JAP/JAE .12G construction

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I agree, we'll wait on the final word from Rod, Ron, Martin or somebody who is more knowledgable about this boat. I do know that a few things were wrong in the manual as I pointed out before but I also look at this boat as one that we can play with a little to use our own ideas. I've got a few myself and one that I started on tonight, nothing big but one of those things that I had to try. I hope it works as there's no going back now.
 
Ron: care to share your idea? don't blame you if you don't, anyway what size flex shaft is everyone running, 3/16 looks over kill for a 12 boat, I was thinking about .150 with 3/16th stub, any reason not to? BTW, I will be running a Nova 12 5 port
 
No big deal. I drilled out the tub and added aluminum tubing just like the sponsons. Now the dilemma is what I want to do now, drill them for 2-56 bolts, tape or RC car and truck body clips?

I'm using .125"/.130" flex cables as that's what I have a lot of and it's what I've used on all of my .12 powered boats. Using 3/16" has to be tricky as I don't know of a good coupler or who makes one that will fit a 5mm thread.
 
Thanks for the reply Ron, I was about to sand it off then Larry says no, what to do, Rod if you are reading this let all of us know what the real answer is. I will leave it over hang for now, hope we get a definitive answer soon. thanks guy's
Its along the same lines as the sponson trailing edges, so water breaks free from trailing edge with no where to ride up. When it comes to hang off of the transom, this isnt a new idea. If you take a look at the Dumas Hawk Hydroplane, designed by Gary Pruesse, you will also see the hangoff the transom. I asked him 12 years ago why, and it was a no brainer after his explaination. His son Davids C&D Machine Hawk also has the overhang. Now, on these JAE boats, it may be even more important because the weight distributed to the prop is almost double that of a conventional outrigger. Now, it isnt going to make much of a difference at speed, but it will with the launch. PS, if the weight on the prop is lets say, double that of a conventional boat while sitting still on the table, think of how much that acually increases as the boat accelerates from hitting the water at lets say 3mph to about 25mph when the rear of the boat is completely riding on the pad. The cleaner the water comes off the back of the boat the easier it will be to launch those huge props we will all be turning ;) Yes, I talked to Ron about this since I got a second-hand JAE 12 that didnt have those overhangs in which I was advised to add them. But hey, if you dont want them, sand em off. I wouldnt, by them being there can only help you.

Larry Gempp Jr.
 
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Guys,

You won't need a lot of propeller, it will run

well with a 1440 B/C or a V-937/3.

Thanks,

Mark Sholund
 
I agree, we'll wait on the final word from Rod, Ron, Martin or somebody who is more knowledgable about this boat. I do know that a few things were wrong in the manual as I pointed out before but I also look at this boat as one that we can play with a little to use our own ideas. I've got a few myself and one that I started on tonight, nothing big but one of those things that I had to try. I hope it works as there's no going back now.
Leave the overhang on the bottom...there is a reason for it....this not an opinion,it is a tested fact...... <_< ;)The capillary action of water flowing over adjacent surfaces does funny things,especially during the launch..... ;)
 
Rod: Thanks for the clarification on the bottom overhang. this is an awsome little boat and you guy's have given the boating comunity a big shot in the arm with this. I have seen more talk about this boat in the last few months, than any other in the last few years. keep up with the great work and get the JAE 21 out and going. it will be my next boat for sure. thanks again for all you hard work and dedication.
 
MAde my building board today from some white shlfing material and screwed it to a 2x4 wooden frame to keept it flat and level..

I was curious what waterproof epoxy some of you guys are using for the basic construction.Not the clear or the coating but the adhesive for the laminating and gluing together of the various parts ?
 
MAde my building board today from some white shlfing material and screwed it to a 2x4 wooden frame to keept it flat and level..

I was curious what waterproof epoxy some of you guys are using for the basic construction.Not the clear or the coating but the adhesive for the laminating and gluing together of the various parts ?
I didn't spring for the WEST SYSTEMS epoxy. Our LHS has their name on some "I think Bob Smith epoxy-USA is the manufacturer " Seen it at other shops as well. 5,30min & finish coat. Seems great never seems rubbery once cured. 50-50 mix which is easier when you make a tiny bit.If you spring for big size it real cheap compared to hardware store types.I seen menards has single ply counter top in various laminates they sell as shelving for about $3 a piece. Would of bought some but tub was done on kitchen table already.
 
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Another building board option is to go to your local granite countertop shop & buy a remnant or sink cutout. I prefer the remnant because you can get them the size you need. You don't need much even to build a 20 boat I think mine is approx. 28" x 36" Tell them you don't need the edges finished. There are many benefits, granite is very flat can't remember the spec offhand but it's like +\-.0002 over many feet, you can scrape epoxy, CA right off with a razor blade without hurting it, its typically 3cm thick so it's easy to clamp to the edges.

joe
 
MAde my building board today from some white shlfing material and screwed it to a 2x4 wooden frame to keept it flat and level..

