Your input would help greatly

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Wally Teresch

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2006
Messages
206
I’m doing an exercise in design and input from the members on here would be invaluable.

A couple of years back I was at a boat race in MI and was doing some last minute tuning of my boat when it died in the middle of the pond. Not a big pond but when all you are using is a rod and a ball it is pretty big. Long story short I slipped and broke my ankle. The medical staff put on a temporary cast and sent me back to Canada along with a ridiculous medical bill for what they had done. One plate and nine screws later it was on the mend. I had a lot of time on my hands when I wasn’t crawling around.

During that time I designed and built a pretty basic retrieve boat. Had an old Dumas 40 hull that I butchered up, a few carbon fiber rods, a Graupner drive unit, blue foam and some ABS downspout finished it off. In the truck the whole thing has a footprint of 9”X10”X42”. On the water the capture cavity (where the dead boat is) measures 27”X18”. I have sent it out to retrieve small 20 monos all the way up to a gas crackerbox. It can be assemble in under a minute. It has forward or reverse, a camera, it’s unsinkable and turns on a dime.(literally). Everyone who has used it thinks it’s great.

So here is my challenge. Here is where the memberships’ input comes in. I would like to improve on what I have. A rev 2 version so to speak. I want to make it functional, easy to construct, and cheaper than what I have now. While it is being built I’m going to put together some plans and share them with the members on IW. If it helps avoid injury (or sometimes even death) to one fellow modeler it will be worth the effort.

First step, what features/characteristics do you want in a retrieve boat

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I believe the best retrieve boat is simply a little electric boat with a long line from a fishing reel attached to it. Just drive the electric boat around the dead boat and reel them both in. The big catch a boat type rigs I have seen have tended to push the dead boat under the water. The little boat with a line attached is just simpler, cheaper, and easier.
 
I cannot recall who but someone on here had awesome retriever and from his videos showed no pushing the boat under! Maybe try some searching on here and see what you can find...
 
one of these with a fishing reel would work great. http://towerhobbies....aft/aqub14.html
When you use a fishing line aren't you worried about the rudder or the prop cutting the line? Latch onto a big 90 or gas cat with a line on a sharpened rudder and all the time you're pulling it towards you stern first (as well as pulling the electric boat also). Something is gonna give.

I tried a small electric boat with a fishing line. The weight and tension on the line pulled the transom down on the retrieve and it soon ran out of power (and shorted out the electronics).

Maybe my boats just die more often than other peoples'. LOL
 
I cannot recall who but someone on here had awesome retriever and from his videos showed no pushing the boat under! Maybe try some searching on here and see what you can find...
That is one of the issues I need to resolve. When going out after my D hydro the retrieve tends to 'climb' over one of the rigger's sponsons. It is like the 'capture area' is too large for the rigger.
 
If you use a braided line the rudder won't cut it. Ive seen a couple bobbers used to stop the line from getting in the prop. Don't use the boat to pull it in. Just drive around the dead boat and reel them both in.
 
Bob Miller has a FANTASTIC retrieve boat. Electric with 2 large sponsons and is wide enough for the largest boat retrieval. He drives it to the back of the deag boat and pushes it in. He has saved me more times than I care to say. Tom
 
I had the same problem 4 years ago. I bought a ruber two man raft for $170.00, and a 12 volt electric air pump. It takes less than 10 minutes to take the boat out of the trunk of my car, and inflate. Just an idea. Richard
 
I'm building my third rescue rig now, they are kind of evolving after a few years of rescue on practice days. My first rig was a Traxxas Villain Ex with a PVC frame big enough for a scale. It works great, the twin steerable outdrives make it really maneuverable forward and backwards. I solved the riding up over riggers with a 6" tip of a fishing rod mounted so its sticking down in front of the bow between the arms. It even snagged the cowl of a .12 rigger.

I was given a Vac-U-Tug to try last year and the single tug prop is way more efficient at pushing but the steering in reverse is not very good with the single rudder. The tug has gone on to the Calgary Sailing Club to retrieve sail boats so I'm building it's bigger brother the Vac-U-Tow. It's more along the lines of a Springer tug. It has a bigger motor and two extra flanking rudders for better control in reverse.

For a lot of little kids that come by the pond it's the first boat they ever drive so this one will have some extra features. (hopefully if I get it all wired up)

Here's some pics and video's, that's Keith Warham's Maverick in some of the shot's. Allan I think you have had a push too. :)

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http://youtu.be/NrIcC8eO3Wg

http://youtu.be/fX0D-GtL6Zk

The new build is going to look something like this

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If you use a braided line the rudder won't cut it. Ive seen a couple bobbers used to stop the line from getting in the prop. Don't use the boat to pull it in. Just drive around the dead boat and reel them both in.
With the fishing line be it braided or not, how do you hook onto a flipped rigger? Not very much to snag on one of those except possibly the tip of the glow plug.

