Guys i have not been on here for a bit and i thought i would add a few comments.I am new to 21 riggers and have been into boating for aprox 5 years so no pro at it but learning more each time out.The jae is my second rigger of any kind and i was atrracted to it because of the good things i heard and the price and i wanted to build one.I already had a good running modded hawk that i finally got running well thanks to Steve Ball so i did not need another 21 rigger but i wanted to try and build one.I followed the intructions to a T and used no ca only slow set west epoxy.
I added a remote needle and all the additional stuff that goes along with it.
I use the system where the brass tubing extends out on both sides of the tub and i spit the beass and use aluminum collars to clamp down on it the same method as holding the sponsons to the booms.I sealed the boat with west and cleard the tub with KK and then painted the sponsons and the cd machine cowl.I use a small peice of very thin sheet metal on the bottom of the cowl and a aluminum bracket and magnet to hold the cowl on.ANYWAY This boat did not come out light by anyones standard and i will weight it when i get a chance.I had some setup issues because i screwd up and got a brass tube in the sponson glued in incorrectly and my AOA was wacked..Once i figured that out and bult a setup board
I was able to check all my running surfaces and then the boat was just really nice to run.
I have a 2 year old .21 NR from glenn that has a lot of fuel throuh it.Prob 4 gallons ,i don't track that but when we go to the pond we fill and go, fill and go.I can run a gallon through it on saturday no problem...
Here is my setup ehich was good enough to win a lot of heats this past summer and squeek out the high points for my district and 2nd at the northern nats(not bragging just saying) finishing all my heats and one was on the wrong model only alowing me 1/2 throttle and running lean. (rookie mistake).
Guys you can get caught up in all the keyboard racing ya want and from the races i have been to the fastes boats hardly ever win especially if they don't get lane on someone has to try and take you with one of them real light boats or not so light setup to be on the ragged edge.The JAE 21 and 12 are as good as they get from what i have seen and raced.
Here is my setup and it works well for me but will be trying more props in 2011
I have tried the h4,5,6,7 1445 1450 but keep going back to one prop.
-CD machine shop cowl and turn fin sharpened like JK suggested.
-Plastic 8oz tank 2 oz with hopper between engine and rear boom tube.
-Speedmaster 21 hydro rudder sharpend equally on both side and flat on the bottom and not cut off.
-Jipkits strut machined by me on my belt sander and eyeballed to what i guessed was a degree or two neg(level for me was causing blow offs) .I wanted more down pressure on the sponsons and man did that pay off in rough water.
-weight 4lbs.965oz
-1450 out of the bag sharpened and balanced by me.
-3/16"toe in on the front of the right sponson.Now i only require a small left rudder trim but boat tracks straight and turns well you know like a JAE.
-NR 21 with glenns carb mod.
-3820 at 7.5 using the plastic gauge.
-225mg rudder servo and the trottle and 3rd channel are up front and i think are 3102 mini futaba's .i woul have to look.Battery pack is in the front under the stuffing tube and the receiver in mid box velcroed to the side.
NOt shown in the pics but i have been using a needle valve in the water line to control water flow to the motor to keep the temp up.Terry keely helped me on the engine temp issue.
That is all i can think of and not looking to argue but IMHO if you build em like the kit says don't go crazy with the glue and make sure they are setup flat and straight on a countertop or board then IF you practice going around bouys not just an open pond then you can win some heats..Ya need to burn lots of fuel.
Oh yeah the one time i stuck a gps in my boat because it's a pain i was only running like 62 ish.I am a little faster now but it seems to be fast enough for now but i will tweak it some in the spring and summer.I have a couple ideas and my buds will be comming after me in 2011 i already know that
that is it i am tired of typing with two fingers
I added a remote needle and all the additional stuff that goes along with it.
I use the system where the brass tubing extends out on both sides of the tub and i spit the beass and use aluminum collars to clamp down on it the same method as holding the sponsons to the booms.I sealed the boat with west and cleard the tub with KK and then painted the sponsons and the cd machine cowl.I use a small peice of very thin sheet metal on the bottom of the cowl and a aluminum bracket and magnet to hold the cowl on.ANYWAY This boat did not come out light by anyones standard and i will weight it when i get a chance.I had some setup issues because i screwd up and got a brass tube in the sponson glued in incorrectly and my AOA was wacked..Once i figured that out and bult a setup board
I was able to check all my running surfaces and then the boat was just really nice to run.I have a 2 year old .21 NR from glenn that has a lot of fuel throuh it.Prob 4 gallons ,i don't track that but when we go to the pond we fill and go, fill and go.I can run a gallon through it on saturday no problem...
Here is my setup ehich was good enough to win a lot of heats this past summer and squeek out the high points for my district and 2nd at the northern nats(not bragging just saying) finishing all my heats and one was on the wrong model only alowing me 1/2 throttle and running lean. (rookie mistake).
Guys you can get caught up in all the keyboard racing ya want and from the races i have been to the fastes boats hardly ever win especially if they don't get lane on someone has to try and take you with one of them real light boats or not so light setup to be on the ragged edge.The JAE 21 and 12 are as good as they get from what i have seen and raced.
Here is my setup and it works well for me but will be trying more props in 2011
I have tried the h4,5,6,7 1445 1450 but keep going back to one prop.
-CD machine shop cowl and turn fin sharpened like JK suggested.
-Plastic 8oz tank 2 oz with hopper between engine and rear boom tube.
-Speedmaster 21 hydro rudder sharpend equally on both side and flat on the bottom and not cut off.
-Jipkits strut machined by me on my belt sander and eyeballed to what i guessed was a degree or two neg(level for me was causing blow offs) .I wanted more down pressure on the sponsons and man did that pay off in rough water.
-weight 4lbs.965oz
-1450 out of the bag sharpened and balanced by me.
-3/16"toe in on the front of the right sponson.Now i only require a small left rudder trim but boat tracks straight and turns well you know like a JAE.
-NR 21 with glenns carb mod.
-3820 at 7.5 using the plastic gauge.
-225mg rudder servo and the trottle and 3rd channel are up front and i think are 3102 mini futaba's .i woul have to look.Battery pack is in the front under the stuffing tube and the receiver in mid box velcroed to the side.
NOt shown in the pics but i have been using a needle valve in the water line to control water flow to the motor to keep the temp up.Terry keely helped me on the engine temp issue.
That is all i can think of and not looking to argue but IMHO if you build em like the kit says don't go crazy with the glue and make sure they are setup flat and straight on a countertop or board then IF you practice going around bouys not just an open pond then you can win some heats..Ya need to burn lots of fuel.
Oh yeah the one time i stuck a gps in my boat because it's a pain i was only running like 62 ish.I am a little faster now but it seems to be fast enough for now but i will tweak it some in the spring and summer.I have a couple ideas and my buds will be comming after me in 2011 i already know that
that is it i am tired of typing with two fingers
