FE Tunnel Questions

[casey]

I’m looking to build a FE Tunnel. In the past I’ve had a few OS .21 Villain S1’s and I have had a new Aquacraft VS1 sitting on the shelf for some time needing to get wet. I’m thinking this one may get electric power. I’m just needing to know where to start. Would buying a new Aquacraft UL-1 Superior and using all the electronics be a wise decision or would a AquaCraft SuperVee 27R be a better choice? If I went with one of those I’d probably go with a OS .21 XM lower unit w/ Hyperformance Products electric conversion kit for the OS XM.

Or Hyperformance Products sells a complete electric motor that’s ready to go for about the same price as a complete nitro OS .21 XM . below is a link to it. is it a good motor with decent performance?

http://hyperprod.biz...c_outboard.html

Another option I’ve thought about is just buying a Pro Boat's Stiletto 29, but I’m not sure about the quality and performance of it.

I've heard rumers Aquacraft may be releasing a rtr FE Tunnel in the future, is there any truth to this?

Thanks and any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[HOTWATER]

Go with the UL-1 AC motor and esc ---> http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=dh-aqcom-2030 , Hyper FE conversion and the OS lower(Great lower end)...

Get some 5.5 bullet connectors for all of the esc, motor and lipo leads (get rid of the stock motor lead bullet connectors)---> http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ose-55bullet

Also, Hyperion makes very good Lipos and chargers...money well spent with them...get 4S 5000 mah packs with a C rating of at least 35 ---> http://rclipos.com/index.htm

-Kent

 

[Joe Steele]

I have a Pro Boat's Stiletto 29 and it's a lot of fun to run but not competitive. Darin has a lot to say about the Stiletto on Offshore Electrics. I agree with what Kent has to say but would add that I have been using Hobby King Turnigy batteries and have found them better than my Thunderpower batteries. Our club has just started running FE and I plan to run my Vacu-pickle hydro and VS-1 with UL-1 motor, ESC and a Hyperformance lower. Should be fun.

 

[casey]

thanks for the info!

 

[camaroboy383]

if you end up goin the ul1 route i have one for sale thats only been wet a couple times... would come in original box with paperwork and all.....

alden

 

[casey]

i think i've bought everything i need to get going. now i need to start on the hull, fun!

Aquacraft VS1 w/ Hot Shot Sprint 3.5 Cowl

AquaCraft UL-1 Motor & Esc Power Package

OS .21 XM lower unit and Hyperformance Products conversion kit

AquaCraft GrimRacer Prop 42x55

Hitec Aggressor SRX Pro 3-ch Transmitter w/ Hitec Atom 3-ch Receiver

(2) Hyperion G3 CX 5000 MAH 4S 14.4V 25C/45C LiPo

Hyperion EOS720I Net 3 Ad/Dc Charger

 

[HOTWATER]

Nice!!

 

[Robert Elder]

Just a suggestion...

Once you have made your changes to accomodate the batteries, carefully seal all the seams all around the hull. I would do one or two coats of West Systems Expoxy or the like. I have had quite a few water leaks into the hull on mine - eventhough I did go around the seams with an exacto knife blade and sealed any edge that I thought might be a problem. It turns out that I didn't do a good enough job with that and now have water damage. I think I have stopped all the leaks now but I also have some rot in the wood/foam on the underside of the hull at the back.

 

[moparbarn]

Just a suggestion...

Once you have made your changes to accomodate the batteries, carefully seal all the seams all around the hull. I would do one or two coats of West Systems Expoxy or the like. I have had quite a few water leaks into the hull on mine - eventhough I did go around the seams with an exacto knife blade and sealed any edge that I thought might be a problem. It turns out that I didn't do a good enough job with that and now have water damage. I think I have stopped all the leaks now but I also have some rot in the wood/foam on the underside of the hull at the back.

not just a suggestion, but a necessary step B)

 

[casey]

good info, thanks!

 

[HOTWATER]

Now...get in touch with Mark Sholund (he's on these boards) and get him to work some magic on that 42x55 prop you bought and you will have a great performer!!

-Kent

 

[BrianTooms]

Here's the VS1 I just finished, I left the front box with the servo and made a battery box in between. The steering cables and an extension esc wire are sealed to keep them seperately waterproof.

 

[Tim leyde]

Casey

Check out my build thread.

