Zippkits 33FE Electronics Layout

[Raymond Ogle]

Hi All,
I am building my first boat, a Zippkits 33fe. Been a great build so far. I am wondering how everyone lays out their electronics. I would love to see some pictures, advice, etc.

 

[RaceMechaniX]

None of there are mine, but just some pics I saved.

 

[Raymond Ogle]

Thank you

 

[ricwally]

Most if not all pictures above are of the original Zippkits 21 FE. Zippkits 33FE was designed with an aft battery setup and came with a flat metal motor mounting plate.

 

[Raymond Ogle]

Most if not all pictures above are of the original Zippkits 21 FE. Zippkits 33FE was designed with an aft battery setup and came with a flat metal motor mounting plate.

Thank you. Ya, I noticed the difference. Still trying to get ideas.

 

[RaceMechaniX]

These are not JAE's, but good for ideas.

 

[J.J. Horvath]

Here is the best layout for the 33FE we have found. Performs better with battery in the rear.

 

[ricwally]

That is the standard layout for the JAE FE Riggers. Take it for what it is worth. But I move all my motors aft in the riggers like the early 21FE boat were. I have three other JAE riggers that the motor has been relocated aft after building. I also have a 33 FE that I haven't run in a long time just because I didn't like all the aft weight being carried by the ski and prop. This is especially true when using larger (6S, 8S, etc) high C rated batteries. The hull never releases from the water. It makes it look like a dog dragging its ass across the ground. JJ may say that you get the best performance rigged like this. But I am not sure that he has tried relocating the motor aft 5 or six inches from the transom.
If motor is aft. It gives you more battery location options. And it takes the majority of the weight off of the back of the boat. Much more like nitro boats carrying the weight on the sponsons. Not relying on the prop having to lift all the battery weight creating additional load on the motor.
Some people say that an FE rigger needs all that weight on the rear. I call BS on that. Just my limited knowledge.
Do what you want with the 33. It will perform like the instructions say to build it. There are many of them out running that people are very happy with.
You were asking for ideas. I am giving you my two cents worth of ideas that I have found that other JAE riggers like. Eventually, I will be switching my 33FE over to a rear mounted motor. Just no interest right now with many other test boats in the works.
Here is a picture of one of my aft motor JAE riggers.

 

[J.J. Horvath]

I’ve ran both layouts, motor front and rear, and prefer the front layout for a few reasons. I race both 4S and 6s versions, but don’t use a huge amount of capacity in the battery, it’s not needed. It might drag ass with 10k mah in the rear, but I can usually finish the race and complete an extra lap with just 6s-5000mah. So I doubt it’s inefficient and dragging because of the electronics layout. I’d focus more on turn fin setup and adjusting front boom tube collars. Those two items not correct can cause 10+ mph difference.

 

[Raymond Ogle]

Here is the best layout for the 33FE we have found. Performs better with battery in the rear.

Thank you.

 

[Raymond Ogle]

That is the standard layout for the JAE FE Riggers. Take it for what it is worth. But I move all my motors aft in the riggers like the early 21FE boat were. I have three other JAE riggers that the motor has been relocated aft after building. I also have a 33 FE that I haven't run in a long time just because I didn't like all the aft weight being carried by the ski and prop. This is especially true when using larger (6S, 8S, etc) high C rated batteries. The hull never releases from the water. It makes it look like a dog dragging its ass across the ground. JJ may say that you get the best performance rigged like this. But I am not sure that he has tried relocating the motor aft 5 or six inches from the transom.
If motor is aft. It gives you more battery location options. And it takes the majority of the weight off of the back of the boat. Much more like nitro boats carrying the weight on the sponsons. Not relying on the prop having to lift all the battery weight creating additional load on the motor.
Some people say that an FE rigger needs all that weight on the rear. I call BS on that. Just my limited knowledge.
Do what you want with the 33. It will perform like the instructions say to build it. There are many of them out running that people are very happy with.
You were asking for ideas. I am giving you my two cents worth of ideas that I have found that other JAE riggers like. Eventually, I will be switching my 33FE over to a rear mounted motor. Just no interest right now with many other test boats in the works.
Here is a picture of one of my aft motor JAE riggers.

Thank you. Good info.

 

[Raymond Ogle]

I’ve ran both layouts, motor front and rear, and prefer the front layout for a few reasons. I race both 4S and 6s versions, but don’t use a huge amount of capacity in the battery, it’s not needed. It might drag ass with 10k mah in the rear, but I can usually finish the race and complete an extra lap with just 6s-5000mah. So I doubt it’s inefficient and dragging because of the electronics layout. I’d focus more on turn fin setup and adjusting front boom tube collars. Those two items not correct can cause 10+ mph difference.

Thank you again. Good stuff.

 

[Bryan haley]

Here is the best layout for the 33FE we have found. Performs better with battery in the rear.

View attachment 310463

Yea that's what zipp suggest I ran it that way and it's handles better with the rear setup I got mine like that with the esc in between the motor and the batteries the shorter the wires to the battery and esc the less power gets bleed off through the wires
I had to lose the battery tray to fit the 6s 6000 pack that's the biggest one I could fit

 

[Raymond Ogle]

Great. Ty