JAE21 FE pulling to the right

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I use a fine flat China Saw blade from Harbor Freight to remove the ski-- in one piece. You'll need to redo the brass. If the hole in the bulkhead is larger then add a patch over the oblong hole.

look at the brass pipe

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Neil, I checked out the Harbor Freight website and the only reference I could find to a china blade was an air saw blade. If so I will probably slip out to the local hardware store and see if I can find something equivalent to that.
 
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Thanks, guys. I'll see if I can find one at the hardware store of Home Depot. Don't want to wait for something to come thru the mail from south of the border.
 
Joe Does have a new release in the gas JAE and mine is release #1 So testing is still ongoing for me .

Neil
 
Picked up a saw at LHS on the way home from work. Also picked up a tip in another post about removing stuffing tube using a soldering iron to soften the epoxy. Worked like a charm. Gonna try to re-fit the new stuffing tubes with as little disruption to the hull as neccessary which hopefully will mean not having to cut off the ski and re-bond it after.
 
John, are you annealing the tube to make it more easily bent?... I leave an inch or so on the ends factory, and it helps to gain a kink free application.... I also have a short stuffing box section built into mine terminating at the engine bulkhead and hull bottom. Many guys dont, but, for replacement purposes, I havent had to remove my ski, the new tube installs easily.... the S bend, is tedious for me, and I'll scrap one or two, to get the gentle sweep right.... good luck.... Mike
 
Mike, I used a tubing bender so I didn't need to anneal the tube. I have the stuffing tube back in the hull. LOL. I'm an electrician and used to bending conduit with nice clean kink-free bends. Apparently what is good for installing conduit is not as good for making stuffing tubes. It was very helpful to learn from one of the above posts that the tube had to bend gradually enough so as not to feel any resistance on the flex shaft as it moves through the tube. Now I have a bend that would make an electrician wince but a JAE builder smile. Just waiting for the epoxy to cure so I can finish putting everything back together. My replacement prop won't be here until some time next week so I won't get a chance to run it tomorrow.
 
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Mike, I would also be interested in seeing pics of the stuffing box you mentioned. This is the second time I've replaced the stuffing tube on this rigger.
 
Well, it was a much better day at the river yesterday. I managed to run the rigger and return home with my entire driveline. I was satisfied with a definite improvement on the handling even though there were enough mats of weeds scattered across the area to restrict where the boat could run to a very limited area. Screwed up with my video sunglasses so I don't have any videos of any of the runs.
 
Yep. My bride bought them for me as a Christmas present. They're pretty good for recording while running the boat. Just have to remember to hold your head still as you follow the boat around the course and it is helpful to have a laptop along to play back and or confirm what you recorded.
 
Well, I finally got this thing back in the water and got some decent footage of it. We moved to a different spot on the river where weeds wasn't an issue at all. It was an awesome morning as far as the weather was concerned.

The adjustments documented above translated into a much better handling boat that is great to run and watch. It still seemed to be running a bit wet but I've read in other posts that I may need to make a minor adjustment in the strut angle. The strut is currently sitting flat on the ski as recommended by Joe Petro. But I couldn't figure out how it could also sit flat on the ski and still be parallel to the hull when the ski is on an angle. Then I came across a discussion in another post where someone suggested that the strut only has to be on the ski at the edge closest to the transom but parallel to the bottom of the tub the rest of the way. Will try that the net time out. This was a test to make sure that the modification to the sponson ride surface and stuffing tube "S" bend were going to result in better handling and intack drive shafts which they did. Here is a video of yesterday's run.

 
Just wanted to say thanks, guys, to all who have helped me resolve the various issues with this rigger build from cg to pulling to the right. Had it out again today and apart from one small incident the boat is handling very well. Still have some work to do to get it runing a little less wet but overall I am very happy with it. All of the components come in very cool after a full three minute run. I will be following the lead of a couple of buddies that I run with and learning to do some prop work. According to Kendt my 1450 Zippkits prop is as dull as a "butter knife". LOL. Told him I wanted it running consistently first before focusing on going faster. His motto is "go fast or go home". But I came home today with everything still working on my rigger so I am happy to start there. :)

 
The strut is currently sitting flat on the ski as recommended by Joe Petro. But I couldn't figure out how it could also sit flat on the ski and still be parallel to the hull when the ski is on an angle. Then I came across a discussion in another post where someone suggested that the strut only has to be on the ski at the edge closest to the transom but parallel to the bottom of the tub the rest of the way.
Thats what I tried to explain on post #5 of this thread John but I know you were getting bombarded with recommendations at first. Placing the strut flat on the ski gave you allot of negative angle which pushed the sponsons into the water. The strut dosent necessarily have to be parallel to the bottom of the tub. Place the rigger on a flat surface and make sure the strut is parallel to that surface it's sitting on. Anywhere from neutral to a tiny bit of negative works well on the JAE. Glad you got it running better.
 
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