I was curious what waterproof epoxy some of you guys are using for the basic construction.Not the clear or the coating but the adhesive for the laminating and gluing together of the various parts ?
Hi Terry!

I was advised to use System Three epoxy.... because of 1)cost, 2) mixing ratio (2:1) and 3) doesnt yellow over time.... I think you know who told me this! :)
 
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MAde my building board today from some white shlfing material and screwed it to a 2x4 wooden frame to keept it flat and level..

I was curious what waterproof epoxy some of you guys are using for the basic construction.Not the clear or the coating but the adhesive for the laminating and gluing together of the various parts ?
Hi Terry!

I was advised to use System Three epoxy.... because of 1)cost, 2) mixing ratio (1:1) and 3) doesnt yellow over time.... I think you know who told me this! :)
exactly what products of theirs do you recommend they have a bunch, I know the silver tip sample kit is supposed to be a great deal.Has $20 off first $100 purchase coupon in it as well.
 
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A few questions for you boating experts:

1. I am using the recommended Octura copper strut, and while measuring to mount it on the transom, I noticed the centerline of the strut does not follow the centerline on the bottom of the tub. I know that the transom is square to the hull, so is this strut designed with left thrust in it similar to adding right thrust on an airplane? My gut tells me no, since left anything on a rigger is a no-no. I just want to ask before I make adjustments to the strut. I know it is the strut because if I flip sides, it will have right thrust. Should I try to bend where it meets the bracket, or shim the bracket on the transom?

2. Do you leave overhang on the back of L3 and R3 sheeting? I left overhang on the sides, and the manual says to leave overhang on the back of L4 and R4, but no mention about the back of R3 and L3. I left some overhang, but if I need to sand it off, I can.

3. If using the Solinger rudder and capping the rudder mount with 1/4" triangle stock, there doesn't seem to be room for a pushrod seal. Ideas??

4. Do the front sponsons require any toe-in and if so, how much? What sponson distance seems to work the best?

5. I know this is trial and error, but what position on the sponson seems to work best for the turn fin?

6. Last but not least, do you run the rudder straight up, or should it be angled in any way?

Sorry for all the questions, I just figured get them all out at once!

Thanks for the help,

JayP
 
Jay, I've also had many of the very same questions.

On the L and R 3 pieces I've seen them both sanded off and left on. It appears that the ones who did sand them off flush built theirs from plans.

I mounted my rudder late last night but left the gusset off as it looked tight there to me also and may be overkill and yes, things are tight right there.

The rudder should be parallel to the transom.

You can center the tub to the sponsons or put them offset towards the right a little. I saw somewhere that 3/8" offset was used but you could possibly go further to 3/4".

My hardware showed up yesterday from Joe Petro (turn fins and linkage seals) so I worked on the boat late last night/this morning. I found that it seems like the ends of the fiberglass booms wanted to splinter so I rounded the ends slightly but not enough to affect the length.
 
MAde my building board today from some white shlfing material and screwed it to a 2x4 wooden frame to keept it flat and level..

I was curious what waterproof epoxy some of you guys are using for the basic construction.Not the clear or the coating but the adhesive for the laminating and gluing together of the various parts ?
Hi Terry!

I was advised to use System Three epoxy.... because of 1)cost, 2) mixing ratio (1:1) and 3) doesnt yellow over time.... I think you know who told me this! :)
exactly what products of theirs do you recommend they have a bunch, I know the silver tip sample kit is supposed to be a great deal.Has $20 off first $100 purchase coupon in it as well.
Sorry 153 for the late response - didnt notice til now. I bought the System Three STR General Purpose epoxy... http://www.systemthree.com/p_sys3_gpepoxy.asp. The mixing ratio is 2:1 - not 1:1 (typo - sorry).
 
JayP

2. Do you leave overhang on the back of L3 and R3 sheeting? I left overhang on the sides, and the manual says to leave overhang on the back of L4 and R4, but no mention about the back of R3 and L3. I left some overhang, but if I need to sand it off, I can.

If you look at page 24 top right first paragraph it tells you what to do for R-3 and R4 in regards to overhang and if you look at the left sponson in the picture at the bottom of the page you can see they have left overhang on L-3 and L-4 also.The confusion is from the pics in the rear of the manual does not have them as i beleive it's the JAP not the JAE.

I cut both L3 and R-3 back a bit because the manual say only a Tiny overhang.

I have aprox 1/8 overhang.Does anyone know if this is cool or still too much...
 
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