Grim racer parts Ms Vegas

[SayMikey]

What are the proper part numbers for these parts? Is there a better way to do the shaft?

 

[eagle927]

What are the proper part numbers for these parts? Is there a better way to do the shaft?

Mike I went to a 3/16 shaft for mine worked out fine........

 

[larcor69]

turn fin is AQUB9515 and I found the best prop to be an octura Y537/3 as far as the shaft, which strut does your boat have? aluninum ver.2 or the brass vers. 1?

 

[SayMikey]

turn fin is AQUB9515 and I found the best prop to be an octura Y537/3 as far as the shaft, which strut does your boat have? aluninum ver.2 or the brass vers. 1?

Alum.

 

[Aaron Johnson]

So your really gonna race it huh?? Thats cool. Class is growing, a buddy of mine who was into RC cars just went and picked his up yesterday and filled out his IMPBA app. As for the shaft I found aint really anything wrong with the alum shaft that's on it. After Brian and Wayne was showing me how to solder the end of it. It ran just as well as Brian's with the bigger shaft. The alum was alot better than the thin brass one. That white plastic rudder control arm and the rudder itself is my biggest prob, they keep breaking, be nice to find to find something that wont break. Brian could attest to how many rudders we broke last year, it was crazy

 

[Don Brown]

So your really gonna race it huh?? Thats cool. Class is growing, a buddy of mine who was into RC cars just went and picked his up yesterday and filled out his IMPBA app. As for the shaft I found aint really anything wrong with the alum shaft that's on it. After Brian and Wayne was showing me how to solder the end of it. It ran just as well as Brian's with the bigger shaft. The alum was alot better than the thin brass one. That white plastic rudder control arm and the rudder itself is my biggest prob, they keep breaking, be nice to find to find something that wont break. Brian could attest to how many rudders we broke last year, it was crazy

The only thing wrong with the rudder is the driver, if keep it off the bouys, the bank, and don't hit any ducks it will last a long time, also use a 4-40 brass screw as your shear bolt. We have been running almost two years with the same rudder and you know how many bouys my daughter has hit and have never lost a rudder. A far as the tiller arm I agree, let me look atrough my junk box and see what I can find.

DonB

 

[larcor69]

that aluminum strut and cable in stock form has givin my vegas 2 year's of trouble free service, I did replace the rudder with a accu-tech "A" size rudder, world of differance, also I recommend using a octura flex coupler also for the .150 cable!! other than that, depends on if the class is allowing stock engine, pipe,modded hull...ect fun and great little boat!!, oh, and square and sharpen the sponson's and hull with block 400 grit try not to go through the gelcoat though, have fun

 

[Aaron Johnson]

It wasn't the driver......not always, maybe some ginormous turtles or something out there with scratches in their shells :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[Don Brown]

It wasn't the driver......not always, maybe some ginormous turtles or something out there with scratches in their shells :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

I found you a alum tiller arm. I will bring it to the show/meeting next weekend.

DonB

 

[Aaron Johnson]

Cool, keeps me from buying all the replacement arms I was getting ready to buy. I figured on buying five, one for each points race :lol: :lol: :lol: