and sport hydros just the same, have been incorporated into my design of this rigger. This helps air flow come across the sponson deck in a turn, forcing the air to stay on the deck, in turn holding down the inside sponson, instead of letting it come up, being loose, or potentially blowing off in the turn.

Finally, I will discuss the sponson shear outside edge and the front leading edge. You will notice, I have used a double sponson sheer, creating a 1/4" thick shear....same as all my GSX series hulls. You may have noticed this same rounded outside edge on another few hulls, mainly, full size unlimited hydros. Why do I use these? Simple, the rounded edge, just like the rounded nosing block on my sport hydros, helps stop snap blow offs. These slow down the air flow as it enters the sponsons front, or outside edge, effectively keeping the hull stable. Why? The air hits this edge, slows down, and if the boat does get out of shape due to a wave, or wind, it slows down how fast the airflow change from top deck down force, the underside up force. This effectively gives you more time to react, letting off the throttle, settling the hull back down. If you take a look at some other boats out there, and how they blow off vs. a great Video Jesse J did a few years back of the GP335 (the round, blunt nosing block demonstration), you will see how much slower this design is to "take flight", giving you a time advantage to settle the boat down.

So, as you can see, a LOT goes into these designs. Function is a must, but I have to have some form...or I quit! haha. Simple history tells us, yes...there is a lot of curvature going on, you are right..but the other things I do to the hull counteract that, which is why it is imperative once the design is done, and tested, and works, not to remove things like the quarter round. It is there so all these ideas work in harmony.

I don't usually discuss these ideas publicly, but I figured it was time to share why I do what I do!

But at the end of the day, it may not work. If it doesn't, I already have a backup idea ready, and can design those changes in less than a day. Will I need them..I really don't think so, but if so, they will be done, and I will test it again, and again until I am happy with the results!

I Hope this clarified everything? If not, let me know, and I will do better to answer.

 

[Mike Luszcz]

Got back in town yesterday afternoon, and got the Cowling mold done. Turned out really well. If the design works, I am going to make a second mold to cut down on turn around time. I will now proceed forward on the rest of the hull build starting tonight!

I also got in some turn fin samples from a guy on OSE. These are stainless steel, and very thin and strong. If they test well, I am going to try and offer the correct one with the kit. If now, he can reshape until I find what I like.

 

[darryl whitman]

Mike I fab a stainless fin for the sport 20 I got from ya , an the edge stays sharp, it works well . an now Im going to put stainless fins on all my boats.

 

[Andrew Coppolino]

Hi Mike great little rigger you have there, might be a silly question but with the fixed sponsons can the angle of attack be altered at all or it is what it is

Andrew

 

[darryl whitman]

Hi Mike, any new updates . an are you looking at making adjustable rear boom?

 

[Mike Luszcz]

No adjustment. That would be something the builder could do if desired, but I want the boat set up to run correctly with the design I have given it. Is it normal for riggers to have adjustable booms?

Here is where I am at with the build. Been out of town for a funeral last week, so I did what I could do. I have the tub and sponsons epoxied and carbon fiber added, and I laid up the first cowling yesterday, and trimmed it and fitted! Looks pretty cool! Enjoy, Mike

Ray Sametz...check out your cowling. I laid it up yesterday as well.

 

[Mike Luszcz]

 

[Mike Luszcz]

FE Version:


1) Darin Jordan OSE
2) Terry Davis OSE
3) Kent Seal IW
4) Paul 785 x 4 kits OSE
5) Jerry Muro/ Boatnutz IW/OSE
6) JHL1963 OSE
7) Reed Eagle OSE
8) Maryland FE- Pete Welty Jr. OSE
9) bhorowitz- Bob Horowitz OSE
10)





Nitro Version, when available:

1)Glenn Quarles wants to test
2) Rockin Robin Stebbins?

3) Shane Bastick

4) Dale Hobbs x 2 kits- Facebook

 

[HOTWATER]

Like the Kool Aid man says...OH YEAH!!!

I really like the look of this rigger with that cowling fitted to it!!! By far the Koolest looking P- Rigger I have seen!!!

 

[HOTWATER]

Btw...how does one make an adjustable boom on an FE rigger without water leaking in?? 1/2" pvc "tunnel" sealed end to end in the tub and then boom tube into that but then how to keep the boom tube set and kept from moving up and down?...different pvc cap fittings (wood ply) with assortment of heights drilled into them?...seems like alot of extra work for a design that should ALREADY work at the angle the designer has given it... ; )