My First FE Build ( VS1 ).

http://www.intlwaters.com/index.php?showtopic=48517&hl=&fromsearch=1

TL

 

[lohring]

As you get the urge to run faster you will find several problems with your equipment. The stock connectors will get hot enough to soften the solder and fail. Replace them with 5.5 mm bullet connectors. The Aquacraft ESC will also get hot. It's a tough unit but has a high internal resistance. Replace it with a Turnigy Marine (not Aquastar) 120 amp ESC. We now run the VS-1 at very similar speeds to nitro powered boats. The Grim Racer 42 x 55 prop has proved to be very good with modifications.

Lohring Miller

 

[Chilli]

Casey, I got rid of the clear coat on my sons VS1 and sealed it properly. I was afraid once the clear started chipping and peeling that water would start soaking into the hull. I know it's another messy step in the build process but it's worth the effort. I second Lohring on replacing the Motor to ESC bullets. I have used good quality 5.5mm's and 4's with no problems. I have never had heat issues with the Aquacraft speed controller and I run them in four boats (two of them with the 42x55). That controller is one of three that we allow in my district and the only failure we had district wide in two seasons was caused by the stock motor/ESC bullet failing. I stripped gears on the Hitec 645mg servo twice last season on my sons VS1 after blow overs. I have moved up to 985mg's this season in both our tunnel boats. We'll see what happens.

My best advice to you If you want to get into racing is to see what the guys in your district are using. The VS-1 is fun, fast and easy to drive but does have a tendancy to blow over in choppy water.

 

[casey]

I really appreciate all the info. Over the weekend I removed the original radio box and cut the deck out to the transom. Next my plan is to build a radio box similar to Tim’s and Chilli’s. What are the pros and cons of running the servo in the front or the rear? I’m leaning towards the rear, but would like to hear ya’lls opinions.

And when I placed my order I also loaded up with plenty of 5.5mm connectors. I’ll take some pictures of the progress.

 

[HTV Boats]

After rigging several FE setups my thought is always make the box as long as you can, and put the steering sevo as far forward as possible. Putting a servo in the rear assures you not being able to place battery weight as far back as you may need for proper handling. Each setup and propellor may require different weight placement so I rather have a wider range to move battery weight which is a large percentage of the total weight of the rig. You may compensate forward weight with trim in a straight line but oversteer needs a weight shift.

Mic

 

[HOTWATER]

After rigging several FE setups my thought is always make the box as long as you can, and put the steering sevo as far forward as possible. Putting a servo in the rear assures you not being able to place battery weight as far back as you may need for proper handling. Each setup and propellor may require different weight placement so I rather have a wider range to move battery weight which is a large percentage of the total weight of the rig. You may compensate forward weight with trim in a straight line but oversteer needs a weight shift.

Mic

I agree with Mic...

 

[Darin Jordan]

After rigging several FE setups my thought is always make the box as long as you can, and put the steering sevo as far forward as possible. Putting a servo in the rear assures you not being able to place battery weight as far back as you may need for proper handling. Each setup and propellor may require different weight placement so I rather have a wider range to move battery weight which is a large percentage of the total weight of the rig. You may compensate forward weight with trim in a straight line but oversteer needs a weight shift.

Mic

After rigging several FE setups my thought is always make the box as long as you can, and put the steering sevo as far forward as possible. Putting a servo in the rear assures you not being able to place battery weight as far back as you may need for proper handling. Each setup and propellor may require different weight placement so I rather have a wider range to move battery weight which is a large percentage of the total weight of the rig. You may compensate forward weight with trim in a straight line but oversteer needs a weight shift.

Mic

I agree with Mic...

Me Three...

I would also take the time to cut out the deck the entire length of the hull and make the radio box the full-length, and sitting right on the bottom of the hull, giving yourself as much height in the box as will fit under the cowl.

Now, all that being said, I have seem some VERY fast and well-handling OPC Tunnels in FE that had the servo at the back... Brian Buaas' TS-3 that holds the NAMBA SAW records is also his heat-racing boat, and it has the servo in the back, with the ESC underneath it, and it is the fastest OPC Tunnel on a regular race-day as well. It's incredibly well laid out, however, and every bit of space is utilized to the fullest.

 

[Chilli]

I just installed the servo toward the rear for the first time in a TS3 I just completed. I like the installation but my CG looks like it's going to be too far forward. We'll see what happens.