Which Gas Cat to buy

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RobertDoak

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Hello Daniel
Thanks for the info...
Aeromarine doesent supply setup sheets or the blueprints any longer...
And yes a longer rudder standoff is in order..
Propworks Bob suggested the 6717/3 #505 prop for the Aeromarine and running 18500 RPM...what would be the difference....im NOT a prop guy..
So engine forward.....tuck the pull start under the deck..? Or just up to the deck.
this is just to reduce the amount of added nose weight..?
Thanks for all the info...
 

RobertDoak

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So im looking at the overall lines of the Aeromarine Conquest and wondering why is there a water inlet on the front deck...is there a purpose for this other than ingesting every drop of water possible while heat racing20191215_195522.jpg
 

RobertDoak

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So I now understand about a wrap to center header cant be tuned...it cant be cut short enough to tune to a pipe..
So its a 105° header pipe
 

RobertDoak

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Eddie.
The 90° would be the easiest way to get it done...but I like to not hack up the cowl...not just yet....I opened up the middle area where the pipe is designed to exit..and will try to work with that....then hack up the cowl and just get a 90° and be done with it...yea I know...hard headed...20191212_195638.jpg
 

Daniel's Racing

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You are not going to like the pipe over the radio box. Much better is a 2" 90° and go right out the back.

Oh bot I see the pictures messed up the whole page. Should have resized them. Take a look and I will delete them so page returns to normal.





 

RobertDoak

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Daniel..
I see....so how much of the rear cowl gets whacked off....not that I'm apposed to hacking stuff up...im just slow at doing it.
 

Daniel's Racing

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Daniel..
I see....so how much of the rear cowl gets whacked off....not that I'm apposed to hacking stuff up...im just slow at doing it.
Robert,
The cowl doesn't have to be cut for the exhaust. It can be run out the transom itself. I am looking for pictures as I actually forget but to stay under the canopy it has to be kept relatively low.
Don't worry about making forward facing holes you have to have them as it can't run closed up. You need a bunch coming in and a large area for it to exit.
Deck scoop, canopy sparkplug scoop up top, sides of canopy, the windshield and mast of the rear of it need holes. The deck and scoop up top do affect the handling at top speed. Best to leave those two for last if you are still building too much heat in the boat.
 
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RobertDoak

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20191218_153026.jpg Capture+_2019-12-18-15-24-45-1.png So is a drop pipe workable to keep everything inclosed...or am I just making way more out of this than it really is
This is what i currently have as far as cutouts
And the rears are open also..
Im actually thinking about removing the forward deck water intake scoop...and just have the forward deck a smooth contour to the windshield area.
 
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john v

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hey Robert, the way I ran my conquest was with a 90deg header and the pipe ran out of the hull, it looks like you want to get more of a scale appearance by laying the pipe down inside the hull. I will admit it will look cool but I think all that heat with a full cowl may affect performance due to the motor drawing in all that hot air, my cowl was cut about halfway and this allowed plenty of warm air to escape and cool air for the motor. like I meantioned before you might have to reinforce the underside of the cowl in case you stuff it the cowl wont buckle
 

RobertDoak

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John...
For now I would like to keep the overall look as scale as possible...I have no issues with cutting fiberglass...but I need to have a reason...and once I mentally understand why I will whack the Heck out of it...I do like the 90° header idea..the hydros have a 90° with a drop that looks like it would work in the Cat hull and exit right out the rear transom...
But for now I will do what the masses have done and 90° the header...the Aeromarine radio box is now my biggest problem....its too short...a 1/4 scale servo wont fit...and im not a digital servo guy.....well not yet ..im fighting that all the way...
If you have a pic please send it my way especially of your cowl
 

RobertDoak

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So the build is underway....skeg strut set and rudder bracket mounted....radio box from Aeromarine is not the right size..so I ordered a custom box from Zippkits...cut some air holes ..mounted the engine and punched a hole in the bottom of the hull for the stuffing tube..
And applied some paint to the hull..
Prop will be ordered soon from Bob Austin..oh...and another header ordered
 

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john v

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you can use the hitec mg 645, I never had a problem with not enough torque with this servo. and use a heavy duty pushrod like arron lavgine sells
 

john v

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Hey Robert. Finally got you some pictures. I looked in the radio box and there is a 1/4 scale servo in there. You can use a 1/4 scale or a regular one. This is how I used to run my Cowl with the pipe exposed. Mine was a Heat Racer. this worked out pretty good for me. hopefully the pictures help.
 

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RobertDoak

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John...
Thank you very much for the pics....
And I see how the cowl was cut for "nessesary purposes"...is the radio box an Aeromarine product....and yes a hs645 servo may be my option...the box Aeromarine sent is too thin for a 1/4 scale hs755...and I bought a Zippkits custom box but with a 105° pipe its too tall...good looking boat btw....what motor was powering yours..?
Pic below are the stock box and a Zipp box
Thanks very much again John..
 

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