A scale that has flipped would even be more challenging as you may hook the driver's head when it is underwater (and I'm sure he wouldn't like to be ripped out of his seat LOL)
 
I see a lot of nice ideas in what the guys have built. This is meant more as a "Needs Analysis". That is to say, a list of the requirements for a retrieve boat.

I don't see anyone concerned about the room the retrieve takes up in the car, What is the desired size that would be optimal for you guys especially when traveling out of town?

No concerns regarding pushing power and power source? Is brushless preferred over brushed motors? Are nickel metal cells your choice over lipos?

Cost is always a factor. How much are you going to spend before you say 'this is too much'?
 
If you use a braided line the rudder won't cut it. Ive seen a couple bobbers used to stop the line from getting in the prop. Don't use the boat to pull it in. Just drive around the dead boat and reel them both in.
With the fishing line be it braided or not, how do you hook onto a flipped rigger? Not very much to snag on one of those except possibly the tip of the glow plug.

A scale that has flipped would even be more challenging as you may hook the driver's head when it is underwater (and I'm sure he wouldn't like to be ripped out of his seat LOL)
I made a sort of floating grappling hook out of a fish stringer from Walmart tied to some floating flyfishing line, but I never really need it I've been able to push the boats in.

I see a lot of nice ideas in what the guys have built. This is meant more as a "Needs Analysis". That is to say, a list of the requirements for a retrieve boat.

I don't see anyone concerned about the room the retrieve takes up in the car, What is the desired size that would be optimal for you guys especially when traveling out of town?

No concerns regarding pushing power and power source? Is brushless preferred over brushed motors? Are nickel metal cells your choice over lipos?

Cost is always a factor. How much are you going to spend before you say 'this is too much'?
I think a brushed motor is the way to go, cheap, good slow speed control and hours of runtime you might find an old cordless drill that you can salvage. I'm using LiPo's just because it's easier for me to keep all my batteries the same when charging but the weight of NIMH's helps in a tug.

If my boat was big enough I'd use a 12v gel cell like we use for starters and glow drivers.

The tugboat props are the big difference too take a look at what guys are using in the scale tugboats for power and batteries. The Springer tugs have a ton of towing power and are getting pretty popular for competitions. Plans for Springers are available free and it's a pretty simple build.

http://www.rcgroups....ad.php?t=522762

For transporting them, I'm running out of room in my truck but putting PVC unions on the rescue arms helped a lot The VAC-U-Tug and Vac-U-Tow are supposed to fit in a 26" toolbox that will make things easier as well.
 
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Mine cost me less than $70 to build as I had most of the stuff available in the shop. That is not counting the camera and the drive unit which cost twice that. That is the biggest hurdle for me.The Graupner Schottel II drive The unit is good as it takes the prop through 220 degrees of rotation but it is overkill. Also it has an 8000 rpm limit because of the plastic parts. I had to run a reduction gear so as not to exceed the 8K limit. Putting on a bigger prop was a lot of hassle and cobbling.

So what to do? I have a couple of 19mm jet drives and a K&B outboard lower. What I'd like to get is a cheap, light outboard lower to mount the electric motor on. A friend of mine told me of a bare bones unit that looked like it was just some tubing and brass plate soldered together. Anyone know where these might be available? I need to try and copy one.
 
I see a lot of nice ideas in what the guys have built. This is meant more as a "Needs Analysis". That is to say, a list of the requirements for a retrieve boat.

I don't see anyone concerned about the room the retrieve takes up in the car, What is the desired size that would be optimal for you guys especially when traveling out of town?

No concerns regarding pushing power and power source? Is brushless preferred over brushed motors? Are nickel metal cells your choice over lipos?

Cost is always a factor. How much are you going to spend before you say 'this is too much'?
I made mine with the size in consideration. I knew that no matter what it was taking up a seat in the car (Ford Taurus the beater) So I made it to fit exactly in the whole seat. For transport over long distance mine can be taking apart it's a couple screws. I went Brushless cause I had it but would do it again for efficiency, I found that brushless uses less battery to do the same job as a brushed motor. Power needed to be decent but wanted something with a ton of torque 32t or 910kv crawler motor. I use LiPo's in everything I own so that was never a question. If I totaled up the cost I would be in it for around $180, but I had a lot of the parts already so it cost me about $70.

It costs as much as it costs to get it done. I was on a mission to not get wet anymore and have to lug the boat or blowup boat to the pond.

Chris
 
By far I have seen some excellent ideas, from simple to exotic, with out an actual retreive boat you can row out and get your hull ,the idea that Tom has is as I see is the best, and I use , a little rc boat with a fishing reel and line attached to it, a 4' metal leader line then the strylen line, let the little boat circle your stalled boat then reel in both at once works the best when its outside of your pole to cast a tennis ball to retrieve
 
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