help Painting

[Brian MAhoney]

I am about to paint my whilpash gas sport hydro. Will be using aerosols for this. I have applied 2 coats of west systems and smoothed this by dragging a blade over the surface.

I have tins of filler primer, primer, paint and lacquer.

Planning on a couple of coats of filler primer, rub down with 320 wet and dry, apply primer, key with 320 then apply colour, Key with 320 and apply a couple of coats of lacquer. Finish with 600 and then 1000 grade wet and dry.

Is this the bast way to go?

 

[6cuda6]

Brian, if your going to go threw all the trouble of sanding and prep for a good finish why not step it up to a good grade of automotive paint [such as Dupont, PPG etc]...i don't think you will be happy with the results of all your labor and the lower grade paint...

If your hull is really good [smooth and flat]you can spray on one coat of epoxy primer and go straight to paint or add a coat of surfacer and sand flat then seal with a coat of epoxy primer/sealer [thinned primer] than off to paint...this will give you a durable finish that can be fixed easily...

Don't read into this...i've seen some great things done with spray bombs but it's never the same as good automotive stuff .....

 

[Mike Stewart]

The key is a good automotive clearcoat. I've painted most of MY personal boats with spray cans, then use 2 coats of PPG Concept Clear. Turns out looking just like i used all automotive for much less $$$. Although I don't use this technique when painting boats for other people. My 2 cents

 

[Brian MAhoney]

Thanks for the replies. My budget forces me down the road of the aerosols, will just have to do my best

 

[[email protected]]

My friend Carlos paints all his 3.5 tunnels with aerosols and they look better than what the pro's do w/paint guns.

My question is how well is the can primer going to stick to the West Coast epoxy? Won't it run off? I ask this becasue I've seen some primers that refuse to dry if it doesn't have something to soak or settle into. When you wet sand add just a touch of dish soap, Dawn is the best this way the primer won't clump up onto the paper and the ares will sand nice and even.

Any how make sure your primer sticks or after a while the paint will peel right off from the boat. Make sure you soak the cans of paint in warm water so it sprays nice and evenly, spray cans tend to spit gloobs of crap once and awile. If that happens don't keep paintintg over that area or it'll look like crap. It'll be better to let the boat dry a day and sand the lumps off and respray that area seperately.

If you plan to put decals on the boat, make sure they are clear coat friendly. Take a test decal of what your using and spray the clear on it. If the decal allows the clear to dry putt them onto the boat, if they bleed the decals you'll need to get a new type of decals that the clear will dry over. Once the decals are onto the boat clear over them so you'll get a lift around he paint and the deal to sortta blend a flat even surface. It won't be perfectly flat but it'll keep the decal and paint safe.

If you use Trim Tape clear that as well so it won't peel up.

 

[6cuda6]

Thanks for the replies. My budget forces me down the road of the aerosols, will just have to do my best

95382[/snapback]

​

No problem Brian, you will get good results...just use lots of light coats....the one thing with spray bombs is to allow the paint to flash [vent]...spary paint dries from the outside in so read the label and follow the guide line to the letter for drying time and recoat time or you will have a big soft mess....

As for the clearcoat..make sure it is the same kind of paint as the rest...as in if your spray paint is enamel make sure your clear is enamel compatible...if your paint is lacquer make sure the clear is compatible...DO NOT MIX THE 2 OR YOU WILL LIFT THE PAINT...they are not compatible together ie; lacquer clear and enamel paint. take your time, have fun, Dean

 

[Brian MAhoney]

thanks everyone, weather permitting I will be starting the paint tomorrow. Hope to get a couple of light coats of primer on and then rub down with 400 - 600 wet and dry Friday and some coats of yellow at the weekend.

 

[Grimracer]

thanks everyone, weather permitting I will be starting the paint tomorrow. Hope to get a couple of light coats of primer on and then rub down with 400 - 600 wet and dry Friday and some coats of yellow at the weekend.

95446[/snapback]

​

Brian

If your bace coats are yellow try and get White Primer.. Grey or red can be hard to cover with rattle cans.

grim

 

[Brian MAhoney]

Brian

If your bace coats are yellow try and get White Primer.. Grey or red can be hard to cover with rattle cans.

grim

95448[/snapback]

​

have yellow filler primer and white primer. All cans, filler primer, primer, base and clear, are the same make and line.

Thanks

 

[P THOMAS]

I have been using the rustolem brand auto primer and the prof. grade spray paints.

I just used it to do some new parts to mold and the primer sands easy. After i had this part done and finish molded.

Just for the heck of it i let some 60 %nitro sit in it for two hours and it didnt eat it up. I further tested this stuff by scratching the finish down to the wood and let some fuel soak in, didnt affect it at all. This was done after the paint had been on the part for about a week.

you should have no problem with using gas, this finish is pretty tough too.

