Blueprinting A Hull for Speed And Performance

[Baxter Walton]

Blueprinting A Hull for Speed And Performance: I will do a write up from beginning to end results on how I set up my LeeCrafts, No reflect on other set-ups, just what works for me. For a boat to be fast and have great handling its starts from the bottom up. Most hulls out of the mold do not come with sharp edges, I also add a speed coat to the rear of the transom and to the ride pads ( A thin rough layer of graphite/West System 423 Graphite Powder). I sharpen and define all edges of the bottom of the boat, and make sure that the ride surface is as flat as it can be. Rule of thumb, The less drag or resistance that a boat has the easier the motor will push the boat resulting in a boat that can get on and off the pipe, and one that will turn faster speeds. as you will see in the picture that the hull sponsons are not as sharp as can be. Top-end speed is the yardstick by which we usually measure a boat's performance, but it should not be the objective. "I want to go faster" can be achieved by simply adding more horsepower and turning a higher pitch prop or more RPM, but the objective here is to make a particular hull/engine combination run as efficiently and as fast as possible. Each hull design has characteristics that limit its top end speed capabilities with a given amount of horsepower. Test the drag on your boat, come in at full speed then kill the motor how far does your boat glide? my boat use to glide so far that my pit man would get mad, but the motor was killed way before the launch area. cornering Speed and handling plays a big factor in heat racing. It all starts with a good blue printed boat.

Just got this in and will start on it soon. I will post pics of the progress.

 

[John Knight]

I was taught many years ago, by some including a Hall of Fame member, that the yardstick we should be measuring a boat performance is NOT the top speed. Rather it should be the fastest lap time. If you have all of the boats performance improvements made, look at the fastest time that you can get. The boat doing the fastest lap wins and not just the fastest speed.

 

[Baxter Walton]

I was taught many years ago, by some including a Hall of Fame member, that the yardstick we should be measuring a boat performance is NOT the top speed. Rather it should be the fastest lap time. If you have all of the boats performance improvements made, look at the fastest time that you can get. The boat doing the fastest lap wins and not just the fastest speed.

I agree 100% I believe I said that as I Quote; Top-end speed is the yardstick by which we usually measure a boat's performance, but it should not be the objective. Cornering speed is very important in turning great laps, and by blueprinting done right, all these things falls into place along with speed.

 

[John Knight]

We both are saying the same thing. All factors have to be working correctly after the initial set up to get the fastest speed and fastest lap. What you are doing is the first step to that goal. Many guys have no clue how to do it so your info will be informative to many. Some performance secrets will be revealed.

 

[Baxter Walton]

John you are right, most guys get a new boat and the first thing that is done is paint and then strap a motor on the back. I spend a lot time in the fine details of the hull. There can be waves in the gel coat, or small imperfections. Never paint the bottom of A hull, Takes away from its original design. Blue printing a hull may be a lost practice for some. The strake and the dead rise,ride pads, and the starboard sponson are very important to print.

 

[Baxter Walton]

Done blueprinting the hull, now I will add a light layer of graphite powder, and sand again, but I will do that later, the lines on the hull are well defined and true, ride surfaces are flat, the front ride pads are also sharp and flat where they need to be. That allows for great corning speed and stability. Next I will start the paint. I use a RC paint (Pactra Polycarb) Light and ez to work with and great colors, then I clear with a automotive clear coat. I do not paint the area in which the radio box goes as that part is unseen, I try to not add unnecessary weight to the boat. I like to use a small wooden radio box, that is push to the front of the boat as much as possible, I never use the box that comes with any boat. I find that using my own box that is smaller I can move it around quite a bit to get the perfect balance of the hull. Next the paint.

 

[Brandon White]

I'm repainted my Vegas an was blueprinting it and notice some edge parts on sponsons have some nicks. How would you put an edge back on it?

 

[Baxter Walton]

I use suncure, works very well and just re sand back to original shape.

http://surfsource.net/store/category/sun_cure_repair_products/

 

[Baxter Walton]

This is it

 

[Bill Britton]

I'm repainted my Vegas an was blueprinting it and notice some edge parts on sponsons have some nicks. How would you put an edge back on it?

Marinetex epoxy putty. Made to bond to fiberglass and is white

http://www.marinetex.com/

 

[Baxter Walton]

Marinetex works as well,

 

[Baxter Walton]

Now time to start the painting, I like to put the stickers on after I paint then clear coat over them. Now that he boat is painted , time for the clear coat. I use a automotive clear which works well in resisting nitro

 

[RodneyPierce]

looks great Baxter!!

 

[Baxter Walton]

Greg This is not for all boats, I said this is how I set up MY LEE CRAFT, with no reflect on other boats and set ups? I thought I made it clear. So let me say it again. This is how I set up my Lee Craft to get the best performance from it. Which proved to be a great runner in NAMBA Dis 19 those who run 20 Lee Craft may get some great points. Greg your 100% right all boats are not the same and each boat requires different steps.

 

[Baxter Walton]

Clear coat is on!! now time to set this puppy up!

 

[Baxter Walton]

Holes drilled for the lower end, I was lucky to track down some of my old race parts that I had used, at a higher price of course lol Got one of my Irwin tune pipes back, and one of my team mates lawless lower ends, Mine was purple along with motor cooling head and cone and motor mount, looks like I have to send them out, but I am getting closer. The cav plate is made of high grade carbon fiber, and is wider then the normal ones which has made the Lee Craft a more aggressive boat. So after I mount my lower end, which I off set for prop tork, just a bit not much for a .21 boat and I do mean not much. Next on to the radio box and then the fuel tanks.

 

[Baxter Walton]

Almost done, just need to strip the cowl and paint it, and get the carb for the motor, the start cone for the motor,and the water cooled head for the motor, then send the motor out to get a 14.5mm crank made, then call Jimmy for props.

 

[Baxter Walton]

pics

 

[julianconde]

looks great baxter.

Julian

 

[Baxter Walton]

Thanks Julian ,I just re- painted the cowl, now I have to clear it, then put in radio box and servos, and the hull is complete.