Non permanent adhesive to glue a carb

Kez · Aug 25, 2014

All,

Several of my engines have the carb held by a draw bolt. They will always come loose from vibration. If the carb is new or if the neck of the carb has not been beaten up, Loctite will hold it while still allowing me to remove it for service.

I have a couple of carbs where the neck has been chewed up (by the draw bolt) and Loctite no long works, I used JB Weld on one of them and it worked great. But the problem is I could not remove the carb. I am looking for a non permanent adhesion to try next. Has anyone tried 5 min epoxy? Or even silicone to glue the carb? Any other ideas? I know I can drill and tap the backplate and use a set screw but at least on the OS, there is not enough material to tap a 6-32 or 8-32.

Thanks,

kez

Roy Munoz · Aug 25, 2014

Just use some J B weld on them ans your go to go..To get off just apply some heat and the J B weld well get soft enough so you can remove your carb..

brad nichols · Aug 25, 2014

JB Weld is what I use.

Brad

Robert Pickard · Aug 25, 2014

JB weld all the way

Kez · Aug 25, 2014

Thanks Roy and Brad. Did you have problem removing the carb afterwards? I did. I tried heating it with a torch to about the same temperature I would use to change the bearings. The JB Weld would not budge.

kez

Curtis Maglinger · Aug 25, 2014

I use silicone on all of our carbs for the past 30 years with never a loose carb. I put a little bead around the shank of the carb and push in.....should help seal it as well. Some say silicone might damage the aluminum, but we've never experienced that in the 30+ years of racing. Good luck.

Robert Pickard · Aug 25, 2014

Zez it will loosen with the torch

bzubee · Aug 26, 2014

Try the E6000 it is the only glue I have found that is fuel proof that you can glue sullivan tanks together with and not have them eventually come apart

Roy Munoz · Aug 26, 2014

I never had a problem removing a carb by heating the J B weld. It got soft and I just twisted the carb off.You just heated it too long..E6000 was a lot harder to remove for my likeing,but it grate stuff all right.

Will Gallagher · Aug 26, 2014

Maybe work on identifying the source of the vibration and eliminate it?

Chris Wood · Aug 26, 2014

Will Gallagher said:
Maybe work on identifying the source of the vibration and eliminate it?

winner winner..

if it is a vac 45 there is a fix for that.

also blue loctite?

TimothyJones · Aug 26, 2014

I had that problem when I used a solid motor mount. I used JB weld, and/or silicone(orange stuff) and sometimes loctite.

It seemed to all work well enough.

Glenn Quarles · Aug 26, 2014

Yeah I was also gonna say the solution to the problem is getting rid of the vibrations. You should never need to use any kind of glue on a motor.

GQ

JimZaremski · Aug 26, 2014

Curtis Maglinger said:
I use silicone on all of our carbs for the past 30 years with never a loose carb. I put a little bead around the shank of the carb and push in.....should help seal it as well. Some say silicone might damage the aluminum, but we've never experienced that in the 30+ years of racing. Good luck.

RTV (assuming that's what you mean by silicone) forms acetic acid (aka vinegar) while curing. probably not enough to damage aluminum to any meaningful extent.

Kez · Aug 26, 2014

Robert Pickard said:
Zez it will loosen with the torch

Robert, I tried the torch and it won't budge. Unlike the 5 min epoxy that will soften when heated, JB weld tends to turn dark and becomes brittle. How long do you heat it with the torch?

kez

Kez · Aug 26, 2014

Curtis Maglinger said:
I use silicone on all of our carbs for the past 30 years with never a loose carb. I put a little bead around the shank of the carb and push in.....should help seal it as well. Some say silicone might damage the aluminum, but we've never experienced that in the 30+ years of racing. Good luck.

Thanks for the reply. I may give it a try. As Jim has pointed out in his reply. RTV silicone releases acetic acid during cure. It is possible that it can corrode aluminum. It should be easy to remove the carb if it is glued using RTV silicone.

Kez · Aug 26, 2014

bzubee said:
Try the E6000 it is the only glue I have found that is fuel proof that you can glue sullivan tanks together with and not have them eventually come apart

I have never used the E6000. Do you get that from a hobby shop or a hardware store? I have a use for it if it can glue sullivan tanks together.

Kez · Aug 26, 2014

Roy Munoz said:
I never had a problem removing a carb by heating the J B weld. It got soft and I just twisted the carb off.You just heated it too long..E6000 was a lot harder to remove for my likeing,but it grate stuff all right.

I may have heated it too long. The JB weld just turned brittle where it is exposed but it still held the carb and won't let go

Kez · Aug 26, 2014

Will Gallagher said:
Maybe work on identifying the source of the vibration and eliminate it?

Hi Will,

I think the draw bolt is the problem. I have no problem with carb coming loose if it is held by set screws (like the K&B 3.5) or even the split type draw bolt (like the 8701 K&B 7.5 OB)

Kez · Aug 26, 2014

Chris Wood said:
Will Gallagher said:

Maybe work on identifying the source of the vibration and eliminate it?

Click to expand...

winner winner..

if it is a vac 45 there is a fix for that.

also blue loctite?

Chris, loctite will work if the neck of the carb has a good snug fit to the back plate. Once the neck has come loose and has gouges, Loctite will not work anymore.

Non permanent adhesive to glue a carb

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