gas scale weight (i think i built a pig)

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jeffaustin

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
391
Tim Strange came by with his digital scale to weigh my gas scale 79 circus, NOT GOOD, RTR weight 19.5 lbs

We started breaking down hardware and such

hull w/ canopy 12.5 lbs

motor w/ pipe 5 lbs

running hardware 1.5

the good news is my driver only weighed 2 oz.

we also weighed my glass thunder boat RTR 17.5 lbs just for comparision
 
Hi,

I just got back from a UPS packing & shipping store. I need to ship a scale 60 nitro boat. This boat weighs almost 17lbs no motor.

Just for information.
 
You have to remember that your boat is 20% larger than a traditional scale so being heavier is normal. By comparison, I have a glass scale 7474 that overloads a 15 pound scale with just the hull, engine, running gear and rudder.
 
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Jeff,that doesn't sound bad to me.My T-6 weighs in at 23 lbs with wood hull,glass cowl,driver with cockpit floor,rigid fuel tank,radio,hardware,aluminum turbine tube,K-30 engine with aluminum pipe,and 12 oz. of lead in left sponson.The guys in the Pacific Northwest told me a number of their boats run over 20 lbs.I also think my boat is too heavy.I'm working at getting the CG forward.See you this spring.

Harvey
 
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That weight is about where most of the GAS scales are weighing in at in the PNWTA. You should be ok.
 
I worked a little too hard to build a light boat. It came out around 16 pounds before I added 2 pounds of lead and a much beefier turn fin and mount. Twenty pounds is very reasonable. A well developed 29 cc Zenoah has plenty of power for 12 second laps.

Lohring Miller
 
Just weighed my 8255...comes in at a whopping 21 pounds 10 ounces RTR with a full bag of fuel...OINK OINK OINK!

I did build in some weight to get the C/G close...but WOWZA! C/G is 2 1/2 inches behind the sponsons.
 
Tim,I believe the other 8255 hulls at the Evansville race were about the same weight as yours,depending on whether they had tail fins,aluminum or steel pipes,and sheeting thickness.Strut depth,shaft angle,and prop will make a big difference in speed.I used 3/32"plywood for the entire bottom.If I were to build this or another turbine style hull ,I would use 3/32" for the tunnel or tub bottom and 1/16" elsewhere.

Moving the strut and prop rearward like the real T-6 made a noticeable difference on my boat.I still have a bunch of testing to do.My boat is between 22 and 23 lbs. with no fuel.I felt sorry for the retrieve boat crew who dragged my boat into the retrieve boat on rounds 1 and 2.With water in it,it is really heavy.I found the easiest way to get the boat out of the water when it comes in running is to bring it in next to the dock and get in the water to lift it out.It wants to pull you in if you reach out and down from the dock to grab it.The T-6 is 28" wide.

I think the gas scale guys are going to do a lot of work this summer.

Harvey
 
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Yeah these things can be a bear to pull out of the water...that is why I think anyone running this class must be willing to help retrieve them.

Jeff and I have compartmentalized the sponsons and the rear sections of the hull aft of the engine just to reduce the amount of water the boat can take on. Both of us have used what I call the "Crapper Trapper Flapper" ... which is simply a hinged flap at the rear of the deck (behind the cowling) pops open to let the water out. It may not be possible on some hulls like your T6.

From doing a lot of retrieval during races I have found that some boats just don't have any way to let the water out...which could lead to possible damage to the boat and possibly the retrieval guy!
 
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Tim, your idea on gas scale dead boat retrieval is fine with me. I do think it is much easier to lift these boats out of the water with two hands. There are few if any places on most of these boats that you can grab with one hand. I don't think safety would be compromised if retrieval of running boats were only done to the left of the dock, and the retriever left the water as soon as he has his boat.

Harvey
 

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