First time trying FE

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Brad, What turn fin do you recommend for the boat. I will need to get a line one one. I already have the rest of the hardware., Ryon
 
Plz buy your self a turnigy marine ESC 100 or an 120 amp , use 4mm connectors , the esc will be programmable , you can set the LVC = low voltage cut off .

plz dont mess around with cheap esc's , You will end up hating FE powered boats,

hope this helps you . if you need some pic's of these items , I will post them here 4 u,

Darryl
 
I second Darryl as soon you start having fun with Fe you will become an addicted like me..

Gill
 
Yeah, you could throw a seaking 120 in the lil rigger...even though it has a 28mm motor and using 3S lipo...little overkill won't hurt. And like Gill mentioned...the esc could be used later on for a bit bigger boat if you (or your 8 yo daughter) get "bit" by the FE Bug!! ...BTW...if it were Gill's 16" rigger, he would probably just cram a 240 amp ESC in it...lol! Just kidding Gill! ; )
 
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I think I'll stick with the 60 amp and 2s for power. I might like it to much and keep it for myself. HEHE
 
Ryon, if you can, go with 3S packs...you will be much happier with performance...you will be just fine with that seaking 60 ESC. ; )
 
Well, looks like this is the rigger you have:

http://www.tobsd.com/ViewDetails.aspx?ProductID=136

And here are the specs and recommended setup:

Description

l Material : Ultra-Strong Coated Wood

l Water tight seal

l Length : 19.5" inch / 495mm

l Width : 260mm

l Height : 55mm

l Pre-installed P1.4 X D27 mm Propeller

l Boat Stand: Plywood

l Shaft Drive System: 3.18mm Flex Cable Drive

l Net Weight : 290g

l Gross Weight : 900g

l The boat painted is that clear coat. And it is watertight

Not included in the package:

l 2CH or 3CH transmitter and receiver (Not Included)

l 11.1V3S 1800MA 20C battery (Not Included)

l Motor: 130size BL2040 KV3000 Brushless Water Cooled (Not Included)

l ESC: 40A Brushless water Cooled (Not Included)

l Mini servo (Not Included)
 
Nice advises here......240A would be fine Hotwater.
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Well, After weeks of waiting on parts in working long hours at the BIG house, I finally got the boat back together. I didn't burn any thing up this time(a plus) but after about ten feet it shuts down. I brought it to the bank and even under no load it does the same thing. I will try and post a video for some advice and answers to my problem. I'm not above shipping the boat to someone to get it fixed. Thanks in advance for the help or ideas. Ryon
 
Hi Ryon,

I'm no authority and kind of a newbie, but I've had a similar problem. I don't know what ESC you have but I suspect you might have the low voltage cut off set too high. In one of my boats that draws a lot of amps, if I set the LVC where it should theoretically be the voltage drops enough to engage the cutoff and the motor stops even without a load on it. On some ESC's you can shut the LVC off completely, and on others you can just set the value lower. Just beware that you really need to time your runs and be careful not to discharge the batteries too much. Just run for a minute or so and recharge your battery and see how much juice you put back in so you know how many mah you've used in a minute and then knowing how many mah your battery is, you can figure out how long you can run without discharging the battery too much. I'm not real sure, but you really don't want to let the battery discharge below 3.3 volts or so. I'm just speaking from my limited experience and from some of the things I have read. You might want to go to the Offshore Electrics forum. There's a wealth of knowledge about electrics over there.

Hope this helps,

Bob
 
Ryon,

Might need to add extra caps (or remove the old and replace) to the motor controller. Or.. you have a bad solder joint..

Grim
 
Mike, ESC is a new seaking 60A, I'm just starting with the soldering.How do or can I tell if the joint is good.
 
shawdaddy said:
Mike, ESC is a new seaking 60A, I'm just starting with the soldering.How do or can I tell if the joint is good.
Click to expand...
Shawdaddy, I'll try to help.....first, if you can tin the wire and/or tab on the component, do so.... If you're doing this without a jig, try your best not to move the wire/component as it cools, or it will have a dull color to it which is called a disturbed joint.... Doesn't mean it won't hold, but a good solder joint that's has equal heat applied to it and cools properly will look reasonably smooth and a bit shiny....a clamping jig of some sort really helps me as I'm a bit of a "shaker"!! practice is the only thing that makes you better! over heating the joint will leave the same dull kinda gray color as well....!
 

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