For high nitro just dont let raw fuel pool up and leave it. I did see some softening and a little wrinkle after about 4 hours. Normal running and use should not be a problem. i would feel safer appling a good grade of clear over it just to be sure it wont get damaged.

 

[Brian MAhoney]

Thanks Phil, should all be worthwhile in the end.

Just got a few coats of primer on. Its funny but my previously flat surfaces seem to be like a mountain range now. lokks like its back to the 400 grade.

 

[6cuda6]

Thanks Phil, should all be worthwhile in the end.
Just got a few coats of primer on. Its funny but my previously flat surfaces seem to be like a mountain range now. lokks like its back to the 400 grade.

95589[/snapback]

​

Brian if you want to make sanding a little easier on your self take another color that you have and give the area your going to sand a dusting...nothing fancy...and sand it after it dryes....the lows will still have paint and the highs will not....you can do this all the way up to the paint stage...if you want to get into buffing you can even do it with the clear coat....

 

[Brian MAhoney]

Thanks for all the help so far. I always new that ther was a lot of work and skill in getting a concourse finish. Ive got a long way to go yet.

I have had some bleeding of the paint when I sprayed the "screen". I heed to lightly rub the paint down with 1200 prior to appling some coats of lacquer. Will this remove the "bleeding

thanks

 

[6cuda6]

Brian i presume you mean the paint for the winshield blead under the tape onto the hull or cowl area??? Yes the 1200 should remove it as long as it not to thick, it will take a little work...be carefull not to sand the paint off!!!! go slow..watch your progress!!!later, Dean

 

[[email protected]]

The bleeding?? Under the tape?? Or do you mean the runs from excessive paint? What is the screen?

If it's bleeding under the tape the problem is the tape it's self. Don't use tan masking tape. You'll need either "Fine Line" automotive masking tape or the newer lime green Lacquer masking tape to lay down on your areas your painting. Also, when laying tape you need to tug tightly so all the tape lays down flat and snug or it'll bleed everytime.

 

[ClayGlover]

Hey Rodney, I tried the SEM primer in the rattlecan you talked about a while back. I like it. Works good, sands easily enough, and the convenience of no gun to setup/cleanup. good tip B) This went over west system epoxy nicely. did you have a problem with the sem?

I think I'm going from sealer to color this time without primer to save weight.

 

[eddieh]

The bleeding??  Under the tape??  Or do you mean the runs from excessive paint?  What is the screen?
If it's bleeding under the tape the problem is the tape it's self.  Don't use tan masking tape.  You'll need either "Fine Line" automotive masking tape or the newer lime green Lacquer masking tape to lay down on your areas your painting.  Also, when laying tape you need to tug tightly so all the tape lays down flat and snug or it'll bleed everytime.

96218[/snapback]

​

one tip that is good for "bleeding" is to spray first with a clear over the area then apply the colour, the clear will do all the seeping, after reading all the good replies, there is a couple of things I would add, allow plenty of time for the lacquer to shrink before final wet sanding, I agree 200% about the colour of primer , some times if you have used a red glazing putty this will bleed through later over a light colour if there isn't enough primer...

I haven't used the two part epoxy paints it sounds like it's the cats Azz, but I have had very good results buying lacquer past touch up paint in aerosol, duplicolour, classic lacquer are both excellent...

while we are on the topic of paint, I have the colour codes for my 80 bud but they are for emron paint, can you bring these codes to an automotive paint store and get them cross referenced?

 

[Don Ferrette]

one tip that is good for "bleeding" is to spray first with a clear over the area then apply the colour, the clear will do all the seeping.......

96231[/snapback]

​

If you use the correct tape it will not "bleed" or "seep". Like Big Daddy suggested get the 3M blue fine line tape from any good paint supplier. It's not cheap but it is worth it's weight in gold for giving a clean sharp tape line. Also one big thing- ALWAYS put the roll back in it's little "baggie" when you are done using it. Otherwise the dust & airborne grit will find it's way onto the edges of roll & that pricey little spool of tape ain't gonna be worth poop. :huh:

 

[[email protected]]

Hey Rodney, I tried the SEM primer in the rattlecan you talked about a while back.  I like it.  Works good, sands easily enough, and the convenience of no gun to setup/cleanup.  good tip  B)   This went over west system epoxy nicely.  did you have a problem with the sem?

96230[/snapback]

​

Glad that tip worked for you.

I never used the SEM over West System epoxy. I was just visualizing a smooth surface with really no area to absorb into. BUt after hearing what you h=guys are saying I trust it works.

 

[Brian MAhoney]

Brian i presume you mean the paint for the winshield blead under the tape onto the hull or cowl area??? Yes the 1200 should remove it as long as it not to thick, it will take a little work...be carefull not to sand the paint off!!!! go slow..watch your progress!!!later, Dean

96204[/snapback]

​

Yes thats the one. Thanks Ill work slow with plenty of water.

Again Thanks to everyone that has posted.